Might of found the problem on why I was breaking the lower skid plate for the slash

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DavidB1126

Team Bomb Pop
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Maybe the deformation causes the peg to move back and forth and break? My choices are to either get another LCG chassis kit or upgrade to a rustler 2wd chassis which will shorten the wheel base but the chassis might be stronger. Or a full aluminum or carbon fiber chassis. I still want to bash the car off road and do jumps so aluminum or carbon fiber might not be a good choice.
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What I had done is just take the whole car apart and set the chassis aside. either way I am going to get a new chassis.
Also I would have to get another pack of bearings for the bellcrank. The pegs are bearing stealers. Probably will get a fast Eddy bearing kit.
 

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actually looks like bellcrank post is to short id look for a alternative longer material custom parts before for my rigs
 
Looks to me like the upper and lower chassis were not fully seated together. I noticed this when I wad assembling our drag Slash. Are the screw holes stripped out where the upper and lower bolt together?
 
Looks to me like the upper and lower chassis were not fully seated together. I noticed this when I wad assembling our drag Slash. Are the screw holes stripped out where the upper and lower bolt together?
The screws that hold on the bellcrank get stripped out and can't get them out of the peg. Never had any other screws strip out. Also those pegs are known as "bearing stealers" They steal my bearings. Never had any issues with the steering pegs on my rustler chassis so thats why I said I might upgrade to a rustler chassis. Also the rustler chassis is more lighter than the slash chassis. But it will shorten up the wheel base and in order for me to continue to use the SCT body I need to punch new holes in the body. Also one thing to note I do try to line up the lower and upper to the best I can. Also maybe it can be the servo I am using? The servo I am using is a little bit like wider and a little taller than the traxxas servo and doesn't fully seat where the servo goes.
Inked20220714_152032.jpg
 
then wf is correct .servo is causing most of this issue. get a servo that fits .get screws out. drill holes deeper in tubes tap again.
 
Yeah, if that servo isn't sitting in the pockect, it's causing the upper and lower chassis not to be fully seated together. That is causing end play in your bellcranks, and causing them to deform their locating bores.

Either get a different servo, or make clearance in the chassis for the servo to sit where it is supposed to.
 
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