My first post Nitro Revo 2.5 5310

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New2Nitros

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Hello everyone. My very first hope not to be my last post. From what I've seen you have great knowledgable people here so I joined. I'm a soon to be hybrid electric and nitro lover. I hear all the arguments for both and think they both have great uses. I only know electric right now and I'm fresh back into RC again. Back when I ran we didn't have LiPo or brushless and I've learned alot and I'm loving the new tech! I remember having to use diff stiffness of springs to get more low end torque for brushed motors lol.

So now it's time to get into the smell and sounds of nitro finally. I got an amazing deal on Ebay with a older Revo that is in amazing shape BUT has not run in years. I'm thinking maybe ill need a new motor but at the price i paid WHO CARES :p. ill even upgrade to 3.3 maybe.

My questions are not on tuning, there are countless YouTube vids for that. My question are on what do you experienced vets think my chances are of reviving a motor that was broken in properly many years ago then put up for years. And prob didnt use an after oil of sorts. I love discussions so whatever you got for me to read I'd love to see it.
I may even buy a lesser model new nitro to get the feel for operation and maintenance then come back to this as an engine rebuild/ upgrade project ;)
 

hamz9561

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Like you said, you got a great deal on it. Run the snot out of it and when the engine dies, replace it with something better.
 

mayrider

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as long as the bearing feel smooth and the piston gets snug at the end of its stroke it will more than likely run. a quick tear down and clean up wouldn't hurt then when reassembling seal it up. it may not last long but it would be good to cut your teeth on as far tuning.
 

BillyC74

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I think you have a really good chance it will run fine. It depends on how it was stored. You said it was in great shape so it was probably stored well, so you're probably good to go.
 

Childresshunt

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if i knew it had sat for that long i would do a complete tear down and make sure internals arnt rusty, oil everything up and clean if needed, then put back together and try and crank it up after checking all your other servo's and what knot of coarse. But try and get her running and if you do run the crap out of it as long as you can

---------- Post added at 2:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:33 PM ----------

My first t maxx had sat on a shelf 4 2 years with no after run oil. It had a lil rust and the bearings were real stiff but it loosened up and ended up lasting around 4 gallons
 

sur3fir3

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Whenever receiving a used vehicle I do a complete teardown, clean, lube, and rebuild. If you see anything too worn replace it. Otherwise if it looks on the up and up run it. I would get a bearing kit from fast eddy (save the old ones if they still move decently and you can use them in case of emergency), and replace all the bearings whether they look good or not since it sat so long. I would also disassemble the engine and give it some TLC. The time you spend up front doing this will save you tons of time later.
 
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New2Nitros

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I think you have a really good chance it will run fine. It depends on how it was stored. You said it was in great shape so it was probably stored well, so you're probably good to go.
Thank you for the vote of confidence. I hope it does work. I was honestly thinking new engine time but then again i know nothing of nitro >.<
 

Childresshunt

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non crimen yea 4 2 years thats double my life and one suuuuuupppppppeeeeeeerrrrr old t maxx haha

and i think you have a good chance of getting it running also if the truck is in good shape and looks well taken care of likes are the engine will run at least for a bit
 

New2Nitros

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Yea Childress it's super crazy ultra clean. Can't believe I stole it from him like this but, I've yet to receive it yet so let's do a wait and see ;). At the very least all the parts , shocks ect look like new. Just wish this was not my first nitro experience. I should honestly get a cheaper one new , learn about nitro and come back to this amazing Revo and attempt a total clean up like one person mentioned. Sur3fir3 was the one with the good post.
 
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Childresshunt

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at least you got it cheap no matter how it shows up. but i started off with a used rc car as my first. I bought one with a blown motor. I put a new one on and bought a 70 dollar motor so it didnt make a whole lot of diff if i blew it. I ended up catching on quickly and the cheap motor went for 3 gallons which isnt much but i was learning how to tune
 

New2Nitros

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Texas
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Great idea with the $70 Engine

I like your style Childress. I'm just worried that since I know nothing at all about nitro that I might not be as quick as you >,< If I start to run into trouble Ill just get a cheap engine like you did :)
 

hulkmaxx

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Just keep it running on the rich side and keep the temps good you will be fine. It does take some time to get the hang of tuning a nitro rig. I think in like 15 years I only have blowed one engine due to tuning it to lean.
 

Childresshunt

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i caught on pretty quick but I'm still not super good at tuning or anything I'm still learning stuff but with a temp gauge and a tuning screw driver i can get it tuned it might take a lil longer than alot of people but i get it done and so will you just read all you can about tuning watch videos just w.e to familiarize yourself with it.
 

New2Nitros

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Well ty everyone for your help and encouragement. Some great info and advice in these forums.
 

Nitro Nerd

Gone - bye bye.
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Welcome to the world of nitro! Yeah, it's not that difficult once you get the feel for it. I've owned/tuned nine different engines and one thing I've found is that each one is different. Some additional tips for you:

1. I know the general rule of thumb is to err on it being "slightly rich", but I've seen engines that were so rich they were using only 50-70% of its peak performance. Personally, I'd rather have an engine that is optimized for three years then one always running at 70% for 5 years - but that is just me.

2. If an engine is too lean, you'll know. Listen carefully how the RPMs rise and drop. If it cuts either during acceleration or deceleration, then its too lean.

3. Temps are important, but not the end all. As others have noted, go by performance (what you see and hear). Sometimes engines need to be lean to be mean. As an example, I have a Werks B6 that runs great 225-230. However, my O.S. .25XZ won't really scream its tits off until it's in the 265-270 range.

4. Tune the engine on the environment in which you will run. Example: If you tune it on the street, then run it on grass, you're going to get different results (in this case it will run much hotter and leaner on grass--so keep an eye on things like that).

5. Wait until it's at operating temps before tuning (i.e. run it for 1/3 of a tank or so at high RPMS) then begin. Some engines take longer...and if you hurry to tune, you'll just be fighting the engine.

6. Never be afraid to "start over" by setting the needles to factory settings. If you are unsure just go flush on each needle and start from there.

7. Finally, I see you are in Texas (as am I). This time of year glow plugs make a huge difference. Go with a cold plug and you'll see a world of difference. ;-)

Good luck, just know there is a learning curve...but it's oh so worth it. Ha ha!
 

Childresshunt

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i agree with not tuning to an exact temp that is like fido spinnin in circles after his tail when he is never gonna catch it. Id Say as long as you dont run over 280 your should be fine if temp his 300 shut it down and richen up although I've found when a motor gets up to 300 the glow plug is either gonna be fried or last a short amount of time after than
 

Nitro Nerd

Gone - bye bye.
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You are dead on about glow plugs, in fact they are a tell-tale for how your engine is tuned. For the OP, as you become more astute with tuning your engine, you can learn how to "read" your glow plug for its discoloration types that will give you an idea if you are too rich or lean. The least you to need to know about it is check your plug after it's fairly new. You'll want a fairly shiny coil that has not been distorted and the housing should be kind of a silvery/gray color. If the coil is melted onto the housing, and the housing is a burnt gray color, you're too lean. If the coil is dark and you see deposits of dried fuel around the housing, then it is too rich. Once again, at least from my experience, you'll get your best "readings" from a new plug. I hope this helps some.
 

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