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more problems with my revo

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dude i could never get through all this without your assistance....i really appreciate it...
ill dig into the a arms when i get home from work tommorow....
I've had ball fixin this damn thing...lmao....
 
You may have to loosen the four bolts that are circled in red also. And the stock shoes are supposed to be put on for leading edge engagement. If you let them drag they will not grab well. The 3 shoe clutch in Old's picture is correct for a 3 shoe, but a stock 2 shoe should be going the opposite way.
 
2revo1maxx said:
And the stock shoes are supposed to be put on for leading edge engagement. If you let them drag they will not grab well. The 3 shoe clutch in Old's picture is correct for a 3 shoe, but a stock 2 shoe should be going the opposite way.
Click to expand...

Supposed to be that way? To be honest, I never noticed much of an improvement when I flipped them. All that did was deform them more. Tried it many moons ago when I had a t-maxx.

The best option is to move the trans ahead 1/4" (requires mod'ing the chassis a bit, at least mine did when I had a revo) and installing a complete 1/8 clutch/flywheel/bell setup. May do that to my slayer if my clutch dies. Although, I do have a couple spares from things I've bought over the years...

This is how far I had to move mine:
2006-0522-RevoSavageClutchMoveTrans.jpg


I slotted the trans bolt holes a bit and ground a bit off the chassis so the brake parts would clear and the trans would move forward. I think the brakes cleared, but the trans hit the chassis. Once I had it lined up, I drilled a couple 3mm holes through the chassis and through the flanges on the trans so I could key the trans to the chassis more solidly with a nut and bolt:
2006-0526-RevoSavageClutchTransBottom.jpg


I was using an OFNA bell and HPI savage 3-shoe teflon shoes/springs and flywheel. Never had a clutch problem again after that. Regardless which engine I ran. On the small blocks, I had to get a little spacer to extend the crank, but it worked out really well.
 
If you look at the first photo, you will see that the 1/8 setup I had on hand would not fit without moving something (miss-aligned spur/cb, spur touching the bell housing). The trans was the easiest.
 
thanks for pics re:clutch spring

olds97_lss said:
On the last coil on each end, take a pair of side cutters and separate the coil from the spring. This will give you one coil on each end to make a hook. Then open one coil a bit so you can get it hooked on the other end. Then gently crimp both so they don't get disconnected again.

When I put the spring back on the shoes, I usually put it so the coil isn't at a gap between the shoes. Usually I put it near one of the pivot pins.

Steps:
1) Pry coil away from the end a bit on each end

2) Open one of the coils a bit

3) Hook the coils together

4) Crimp the coils a bit so they don't come apart

5) Install on one shoe, then gently put the coil in the trough of the second shoe and pry a bit to get them both in the coil.

6) Line up the coil so connection is not not on a gap

7) Make sure to install the shoes on the flywheel so the end of the shoe that makes contact with the bell is the trailing end.

Sorry, that's the only "installed" clutch photo I have. It's a 3 shoe on my aftershock after I drilled some holes to lighten the clutch a bit to delay the engagement. Most people use heavier springs... I'm to lazy to order them and experiment.
Click to expand...

great pics and display. It seems the Tmaxx springs are wimpy. can I upgrade to a beefier spring? or will I compromise clutch?engine life?
I really appreciate your time and input. I will look into supporting the site soon.
Also should I replace the shoes and clutch bell with the next trip to the LHS? possible defectiveness/ premature wear? kikdrum
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A "beefier" spring may not fit, but more importantly, the shoes may not weigh enough to overcome the strength of a stronger spring. That will either cause the clutch to engage late, weak or not at all.

Your best bet if your having issues may be to just find a decent 3-shoe for 1/10 use. Many say integy's aren't bad. I guess out of 2000 parts... 1 or two must be ok? lol

Integy: http://www.rcplanet.com/Integy_3_Piece_Clutch_Conversion_Revo_p/intt3215silver.htm

M2C Racing: http://www.m2cracing.com/category.sc?categoryId=13
 
olds97_lss said:
Supposed to be that way? To be honest, I never noticed much of an improvement when I flipped them. All that did was deform them more. Tried it many moons ago when I had a t-maxx.

The best option is to move the trans ahead 1/4" (requires mod'ing the chassis a bit, at least mine did when I had a revo) and installing a complete 1/8 clutch/flywheel/bell setup. May do that to my slayer if my clutch dies. Although, I do have a couple spares from things I've bought over the years...

This is how far I had to move mine:
<images removed within quote to conserve space>

I slotted the trans bolt holes a bit and ground a bit off the chassis so the brake parts would clear and the trans would move forward. I think the brakes cleared, but the trans hit the chassis. Once I had it lined up, I drilled a couple 3mm holes through the chassis and through the flanges on the trans so I could key the trans to the chassis more solidly with a nut and bolt:
<images removed within quote to conserve space>

I was using an OFNA bell and HPI savage 3-shoe teflon shoes/springs and flywheel. Never had a clutch problem again after that. Regardless which engine I ran. On the small blocks, I had to get a little spacer to extend the crank, but it worked out really well.
Click to expand...

There's actually no specific way they're SUPPOSED to go. I just remember in RCCA a few years ago that was the way they said it should be. I do notice a difference though. Leading edge first makes for a fast firm grab, they kind of wedge themselves in there, but they do wear faster and I've broken shoes that way. The other way makes for a smoother engagement and makes the engine seem alot snappier, but they will glaze. I'm going to run my maxx that way from now on because my picco 21 just doesn't seem to have the snap I like for wheelies. I have a thread on it in the engines section.......if you'd be so kind as to share some wisdom. :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm just gonna tune the clutch and wait for a better engine. Sorry, I don't know how to remove images from a quote.
 

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