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my truck is only 2WD!

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cozea

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ok so i was driving in a field that had packed snow on it. and somehow i manageed to strip a spur gear. so i took it home. and then i had to wait 2 days to get a new one. today. and i go out to run it. and i noticed that at any speed. but mostly when i accelerate it makes a clicking sound. and then i find some slippery spots on the road and i noticed only my front two wheels had any power. and every once in a while the rear wheels grab for like 1/2 a second. the the front just spinout. I'm thinking thnat maybe there is somthing wrong with the diff. but maybe it could be the tranny. what do you think could be the problem? how could u fix it? oh and when i lift the truck off the ground and give it a quick rev. all the wheels turn. but not on the ground.
 
did u break ether of your rear CVD's or your mai rear one

you could have also stripped your diff out
 
i had this same problem with my t-maxx.. and it was my rear diff. the big metal gear was worn down on top of the teeth. so i ordered a RRP steel diff gear set and wala it was fixed.

later
 
Aside from the areas mentioned, I suggest checking to see that the axles are all properly fixed to their respective differentials and gear boxes. The ends of those half shafts have set screws. If those set screws fall out, the drive train will basically free wheel without actually driving anything.
 
Originally posted by SkyMaxx
Aside from the areas mentioned, I suggest checking to see that the axles are all properly fixed to their respective differentials and gear boxes. The ends of those half shafts have set screws. If those set screws fall out, the drive train will basically free wheel without actually driving anything.
Click to expand...

i noticed on my t-maxx that the yoke connected to my rear diff was cracked in half. i replaced it now, but would that cause any problems?

later
 
If the yoke connection was cracked in half, that would also lead to some slippage in the drive train. You would certainly expect things to not work as they should. Good thing you caught that and replaced it.
 
Do a search on shimming of diffs when and if you work on it. It will make it last a lot longer if the gear mesh inside the diff is set better than stock. I have over a gallon on my diffs with an OS 21 RG conversion. I still don't have the obligitory diff click.

Also, you may want to look into maximizer or kippster aluminum diff cups. These help the diffs last much longer as well.
 
Originally posted by olds97_lss
Do a search on shimming of diffs when and if you work on it. It will make it last a lot longer if the gear mesh inside the diff is set better than stock. I have over a gallon on my diffs with an OS 21 RG conversion. I still don't have the obligitory diff click.

Also, you may want to look into maximizer or kippster aluminum diff cups. These help the diffs last much longer as well.
Click to expand...

If u use the RRP steel diff kit, it says not to use any shims until u run a gallon or so through the new diff. then it says to shim it up and lube it.

later
 
yeah i did this too i broke the rear stub axcles so the front weels got all the power it was actualy pretty cool with all the power to the front i could actualy smoke the tiers on my friends driveway but when i took it on his yard it dug holes and tore it up (his mom had a fit);) but after about 15 min. i broke the front one too so i had to stop the maddnes.:sneaky:
 
Hey if your not fixed yet try your "diff cup" that is what i had on mine. The 4 little screws that attach the ring gear to the cup broke but would still catch when the wheels were off the ground. Its pretty cheap and easy to fix and if you dont want it to happen again and have a lttle extra money get a kipster diff cupkit , it will come with an aluminium cup and larger stronger screws.
 
under high loads the plastic housing flexes - pushing the pinion gear away from the ring gear, and it skips a tooth eventually causin complete failure. it sounds as if you have ground some/all of the teeth down and when under no load it can spin the ring gear - which is why 4wd appears to work in the air - but as soon as load is applied the pinion skips over, grinding itself more, making a popping or clicking noise. take it out now and try to save what you can. anytime you hear a popping sound its time to get intimate with your diffs. usually accompanied by a loss of 4wd or acceleration.

new pinion/spur is like 10$ i believe, buy a few spares. if you are racing id recommend checking them before every race.

you can prolong the life by using shims much in the way they do with 1:1 diffs in real cars. when i set up my diffs it took a few hours (1/8 buggy diffs).

basically you take the housing, install the ring gear on the diff carrier, then the bearings and the outdrives. place into the housing and add shims to both sides until you get almost no slop, and just a tick of left-right movement. then move the shims you placed between the bearings and the ring gear diff carrier so the ring gear will be as close as possible to the pinion.

install pinion and bearingsin the housing. check for free rotation of pinion, if binding move ring gear away from pinion by moving shims. once you have free movement of pinion input, add shims in between the pinion and first bearing. move the pinion as far up against the ring gear as possible with free movement. you should be able to move the ring gear/diff case back and forth just a tick, the pinion should move back and forth just a click and it should all spin freely through out the range of movement. without all too much slop. this takes forever since its a trial n error process, and may not be worth doing for a 10$ gearset but my buggy diffs are expensive.

are you running the 2.5 still? or other motor
 
What you might want to try to save money and headache down the road, is to get aluminum diff cases and maximizer or kippster diff cups. The alluminum doesn't flex like plastic, so when you shim it right, it stays that way permanently.

I run integy diff cases with maxximizer diff cups that have the modified stock ring gear. I have almost 2 gallons of 21 torque ran through these and my gears still look and sound like new. I also replaced all the bearings in the diffs with boca green seals.

1 gallon was run with OS 21 RG at 1.8hp. The second gallon was run with an Omega sport 21 that has 2.4hp.

Just food for thought if you don't like messing with the diffs every other weekend. I sure don't.
 
also, try this. have u taken off the tires yet? mine did the same thing, and what happened was that the wheel hex stripped the hex in the wheel, so it just spun the driveshaft without spinning the tires due to the diff.
 
also your driveshafts could be binding. i didnt think of that.

my MIP pins started walking out a little on one of the tires and was rubbing the knuckle, this was lucky as I've seen those pins shoot through most anything.

i dont know if you have mips or not but this is a constant concern for me.
 
ya i have. thanks. but I'm waiting for my sirio. so i can try it out. i have no engine.
 

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