MT2 18SS built.... but some problems...

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cbohl51

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Aight....


got the thing finished up yesterday..... took a lot longer than i expected.

Ran it through two tanks at idle no problem.

Was trying to continue with break in which requires you drive the car at low to medium throttle for 3-4 tanks.

I put the truck on the ground, give it some gas, it goes no where. Engine revs, car doesn't move.

I pick the car up, give it gas, wheels spin just fine...

put it back on the ground, doesn't move.


I'm pretty new to gas, so i'm not sure where to begin with this. My friend just built a savage 4.6 along with me, and he is having the same problems as well.

I made sure the clutch was on right, and it is.

Could it be the slipper clutch? Or could it be the engine isn't tuned?

I"m really lost on this, and if anyone could please point me in the correct direction it would be great appreciated. :cheers:
 
Tighten the slipper clutch all the way, then back it off 1/2 turn. If the engine revs, turns the wheels off the ground, but won't turn them on the ground, that's most likely the problem.
Let us know.
 
thats what my first thought was, but my friend swore it was the engine not being tuned... which in all reality, makes no sense. :)

I'll give that a shot when i get a chance, and let you know how it turned out.

Thanks!
 
If the engine revs, it's not a tuning issue.
The springs for the clutch shoes, if you put them in wrong, will engage the clutch ALL the time, even at idle, so that's not the problem.
Next would be the slipper. It's meant to slip only to absorbe the shock through the drive train when landing. If it slips when you throttle it, the friction will melt it.
 
i know i got the shoes and springs on right, i double checked them w/ the installation diagrams.


I know w/ the slipper clutch, i had loosened it up a bunch because it warned that if it was too tight it could damage the engine... so i guess i gotta rip apart everything, and tighten the slipper.

:p
 
Tuning has nothing to do with the turning of the r/c's wheels. Check your slipper clutch as suggested by the others.
 
You say the engine revs, does it rev well?

If you're a newbie to nitro it's possible the engine is so rich it isn't revving at all cleanly, and this, coupled with the increased load of the vehicle, will prevent it pulling away.

So can easily tell if it's the slipper clutch. Does that spug gear turn whilst you're revving your car trying to accelerate? If the spur turns but your car isn't moving it's the slipper (or worse). If the spur isn't turning it could just be you're running very rich or it could be the clutch.

Hope that helps.
 
welp, i worked on it today.

it was the slipper clutch.

I had it waaay too loose.


Yea, the engine is running pig rich, but according to the hobby shop and hpi, for break in, its suppose to be super rich.

I've gone threw 7 tanks.... after 8 its suppose to be broken in.

Hopin its gonna be nice out this week so i can romp on it. :)


Thanks guys for your help.
 
After 8, you can start leaning it, but I highly doubt it will be fully broken in. I haven't had an engine yet that I was getting full power out of under 1/2 gallon. One of my engines was mildly tempermental until I hit a gallon, then it became a screamer and has been for 4 gallons straight.
 
True, what Olds said. They are rarely at their peak till they've had a gallon.
After the initial break in, I don't tune them all at once. I tune a little for each tank after break in, (if it's a 4 or 6 tank break in) and don't let them run for performance tuning till about tank 10 or 12.
Patience during breaking in is the secret to a reliable, long lasting engine.
 
cool beans..

thanks for the tips...


figure for each tank after break in, i'll lean it about 1/8th of a turn...
 
cbohl51 is the mt2 ss pretty sweet i am getting mine in the next couple weeks. was there anything hard about it.. ill make sure i remeber to tighten the slipper clutch.

thomas
 
^^ heh.... so far its okay... just cuz the engine isn't running at top notch, so its sorta sluggish... i'll have it running pretty quick by the end of the week hopefully.


As far as building goes... the hardest park for me was putting the regular clutch together that engages the bellhousing...there are these little springs that fit in a certain way, and it took me a while to get it on right.

Other than that, its pretty straight forward... if you've built an r/c car/truck before.

If you get your kit and have any specific ?'s or probs, feel free to hit me up. :)
 
I was able to build most of mine in about two days. The SS is very fast once broken in.
If the main drive turns with the car on the ground, but it will not pull then it is most likely the slipper clutch. It is difficult to get it threaded properly and I had to tighten it very tight to match what the book said to do.
 
i was working on mine after school for 2-3 hours a day....


i agree... that nut was hard to get started on the threads...

but i've got mine about 1/2 turn out if not less... its running great, and almost broken in.
 
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