more problems with my revo

[pugs2300]

ok....i fixed my turnbuckle with a good amount of jb weld....which worked suprisingly well.....but i got a new problem...
my truck rolled gently and quit....when i got to it it wouldnt start with the wheels on the ground....i can pick it up and it will start and run fine until i sit it down and the ground stops the wheels....its like the clutch is stuck or something...won't start or run with anything holding the wheels from turning...appreciate any help you can offer...

 

[hamz9561]

It sounds like the spring that holds the clutch shoes has either broken or come loose. You'll need to pull the clutch bell off and take a closer look.

 

[pugs2300]

hmmm.....now to find the clutch bell.................wish me luck with that...lol

is there anything online that can kinda walk me through removeing the bellhouseing....I'm not even sure where to start...lol...

 

[Evofreak]

you're gonna have to pull the motor out and just remove the e-clip that holds the clutch bell and you can easily full it out.

 

[pugs2300]

ok sweet i have all the lines and linkage off the motor....one qeustion though...which of these bolts do i need to remove lol
i read in another thread there was 2 bolts but i see 4????

 

[olds97_lss]

On the revo, there are two bolts on the bottom side of the chassis that run parrallel with the chassis. They are long bolts that go through the bottom part of the mount from rear to front that hold the mount together. The engine attaches to the top part of the mount. That part of the mount and the engine come off in one piece.

The green circled bolts are the two I'm talking about. Not the red ones:

Not these either:

That's my slayer, which is why it's silver and not blue like a revo. The mount is the same though. Once you take out those two bolts completely, gently pry the engine towards the gas tank and it should "rock" out of the engine brace. Keep in mind that the cradle should remain on the engine.

You will have to do some learning on setting proper gear mesh once you put it back together.

Before adjusting the mesh, put the engine and bolts back in and gently tighten the bolts. Then slide/rock the engine towards/away from the fuel tank. The long bolt that is closer to the center of the truck is a pivot point. The long bolt closer to the edge of the truck is where the engine will actually slide to adjust gear mesh. Once you have it set, tighten both bolts and recheck the mesh. Sometimes things move when you tighten completely. Usually if you had them lightly tightened, they hold fine when you tighten all the way.

 

[pugs2300]

dude...thanks...i so didn't even see those bolts...
i hate to be a pain but whats next.....the one big nut in the center or the three little bolts...on the transmissin.....

 

[olds97_lss]

You may want to take the roll bar off (held on with two bolts from the bottom of the chassis). Once the two long bolts are out and linkage/lines/header are disconnected from the engine, you should be able to wiggle it out without taking the spur off the trans or messing with the trans at all.

Marked in green:

My bolts were already out as I was putting the rig together. But there are two button head bolts there that hold the roll bar on. With the roll bar off and out of the way, getting the engine out from the side should be pretty painless.

 

[pugs2300]

right i got that off.....but the reason was i think i have a spring broke in my clutch bell and i have to take it apart.....I'm very new to this...lol....now I'm to the transmissin and lost again....i see a gear with a nut in the middle and three nuts surrounding it.....which do i need to take off first to continue gettin to the slipper clutch where the spring is....?....sheww i feel like such a noob...

 

[olds97_lss]

Oh, no, that's not the spring in question. The spring we are talking about is holding the clutch shoes onto the flywheel which is on the engine. To get at that, you have to have the engine off the truck so you can take the bell off the engine.

The CB (clutch bell) is the small steel gear that spins the spur (bigger plastic gear) on the trans. If need be I can see if I have a photo of that...

 

[pugs2300]

oh ok....damn i was so lookin in the wrong spot....yea i would appreciate a pic...that would help a heap...

 

[olds97_lss]

This mangled looking gear is a bell on an engine:

Yours should have a c-clip in place of a button head screw like this one.

Behind that, you will find something like this:

Those are your shoes and spring. Your shoes should both only have one hole in them. This is a photo of MIP's tunable shoes. The spring actually goes in a groove on the edge of the shoes and is connected in a circle. This holds the shoes close to the crank at low RPM's (idle). When the spring breaks or weakens, the shoes are allowed to swing out at low RPM and drag on the bell causing the truck to move or stall.

 

[pugs2300]

ok...I'm to that point....my spring wasn't connected....its not broke and i don't htink it wouldl. be weak since its the first day I've ran the truck....can i reconnect it somehow..



well maybe it did break....i can't see any way of makin it go together....does it just hook end to end??

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Yep. You have to give it a crimp where it hooks together to keep it from coming apart. Just don't crimp it too hard or it will break.

 

[olds97_lss]

On the last coil on each end, take a pair of side cutters and separate the coil from the spring. This will give you one coil on each end to make a hook. Then open one coil a bit so you can get it hooked on the other end. Then gently crimp both so they don't get disconnected again.

When I put the spring back on the shoes, I usually put it so the coil isn't at a gap between the shoes. Usually I put it near one of the pivot pins.

Steps:
1) Pry coil away from the end a bit on each end

2) Open one of the coils a bit

3) Hook the coils together

4) Crimp the coils a bit so they don't come apart

5) Install on one shoe, then gently put the coil in the trough of the second shoe and pry a bit to get them both in the coil.

6) Line up the coil so connection is not not on a gap

7) Make sure to install the shoes on the flywheel so the end of the shoe that makes contact with the bell is the trailing end.

Sorry, that's the only "installed" clutch photo I have. It's a 3 shoe on my aftershock after I drilled some holes to lighten the clutch a bit to delay the engagement. Most people use heavier springs... I'm to lazy to order them and experiment.

 

[pugs2300]

thanks man that helped a bunch...i think i can salvage my old spring but i got a new set of shoes and a spring on the way....ill try the repair till then....so how resilient is the clutch bell...is that something id want to have a spare of...

 

[olds97_lss]

If your running a plastic spur, then no, it will last many gallons.

The bearings for them wear out pretty quick though. CB bearings are some of the hardest working bearings in RC. Exposed to a lot of heat, high RPM's, minimal oil and grit/dirt. It's always a good idea to have at least one set of bearings on hand. If yours feel gritty or loose, replace them. As soon as a bearing goes out completely, it will take a spur with it almost every time.

I'd get a couple spurs on hand as well.

 

[pugs2300]

well i repaired the spring and it worked out fine....
but then my repair on my turnbuckle broke and in turn broke my lower a arm....lol...
i got the a arm off of the wheel hub but i can't really see how to get it off of the car itself...the parts break down isn't easy to follow on that particulr section...lol..

 

[olds97_lss]

Take these 5 screws out of the bottom skids:

The yellow one holds the steering pivot and is very long.

Once the skids are off, you will see that there are 4 short pins holding the lower arms in. Slide them out and take out the arms.

 

[Raiden101]

If you take off the front bumper, there is a screw in the center of a blue piece of metal. Once you take that off, there are small pins that go through the a-arm and release it from the body