might do an rc10gt electric...however...

[the13bats]

Not sure which section this fits best so if a mod wants to move it go nuts,

I am old school, doing a couple rc10/rc10gt based builds,
I love nitro however my OCD and ADD is not wanting to cuddle but rather making me grind on maybe i should do an electric rc10gt car, yes car,, i convert the trucks to short buggy arms,

I have plenty of old school esc and brushed motors and can make for free or pay 25 to 30 on ebay for an electric motor mount, it doesn't require hacking so i could return to nitro,

Then it dawn on me the gt stealth is different gearing to the rc10 goldie buggy,
So is there a good starting point for spur and pinion for such a conversion?

Thanks
cheers
b

 

[tntpoof]

Hello at 1st when I read this I was like how did I miss the gt. thought it was a rc10L or rc10cf style.(raced a ton of flat track parking lots in early 90's) then I read on and seen it was gt means gas truck.. Good luck. if your handy and have a butane torch you can make your own E motor mounts with so alumaloy (many low temp welding rods on market) welding rods and a drill Good luck man where theirs a will theres a way

 

[the13bats]

Huh?

i heard of the rc10l but never heard of an rc10cf ?

Its almost like building a kit to modify a rc10gt into a buggy or in my case to road dirt oval type cars,

And it was/is a very popular bolt together modification to go electric on a rc10gt, they sell a little flat bolt on plate to hold the electric motor, you pick brushed and brushless or brushless only,

Its so simply a person could make the motor mount out of aluminum stock, not torches no welding,

Here is one of my typical rc10gt to on road dirt oval cars,
I can so easy go electric on it,

Here is an electric rc10gt, ( not mine ) but
No welding or torches involved,

The reason i posted this was to talk about gearing with someone who has done an electric conversion on a nitro car.

Have a good one,
Cheers
b

 

[tntpoof]

its just a rc10l on carbon fiber.. drives completely different. Slow in corners ,could take the trigger good.Was given 1 bye a AE driver in late 98 I think.

 

[ahr43]

I've done two. Black tub and blue plate. Motor mount came from an Ebay purchase. I stayed with 32P gears and standard nitro gear ratios.
[ Edit: 13/64 32P = 4.92 black tub; 13/64 32P = 4.92 blue plate ].

 

[the13bats]

Ahr43,

Thanks for sharing,

The motor mount appears to be the one i saw on ebay, its nice but I'm on a budget ahem, cheap, and considered making one,

If i understand its design the motor is only supported off the trans which may be enough but then i think about even the old rc10 goldies had a fairly well supported motor, the mount bolted to the trans and the pan and the trans was tied in,

I considered perhaps a motor mount idea like the rear pod of a pan car, mount the motor on the pan/chassis like a nitro motor, perhaps way overkill but its my OCD racing.

Your builds are sweet, curious what bell crank in on the black tub,
Did the stock gearing run pretty well? in my case i turn gts into cars, buggy wheel track, not wide truck arms, for on road or dirt oval type running,

The gt is great for this electric conversion placing the motor midship where associated should have put it on goldies,

I have both black tubs or a blue pan to try it on, did you like one over the other, i love the goldie style front suspenion plate, it swaps around as a unit,

So how about costs,
Battery,motor,esc, charger, = ?
How long run times do you get?

Thanks again,
Cheers
b

 

[ahr43]

Greetings "b". I'll try to address all your questions. Should I miss anything or you need more info, please ask again.

Yes, motor mount is the $26 DynoTech Racing item offered on Ebay. On the black tub, cut two short lengths of 1/4in aluminum tubing to support the nose of the tranny when the nitro engine mount was removed. Also fabricated two pieces of F/G shim to place under the tranny and on top of the tranny under the tranny brace off the rear shock mount. You can see them as the yellow bits in the picture. I wanted the additional clearance for the nylon screen and thick zip tie used to shield the open can on the motor.

Don't know about the bell crank. Truck was an Ebay purchase. That's what came on it as a nitro truck prior to conversion.

Used the existing engine throttle/brake servo mounts and existing chassis holes to secure battery in the first picture (above). Below pictures show the upgrade to body mount posts locating and securing battery pack. Still using existing chassis holes.

Black tub mid-motor conversion is a runner. Has won back yard grass track series two years running. It is 4oz lighter overall than the blue plate conversion. Blue plate conversion (above) shows OEM 66T spur. I wanted more chassis clearance, so swapped in a 64T spur and dropped a tooth on the pinion to compensate.

Power units are HobbyWing Xerun 17.5 and Stock Spec ESC for the tub. Plate uses a Novak 17.5 Ballistic and GTB ESC out of the pit box. Plenty of motor in either install for my track. About $150 or so for the HW; Novak valued at $50, give-or-take. Battery for all my trucks is standardized at a 2s x 4600 7.4V 60C LiPo 'shorty'. Again, $50 plus tax and shipping.

Have no idea on run time. My back yard grass track oval is small and tight. Scale 'short' 1/4 mi. Events are short. Battery voltage at race end seldom drops below 8.1-8.2V.

Hope this answers the mail. Good luck. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[the13bats]

Thanks AC,
My buddies call me "bats" thats where the "B" comes from.

Yep, that gives me plenty to digest, i really dig old school so i love your builds, an old meets new in a slick way, do you guys ever video your races?

Bitd when it was just rc10 goldies with 6 gears the modded guys would turn the trans around mid engine but also rebuild it so the input was still on the same side, they would find wild artistic ways to cut up goldie pans,
i recall one fellow made his own direct drive, you know pinion to spur, it was so darn cool,

After seeing how you did yours I'm gonna putz around with some channel or angle aluminum see what i can cobble up, and then try it with old school electrics,
I've been trying to be all budget crazy with 2020s hurdles. Trying not to buy any toy stuff so i can use extra funds for my 1:1 car or home repairs,

Saw a intertesting car on ebay, rc10 drift, its a pan type idea, suspension rear but like pan car front end, looks fairly homemade.

 

[ahr43]

O.K. bats. Got it. Thanks for the good words. Nothing more fun than taking a rolling chassis and hanging stuff off it. Is the 'Michelin Man' nitro tub roller your conversion project? Looks like a great platform to begin with. Please to post up progress reports on your build.

Vids? Only one. Mine is a private track in my back yard. Not many guests drivers with cars yet. Cheers. 'AC' Here is YouTube on the blue plate about a year ago:

RC10GTe conversion

 

[the13bats]

Thanks for sharing the vid, thats slick,

I had a mini track here between my lot and the vacant lot behind me, but someone moved in, so no more, next door is a good sized parking lot but its that cheese grader asphalt, hard on tires and pans.

Hanging stuff off? Me never...

Getting way off topic, my thread so who cares?
This was my chimera fury road wasteland theme,
Was messing with it when covid20 kicked in but needed new air brush needles so i stepped away and pulled out the RC10 stuff,

Yeah, this is one of my on road dirt oval projects,




Bitd i raced the outlaw vette body on a modded rc10 goldie, so i did not want to hack it,
I made my body mounts fit the holes the rear is slick all bolt on,
I wanted a junkyard look build but that hot pink has got to go, i am hunting a few parts like aftermarket rear arms, a dirt car front bumper and crp rear bumper, and running various wheels and tires from pan car to truck, depending where I'm running,

I liked how this went together so well its what makes me want to do a twin to this car but electric and with this hacked up body, i have parts in my RC junkyard so pretty much free to do.



My buddy built the 58 on a goldie mid late 80s, he made a mess of the body gave it to me rather than pay back a loan,
Its sitting here on a rc10ds
A little trimming sanding airbrush i believe i can make a junkyard bomber

 

[ahr43]

Great imagination and application, bats. Cool stuff. Let me guess, Road Warrior is one of your favorite movies? Mine too, by the way. I've always wanted to build Max's 'Interceptor V8' in RC. RC10 et all 2WD is a versatile platform a custom builder can do lots with.

Fitting a body with existing mounting holes to an donor chassis is a great exercise in concentration. Did that once with a dragster body I really liked. Built a chassis underneath based on the body holes. But, as you probably found out. Once is enough.

Looking forward to seeing how your project progresses. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[the13bats]

Yeah, i pretty much liked the first 3 MM films decades back maybe too much, lol fury road grew on me.

I was in the music,club,band biz and drove a beater to work, 76 mustang2 hatchback on shackles, stacked hood scoop, the rear seat always down, i had a winch up front like the older stang in cherry 2000 and other personal touches, lots of fog lights etc.

Thing is i also like campy stuff like munsters, ratfink and tankgirl so one can see that in the chimera build, which has a long way to go,
I'm too ADD OCD to try to build replicas, I've seen people build some cool interceptors.

Rc10s and their family just work well for me,
Yeah, the body mount restraint was trying it took a couple weeks, i would hit a dead end then work on something else and come back and one night it flowed together,

The gt doner had a mip stinger but it just wasn't going to fit with my rear mods and body mount so i have to use the side mount, I'm messing with mounting the mip stinger its smaller than stock along the side and using a little L silicone exhaust piece on the then forward pointing tip,
I post updates but as you see just not much intrest in old school,

Cheers
b