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New Maxx New Nitro Owner with ISSUES

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very si,ilar to Comfort's situation, about a year ago i blew my 1 month old 3.3 and sent it to traxxas. they rebuilt it (new piston,sleeve and con rod) no questions asked. When i got it back I did the traxxas breakin and then the heat cycle method just to be sure it was broke in well. I did both BEFORE any heavy bashing and even then i was easy on it and checked temps very often.
three months later i finally sealed the engine and it made a world of difference! So definately seal the engine Comfort it makes tuning easier and more reliable thus making a safer running engine. ;)
 
i actually just sealed my engine too... the pinch is CRAZY now..i almost replaced the piston and ring, but man! talk about pinch! lol i havent run it yet because I'm a very busy person.. but i can't wait to!
 
Thanks Rak.... I'll definitely seal it up down the road... fingers crossed it lasts that long...lol
 
c0mf0rt said:
Update... Traxxas is hooking me up with a new engine! Sooooo I will take my time breaking this new one in. I've picked up a temp gun. I'm a little afraid to seal in case I have any more issues. I don't want Traxxas blaming my seal job on any issues. I think I'll hold off sealing it for a month or so to make sure everything is kosher.

So any tips on what the temps should be? Do I let it warm up before each break in tank or get right to it? Any real drawback to running it rich? I REALLY don't want to cook another one by running it lean.
Click to expand...

Running rich isn't much better then running lean. It adds hydraulic pressure to the rod and bearings, stressing them. Sealing is vital, and has been needed on every traxxas mill I've ran. Rtv peals off as easy as it goes on, so it would be real easy for traxxas to never find out if you find a reason to send the motor back. If an engine has an air leak, it will never hold a tune or run correctly. That's why most people take the time to seal before ever installing an engine. It takes less than an hour, and eliminates a whole bag of worms.:)
 
+1 on everything Matt just typed out.

Since it's usually a good idea to let the thread lock setup on the engine mounts and whatnot overnight for a good bond, sealing an engine the night before running it is your best bet as well. That gives the RTV and threadlock time to cure.

Seal it, lube it, install it and think about how good you will do breaking it in the next day.

Patience is key when dealing with a new engine. Prepping it and break-in both require a lot of patience. ;)
 
doesn't it make more sense to when say your sealing off the carb slide, taking it off putting the silicone on letting it sit for 24hrs to cure, then reassembling the motor? aswell as all the other parts? or putting it on then quickly putting it back together (not tight... obviously.)? i guess i could of put this in the thread about sealing but meh, this will work too i believe.
 
I've always had good luck tightening everything down and letting it cure.

I know rolex loosely tightens things down like the backplate and lets the RTV setup, then tighten it down.

Not sure how you would do that with the carb neck since it fits so tight.
 
one thing i learned about the factory carb settings , is that dependind on where you live it might be to lean at 4 turn out the factory puts it...i live in Quebec ...and both my 3.3 run at 5 to 5 1/2 turns out on the HSN....so 4 turns out for break in is to lean for me ..

broke in my first one with factory setting , and it would overheat all the time ...my second one i broke in at almost 6 turns out on the HSN and all went well ...and at about 5 turns out , I'm tuned for performance
 
thats how i did the case plate was put the 4 screws loosely in and the next day tightened er down.. but now I'm having trouble finding my duratrax motors factory setting [hijack thread] :eek:
 

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