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New engine running wierdly?

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Did you let it warm up first?

Lean it back out to where it was. I hadn't realized you had adjusted it.

Just gradually give it throttle. Make sure it's warmed up a bit and be slow on the throttle. A quick throttle will kill it easier.
 
What do you mean. Is that why it died in the video, because I didnt give it throttle. Also, hiw fast should I drive it on te ground bearing in mind this is the 2nd tank, and I want to break it in properly.
 
You don't want to go past 1/2 throttle until you hit about tank 5. And don't hold it at half throttle. Just slowly easy up to half throttle and let off. Do this as a pattern. slowly up to half, slowly down...

Once you hit tank 5, you can do the same, but go to 3/4 throttle. Just don't stay at 3/4 throttle for very long time increments. Just ease it up and let off. I would do this for about 2-3 tanks.

Once you hit tank 10, you can start "driving it", but not to hard. Keep checking the temps. After tank 10, you should be able to start leaning it out a bit to gain some performance and better running consitency.

Once you hit 20 tanks, replace the glow plug. It's just a good practice to do after you've broken an engine in. That way, any loos particals from the engine that may have stuck to it won't come loose later. Besides, your running rich during breakin wich has a tendency to foul the plug anyway.
 
Hey guys. I really really appreciate the advice. I have done what you said and it is working great. i am sure its running rich, because a 75cc tank 80% full lasts about 8-10mins when driving it slowly. No way did I go pasthalf throttle, but I didint do exactly what you said. I didnt go up and down up and down. I have a 75m private road. I just drove it up and down that not going past full throttle. Sometimes I went really slow, other times I tried acceleration. I also drove it in circles, and skided etc.

I am pretty sure it is running rich. Not only because of that, but when I pinched the line it took a good 5 secs to stop, and because my air filter is a press down one, where you squese it in to stop the engine, it took a good 6 secs.

Also the acceleration is appauling, which I think is good for break in. Sometimes when i accelerate REALLY slowly, it bogs down before acceleration, but when i press half throttle on it accelerates like a bus HEHE. I am sure I will be able to sort that out after break in, and I think its just a really rich LSN.

I am going to run it for another 3 tanks like that as I have done 2 already. I am then going to do 5 with 3/4, then gradually start to lean it out and run it around 3/4 every tank or two leaning it abit, and then after around 18-20 tanks, I am gonna drive it like it has never driven before!! HEHE:breakdown

Cheers guys, and tell me what you think.

p.s - in tha video, was the sound of it idling abit fast or was it ok. It is idling the same speed as in the video but the head ISNT smoking. My doesn't no anything about rc, but he sais it seems its idling abit faster than my old car It isnt moving though

Josh
 
After you get a few tanks through it, then worry about slowing the idle down. If it isn't moving the wheels when you pick it up off the ground at idle, you should be ok. But the lower you can keep the idle, the less likely you are to wear out clutch shoes. But like I said, wait until after you get about 10 tanks through it before you start messing with settings. If it's running and staying running, keep it that way until your more comfortable with the sound, the temps and the overall feel of the engine.

In most cases, I can tune mine by ear. It just takes time.
 
After I have broken it in, do I improve acclereation by leaning the LSN. Also, after about 15 tanks when I start tp lean it out, how much should I lean it per tank, and should I not start messing with the acceleration until these 15 tanks have been run.


p.s - does it sound rich to you, and when it is all tuned out, how long should a tank last running 3/4-full throttle most of the time.

Josh
 
It's hard to say as to how long you get per tank. I don't have that particular engine on anything.

When your leaning things out, it's easy to go too lean and overheat. So, do it in small increments. 1/16 of a turn, drive it as you normally would for a few minutes, lean another 1/16 and so on until you get the desired temps/power out of it you want.

For the sake of longer engine life, it's best to run a little on the rich side. You may loose some performance, but it could be the difference between getting 6 gallons through before it needs replaced and 2 gallons.

It did sound rich, but like I said earlier, your breaking it in. As the parts wear, it will change it's sound some and become easier to keep running and to tune.

I suggest you find a good infrared temp monitor. Here in the states you can get them for around $30 at radioshack. YOu can find them all over on-line, but since I live here, it's easy to get stuff shipped.

The high and low speed needles work somewhat together. If one is way out of wack, so is the other. Normally, I tune the low needle until it passes the pinch test. Pinch the fuel line about 2 inches from the carb and it should start to sputter and die in around 3 seconds. As for the high speed, it's a little harder to judge. Get it so it opens up when you go full throttle. By open up, I mean it isn't gurgling and sputtering. Once you get it to open up nice and clean, back the high speed out about 1/16 or so to ensure that your on the rich side.

If you have it to the point that it runs now, it may be a good idea to screw both needles in and count the revolutions so you know a good starting point if your needles ever get out of wack from to much fiddling around.
 
I dont really want to do that just incase. you know what I mean. I think I will keep it how it is, because I doubt I willa adjust it.

Secondly, should you adjust the needles whent the engine is running?

p.s - when u say a full turn of the HSN, would that be if u put a small dot on the needle valve, and turn it all the way round until it goes back in the same place, much like a clock. Or is it half that.

Josh
 
That's a full turn.

I adjust while it's running. That's for an adjustment. If you are trying to screw the needles in so you know where they are at, I would do it with the engine off.

Any time anyone says "4 turns out" they mean 4 complete rotations of the needle. When I say 1/16 turn, that's about 3/4 of an hour on a clock.
 
Hi... what do you mean when you said

"Once you hit tank 10, you can start "driving it",

I have done a good 7 tanks, and I am now starting to drive it pretty fasy. (But its runnig really rich). I can tell that by firstly the amount of smoke coming from the exhaust, and secondly, when the tank had basically run out, and there was less fuel it was extremely fast.

Also, when I hold the air filter dow so there is no air, it doesn't actually stall (hehe)

I have also started it in 1 pull when it was cold for the past two tanks.

What do you think. Do you think I am breaking it in well, and how long should I continue breaking it in.

Josh
 
FYI, it's not a good idea to kill it by pinching the air filter down. Your best bet is to touch the flywheel with a screwdriver handle or plug the exhaust tip with a rag.

By pushing down on the air filter, it will suck crap in out of the air filter due to accelleration of the air coming in for the split second or two that you have it pinched. The other two ways are less likely to damage the engine. Although, plugging the exhaust tip causes the engine to flood, but it's better than sucking dirt into the engine.

You should be ok to start leaning it out some now. But don't go to lean. Unless your racing, there's no reason to eak out extra power by overleaning the engine.
 
The air filter thar comes with my truck is supposed to do that. It says it in the instruction manual. You press the top, and it completely closes.


Do you think as I start to lean it, it will still start in a few pulls. If it does start in a 1 or a few pulls, does than its well tuned?

Josh
 
I still wouldn't shut it down that way. If you sold something that was more likely to break to mis-use, wouldn't you reccomend to mis-use it?

If you plug the exhaust tip with your finger(when it's cold), then pull the starter a couple quick pulls, it should prime the engine. You can see the fuel go up the line when you do this. Once the fuel gets to the carb, give it one more soft jerk, then put the ignighter on for about 5 seconds, then try to start. Works well for me, almost every time I get it to fire on the 2nd or 3rd pull after priming it.

Well tuned is apparent when it runs well, gives good power, doesn't die often and run's around 220-260 degrees at the glow plug. Starting quickly isn't really sign of good tune, just a sign that the tune is good enough to get it to start.

I meant to ask about 20 posts ago if this is your first nitro experiance?
 
Well no. Last year I bought myself an RTR Cen Funfactor. Please do not remind me . Becuase it was RTR, I didnt have a clue how to fix it. I sold it within 2 months. Now I built a kit, so i know how to fix all the problems I come across.

Now I have run 8 tanks so should I gradually lean it tank by tank, or do you have any other ideas?

Also, can I drive it full throttle yet or could it still damage it?

Josh
 
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As for leaning it, after every carb adjustment, you should drive it normal for a couple minutes before you adjust again to make sure you know how it's acting. You can adjust it while it's running without a problem.

Once you hit 10-15 tanks, full throttle should be ok. But with any nitro engine, there is never really a point at which you can run full throttle for a long amount of time without sustaining engine damage.
 
Ok. But should I lean it a 1/16 or 1/8. And can i start leaning now. Also, what is the best way to tell if it is running just right in between rich nd lean which is perfect. Maybe alitlle on the rich side. What should the acceleration be like.

Also, should i turn the HSN and the LSN the same distance every time. The thing is that you can't turn the lsn when the engine is running, because it vibrates to much.
 
Well, you should never adjust more than one needle at a time anyway. It's to hard to gauge what is changing.

I'd start with the high speed needle, but only adjust one at a time. It's normally best to start adjusting with the high speed needle first since changes on it affect the low speed needle.

For high speed, you want the to be able to open up and hit high rpms without gurgling or overheating. 1/16 turns at a time until you get it to run WOT cleanly and cool. Once the high is taken care of, you can mess with the low.

With the low, you lean/richen it so it can sit for 10 seconds at idle, then take off with little or no hesitation/gurgling. If it gurgles, it's rich, if it takes off really quick, richen it until it gurgles after 20 seconds or so of idle, then lean 1/16 from that point and you should be pretty good.

I adjust mine according to temps, sound and smoke trail. There are days when I don't have much smoke, but I'm running 220 and have plenty of power. Then there are days when I have a ton of smoke and I'm running 240 and it seams to rich... it's not a difficult thing to deal with, just takes some patience.
 
I know. But I have only done 8 tanks, and you said dont WOT until 10-15. That means if I start to lean it now, I will have to test the full throttle which isnt great for the engine at the moment.

Josh
 
Is it bad tp hold WOT for a long time when the engine is runnng extremely rich. Also, I have read 2 different engine tuning things as well as yours. Some say adjust lsn first others hsn first. I guess its personal preference.

Also, I don't quite get what you mean when yo say:

"If it gurgles, it's rich, if it takes off really quick, richen it until it gurgles after 20 seconds or so of idle, then lean 1/16 from that point and you should be pretty good."


Josh
 
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