• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

new axial 32 spec 1s

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
G

gennesis7.7

Gone - bye bye.
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Hey guy's this is my first post and I just bought a new motor for my aftershock as the stock mach 26 died after a week. I looked through countless reviews and googled it alot and it seemed like a good deal and a great motor from the sounds of it. First question is it never came with a glow plug. Is this normal for one of these? I planned on running mccoy mc 59's after break in any way as it's getting cool out here and was told at my lhs that it would be fine. Second question is the collett that it comes with seems too long when I put the fly wheel on it only show's me about 1 or 2 threads I put the stock mach 26 collett on and it seems ok but I havent tightened it down yet the axial collett is about an eighth of an inch shorter than the losi, also do I loctite the nut and how much do I tighten it? Sorry for all the questions but this is my first engine install on my own. Thanx in advance for the answers guy's I really apreciate it.

Ritch
 
Some come with a glow plug and some don't. The fuel you want to use has a lot to do with which plug you can use. Personally, I try to run medium temp plugs (mccoy mc8) in my big blocks and hot plugs (mccoy mc59) in my small blocks. I use 25% nitro on both.

I typically just use the collet that works and aligns things best. So, use the one that gives you more threads on the shaft for the nut.

Locktite the nut. You want it very tight. Probably tighter than any bolt on the RC that you've ever messed with.

As for your choice on axial... I would have chose something different. I had an axial 28 S1 a few years back that I tried to run in my aftershock. After a gallon of fuel, it ran like crap, no power, horrible to try and tune... sold it for parts.

If you have better luck with the axial, you will more than likely need to upgrade your two speed to an LST* version. They use a better OWB/hub/two speed design that can take more stress. I ended up getting an LRP28 and by tank 7 of break-in, my two speed shelled out. Replaced it with an LST two speed and it's been fine for 4-5 gallons.
 
I'm running o'donnell 30 %, lol look's like I wasted $200 on a motor and 390 on a truck coulda just bought the savage xl and been done with it. Maybe I'll just break it in see if it runs ok sell it and get outa the sort all together. I give up!!!
 
Seal the engine before even attempting to start it. The sticky at the top of the nitro forum explains sealing in detail. No reason to be discouraged yet. Some axials run good, some don't. Yours may be just fine. Be sure to pre-heat the engine before starting it.
 
i just tried to put the clutch on and the stock losi collett is too short and fly wheel hits the upper part of the case axial collett is too long and only has 1 thread showing. the closest hobby shop is 4 hrs away and now i'm really upset
 
Well, shim the short collet out so it clears the case. This can be done using thin washers on the crank before you put the collet on.

Or, grind the back of the tall collet down very carefully. It's a PITA to hold onto and grind/file, but can be done. I've done it in the past, just try to not grind it crooked.

I know this is late advice, but it's always a good idea to have a shim kit laying around:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNT03&P=ML

Comes with pretty much everything you need to get the wrong parts to fit right. Shims for the flywheel collet, shims for the bell bearings, bolts and stand offs to deal with it as well.
 
Last edited:
I'll call em on monday and see if they have a shim kit in stock. I was also just thinkin and wouldn't it void any warranty I have if I take the motor apart and seal it? If it does void the warranty I think I will just use the stock losi collett and file away some of the material on the case to clearance the fly wheel. it just touches and the material I would have to remove would be minimal.
 
Last edited:
got it together and tried to break it in fired once then died. went to restart it and the little plastic part the starter rope ties around broke. this motor has way too much comression so i made a new peice outa metal. Would it be a good idea to loosen the glow plug a little when starting then tighten it up? I have never had to do this b 4 and it seems weird to me.
 
gennesis7.7 said:
got it together and tried to break it in fired once then died. went to restart it and the little plastic part the starter rope ties around broke. this motor has way too much comression so i made a new peice outa metal. Would it be a good idea to loosen the glow plug a little when starting then tighten it up? I have never had to do this b 4 and it seems weird to me.
Click to expand...

you could loosen the plug a bit ....but i suggest heating the engine up with a hair dryer or a heat gun....i used a hair dryer on my 3.3 ....worked good
 
i pre heated it and still had to loosen the glow plug, i have blisters on my fingers. this thing is a beast.
 
well boy's this'll be my last post. I got it all broke in and was doing some tuning tonite and was going very good temps were hovering rite around 235 to 240 I ran it down a long straight stretch turned around and was making my way back and clipped a rock flipped it and landed rite on the cooling head and died so i put it to b.d.c and let it cool down for about 20 minutes refueled it and tried to start it and the pull cord wouldn't budge. figuring it was the compression i loosened the glow plug and still no budge. I exploded the pull starter but wasn't too broke up about it as I have a roto start comming for it. so i figured i would do some inspection, took the pipe off and looked in the exhaust port all ok. took the engine outa the truck held it and tried to turn the flywheel with a pair f pliers was very hard to turn got 180 degrees and loosened up spun it again and tightened up and i could feel a grinding so i got it to where it was loose took the head off and the back plate pulled the sleeve and piston lookes perfect no marks other than the top edge where it is a little discoloured. removed the crank and no noticable marks all looks good, look in the case and the bottom side between the bearings is all gouged. my question is: When I landed on the head did
I bend the case?
 
Last edited:
You more than likely cracked the case. Did you take it off the engine mount so you can see if there's a crack behind the mount under the mounting flanges?
 
Thanx for replying Olds, no the case isnt cracked. When I removed the back plate the one way came out with the back plate and i noticed a peice of aluminum jammed inbetween the groove and backplate looked to be a peice of casting so I removed it resealed it and turned over with a wrench and no problems at all. I am thinking it was knocked loose during the roll over and I obviously missed it during the first inspection. Just waiting for the rotostart to come in saturday morning so i will put it back in the truck and refire it get it up to temp and see what happen's
 
well got it up and running again ran about 10 tanks through it beginning of tank is around 235 middle is around 245 250 and bottom is 265 to 270ish and still no bottom end. i rev it up to about a quarter throttle b 4 it starts moving half it takes off good top end is kerazy but wont lift the wheels off the ground i played with the lsn a little but it seems like its starving for fuel if i move it at all. Oh yea and my second losi HT pipe header cracked in the exact same place. thinkin they have a bad batch but i caught it b 4 it did n e damage. Have the stock losi pipe on it could that b why the no low end power?
 
It could be. Personally, I don't care for axial... but that's a whole other story.

With that in mind, the only experience I have with an axial wasn't a good one, so I didn't mess with it much to get it "dialed in", because it wouldn't. Ran stupid hot, acted like yours with no low end and the tuning needles seemed to only flood it or make it run hot. In either case, power was minimal. I gave up after about 1.5 gallons. It was an axial 28S1.
 
turned out I had to go about a half turn in b 4 it would start to pick up still lots of blue so tomorrow I am goint to tune some more. I hear ya on the hot thing I am close to 265 to 280 now, tho it runs perfect on top end rite now, I can beat my buddies savage xl with ease I actually pushed him on top end till the wheels got together what a tumble that was. So I am a little happier with the performance now and it seems the more I run it the more power she has. I'm not so sure she's broke in all the way yet. I was wondering what engine you suggest Old's? I think I'm gonna send something to extreme R/C mods this winter gonna do it all pipe and everything, I really like the picco's but is a .28 gonna be able to keep up to my buddies XL?
 
If your buddies XL has the stock engine... then yes. The picco should smoke it.

I have in the past ran weaker engines in favor of keeping the drive train working as that used to be a big issue with savage's, but with the power engines put out these days, HPI had to step up their game on gear/diff design and materials.

I'm running an LRP28S3 in mine at the moment, but it's giving me fits. I have a second one in my aftershock and it runs like a top. I think I have a leaky bearing on the savage LRP, which should be coming in the mail this week. If not... it will be a parts engine (much to my dismay and wallet), I have a new picco 28 sitting in the box just begging to be broken in. ;)

If this LRP keeps giving me a headache, I may try a different carb before I give up on it. $200 is too much cash to ignore on an engine with less than 3 gallons on it.
 

RC Builds

Back
Top