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My onslot of Savage questions before my build.

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I never saw the need for a tank guard, try digital liquid's quick and easy tank mod with some world famous FastEddy Servo Tape. Reverse the upper shock screws so the threads are facing the rear. Instead of the stock plastic bulkhead braces, use a pair of the engine mount braces. For durability, swap out the front outdrive cup from the transmission and purchase the dual disk brake set. Use the hub from the brake set and swap it out for the front outdrive cup. You'll end up with an extra set of disks and pads when the stock ones wear out. The brake hub is much harder than the front outdrive cup and will not wear out over time. There is a slight weight penalty for this swap. If you want to spend the duckets, MIP center CVDs are a nice upgrade. If you do go with the CVDs, use heat shrink tubing over the ends to keep the drive pins from popping out.

The steering racks may still use bronze bushings, you can use standard 1/8 scale steering bearings size 6 x 10 x 3.



Digital liquid's tank mod

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/99/savage-fuel-tank-protector/

Use these part #86063

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLE3&P=ML

instead of these part #85045-6

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLC2&P=7

Take the brake hub from this #87150

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=87150&FVPROFIL=++

and use instead of this #86082

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=86082&FVPROFIL=++

MIP center CVDs part #MIP1541
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFCC2&P=7
 
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I can't believe the amount of slop in the diffs that the factory pre-built. I need to go get another shim kit. Looks like ill need to shim all the shafts in the trany as well.
 
only one question, wht the heck is shimming the gears :ponder2:
stupid question maybe but i havent figured that much out yet O.o
 
There is an amount of front to back play in the gear shafts. Using small washers “Shims” will reduce this play and make your setup stronger and less likely to wear out as quickly.
 
I would get the radio box for the X and use it instead of the stock box.

If you want to go hardcore, get some maximizer diff cups, MIP CVD's all over and alum bulks.
 
FastEddy said:
I can't believe the amount of slop in the diffs that the factory pre-built. I need to go get another shim kit. Looks like ill need to shim all the shafts in the trany as well.
Click to expand...

My trans has some front to back slop in it and I never shimmed it. It has over 10 gallons on it and its still looking like new inside. I never shimmed my diffs either and the only problem I have experienced with the diffs was related to the plastic diff cups. The cross pins will wear a groove into the cups and ruin the gear alignment. Aluminum diff cups will help with that problem.

I think the SS 4.6 Kit has the old style second gear setup? You should consider replacing that with the heavy duty second gear assembly.
 
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Thats what makes this hobby so great. A guy that likes to make sure everything is as perfect as it can be will have as much fun as someone who wants to run their rig the way it comes from the factory.

I'm anal about my equipment and strive to keep it better then new at all times. Is one way right or wrong? No, just different standards as to what your comfortable running.

Thanks for the tip on the 2nd gear. Ill look up the part numbers in the kit and see what it came with. If its old style, Ill change it out.
 
I can't see it hurting. HD is always better... I've only ever had issues with that gear once. I replaced it with a 3rd or 1st edition second gear about 8 gallons ago...

Then again, I was running a tame engine then. Now with the SH 28, I may have problems since I didn't go HD.
 
i've been running the stock diff cups with no shimming for over 4 years now (yes I've changed the cups and done the 4 spider gear mod ) with no issues other then the stock gear box housing warping under extreme abuse causing the ring and pinion gear to missalign. since I replaced the stock plastic with an aluminum gearbox front & rear I've had no issues with the diffs period only the bearings that they ride on just make sure you keep them cleaned and lubed.

Other then that everyone has mentioned all the relevent mods although I don't remember seeing the ofna linkage mod this makes the truck much more responsive to throttle input.

here's a pic of the gear box
sav1011_2p.jpg
 
Congrats FastEddy :). I mentioed most of my hangups in my thread, but post if you have specific trouble - its still pretty fresh in my mind. Although, I'm a n00b, so not sure how much help I'll be.

Definitely make sure your clutchbell doesn't bind after you tighten that screw down. And tighten the nut that holds in the flywheel as much as you can. Mine already started slipping. What else did I screw up.... the brakes screws should be as tight as possible to remove play in the brake when you connect it to the servo. Follow the guidelines for tightening up the slipper clutch.

What is wrong with phillips screws?
 
The heads on Phillips screws will strip out after using them a few times. Allen heads rarely strip if you use a good wrench. The racers edge screw set @ $20? Is a great addition.

Here is a wonderful tool to keep in your box. Worth its weight in gold.
Ofna Flywheel Wrench
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDV1&P=7
 
I'm glad I'm reading this thread,For some reason i strip allen's out,i don't know if it's just me or what.Ill have to pickup the racers edge set,thanks for the tip ed.
 
FastEddy said:
Or get better wrenches.
Click to expand...
I used to think my problems were the screws. I'm leaning on getting a better set of wrenches myself.
 
Hey btw FastEddy, did you mean DarkEnergy and not DarkForce? I'm new to the site and just built the ss so it would kinda make sense... :P If so then HAHA....

I'm having a hella hard time getting mine tuned BUT LOVING EVERY SECOND. Enjoy.
 

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