my mt2 needs work anyone want to help?

[FREEATLAST]

ok lets see
#1- running(lol) all stock. and thats cool for now.
#2- sterring ant what it used to be. dont know why??????
#3- awhile ago i put engine saver filter on (i think that was a good idea) and in line fule filter.thought caused air leak so new line no filter and now runs good (well mostly)
#4- having probs with either carb or servo not poss.. when i do get it running runs strong no lag in response real punchy. but some times when brake applyed arm goes too far back and waaaaa-waaaa-waaaa ka-plunk stall. oooo make me mad!!!!!!!!!!
#5- moved to massachusetts from southern cali. what should i do as far as setting in new(wet,cold,higher enviroment). it does make a diffrence right?
#6- anything that i did not cover that comes to mind fell free to put in 2cents:
thanx in advance
free but confused(well i think i am)
:shrug: :help: :constipat

 

[robriguez]

well not to be a ass but punctuation and full sentences help us to help you much easier.

But in regards to your problems...

1) The MT2 is a pretty good ride stock. You will prolly have to watch the front turnbuckles as they tend to break easy if you crash.
2) I'm assuming you are changing out your receiver batteries after every run? Most Alkaline batteries are only good for about 20-30 min or run time before they are too weak. If you ARE using fresh batteries and steering is still sluggish or slower than usual check to make sure nothing is binding. Turn everything off, disconnect the steering from the server and turn the wheels back and forth. They should move VERY freely. There should be no binding what-so-ever in the movement from full right to full left. If you had gotten your server wet it could be that its starting to die on you.
3) Motor Savers filters work great. In Line fuel finters are a good idea of you are running in dusty environments and are not carefull to keep dirt out of your gas tank. I dont run in line fuel filters on any of my rides and I have never gotten any grit inth etank at all.
4) I believe the MT2 uses the same linkage design as the NMT and in my experience its crap. The arm thatattaches to the rotary carb kept getting loose causing the openeing to the carb to rotate a bit. When I would apply the brake it would actually CLOSE the carb completely. Check to make sure all connections are tight. Take your air filter off and while its NOT running, hit the brakes fully. Even withfull brakes your carb should remain open about 2-3mm.
5) Humidity and elevation do play a part in the tuning of your engine. I never remember if you should run richer or leaner.. I use a temp guage (they can usually be picked up for under $40 at your LHS) and tune so that my temps are no higher than 250 even under heaving abuse.
6) Only some suggested hopups. As time and money permit I would suggest getting alum shock towers, alum or TI turnbuckles, Alum shocks, stiffer springs, alum brake disk, a hump pack (rechargable battery pack...I recommend nothing less than 1100Mah), better servos. You could prolly buy all of that for about $200 and it will help enhance the performance AND make the truck much more reliable and fun.

 

[littlidevil]

what about the servo horns for the throttle ,,do you know of a better way of seting it up ........i seem to have the problem that when it is on to tight (on the servo)it doesn't seem to come back to its normal way(the 2 pieces of plastic dont come back in line with one and the other )after i put the breaks on,,,,,,,,, :thumbup:

 

[olds97_lss]

I know this is an old thread, but I used OFNA slider's on a normal servo horn. I also used a ball cup on the throttle arm on the carb.

With a few collars and springs, it works a lot better and smoother than what was on my nmt stock. It's not the MT2, but I'm pretty certain it's close to the same.