Need CVD Input PLEASE!

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Ok, I want to know who all the manufacturers are of CVD's, otherwise known as DriveShafts, for the Inferno 7.5.

So fart, I have found the centers and the sides by MIP.

I'm thinking though that there are other choices for the Kyosho 7.5.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Also, if anyone has any input as to what is being used at the tracks that would be GREAT!

Thanks again,
Chris

 

[1meathead]

we are using the K3 ones and no prob. yet. Other than that and maybe the HB pro ones I don't know of any that work but I didn't look yet

 

[militarymaxx]

I think Dynamite make CVD's also but have heard negative things about them. Other than that, MIP seems to be the leader in CVD's. Good luck with the search.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Are the K 3's full CVD's all the way around?

 

[Krautwagen]

I do not trust MIP on monster trucks, but they seem to handle the lighter vehicles just fine.

I ran Dynamite CVD's on my .21 Maxx with no problems at all. A bit heavy though (made to take the abuse).

 

[1meathead]

Yes the K3 has full CVD's

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Ok - i just orderred a complete set of the K3 Universals - I just hope I dont have to order anything else to make them work on the MP 7.5 setup.

Thanks for the input!!!

 

[dgrobe2112]

Christian.. you should have no problem with the universals.. i actually like them better than the CVD's i had on the car.. the center CVD, from the center diff.. to the front and rears.. got pretty sloppy pretty quick.. but the MIP centers work great..

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Thanks for the info!

I'm hoping they hold up well. I'm thinking of buying another buggy for launching purposes, while only running my revised Inferno on the track.

 

[uDi_MP7.5]

yeah, the Kanai's run universals, not CVD's.

The universals are superior, drop it next to a CVD on any other buggy and compare how beefy the Kyosho uni is compared.

They are real smooth, you never have to touch them, and yeah they have been great to me.

Just something to note - the front universals from the K2/K3 are made for the different front end geometry of those two kits and are a few mm longer, so if you have the front end of a Sports/Regular/K1 - make sure the K3's front uni's aren't too long before you drive. They should be fine, but just something to check.

 

[Error401]

I noticed that there were 2 sets of upper arms in the K3 kit. Are the unused set (different that what was used) the reason for the geometry difference?