Build Thread Meus MB24 - Mr Crawly

[WickedFog]

Those rims look great! Sometimes utilitarian looks better than flashy.

That was my thinking.

These wheels are the most amazingly simple beadlocks I have ever assembled. No fuss. No fiddling around. Just put the pieces in the tires and put the screws in. It took less than 5 minutes to put them together. Literally.

For some reason there are 10 leftover screws, and one extra hub for the TRX4M.

 

[TeknoJ]

That was my thinking.

These wheels are the most amazing beadlocks I have ever assembled. No fuss. No fiddling around. Just put the pieces in the tires and put the screws in. It took less than 5 minutes to put them together. Literally.
View attachment 192009

For some reason there are 10 leftover screws, and one extra hub for the TRX4M.
View attachment 192010

If you don’t have extra parts after the assembly you KNOW you didn’t do it right!

 

[WickedFog]

Axles showed up. These things are suweeet! Note: these axles have a proprietary diff cover design. So you can't use aftermarket diff covers. But they are already brass, and these axles already have plenty of weight to them.

@Greywolf74 and I were talking about how pricey these are, but considering they come with steering links, a nice adjustable servo mount, adjustable rear upper link mount, and an underdrive gear for the rear axle, it's really a pretty damn good deal.

This stuff is very nicely machined. Exceptional quality. Came with an extra rod end to boot. The optional 2-16t underdrive gearset replaces the stock 2-14t gearset in the rear axle, giving the front axle a 14% overdrive.

 

[WickedFog]

Well shoot. Might as well toss a metal skid plate in this while I'm at it. Grabbed some simulated lockouts too.

 

[WickedFog]

Ok, I started working on the steering links. After installing the balls into the rod ends wrong... twice, I finally got it figured out (I think). There are no instructions for these, and the balls screw into the steering knuckles at an angle. And the rod ends are all angled. So the rod end/pivot ball orientation matters, to keep things from binding. A really slick bit of engineering really.

And the pivot balls only go through the rod ends from one direction. The double one must be installed in the connecting rod from the top of the rod end. Then the steering link snaps down on top.

The rod end angle orientation is shown below. The wheel side of the steering link is the same - angled up.

After looking... my pivot ball is backwards from the Meus pic. I will see if it needs to be flipped when I get my servo setup. If it mounts to the back of the servo horn, I think my way is best. Still not sure what servo I'm going to use.

 

[Tunedfrog]

I'm getting dizzy following all those twists and turns. .

 

[WickedFog]

I'm getting dizzy following all those twists and turns. .

Welcome to my pain!

But I gotta wonder how many people actually took the time to orient these correctly

 

[Tunedfrog]

I'm sure quite few people don't.

 

[WickedFog]

I'm sure quite few people don't.

They bind up if ya get em backwards, but it's really hard to tell they are binding.

 

[WickedFog]

Forgot to post a pic of the rear axle link mount installed. Really nice fit and finish on this stuff.

Ran into another little F up by Meus. The holes that the driver figures bolt to in the front are molded too big. The screws just drop right through the holes. Going to have to find some 2mm screws to put in there I guess.

 

[TeknoJ]

That chassis is hit and miss but I would still get one. Very nice axles.

 

[WickedFog]

That chassis is hit and miss but I would still get one. Very nice axles.

It's nothing too bad really. Not even sure if I'll be leaving the drivers in there anyway. I may have to whip up a battery tray for that spot. I have another kit that Doom sent me. It's the same way. Holes are too big in it too.

So after checking that, I decided to start getting the Injora links assembled. Lots of balls to put in the rod ends. These are just as nice as the Meus stuff. The rod ends have one side of the pivot ball hole bigger than the other. Make sure you put the balls in from that side.

Came with two extra rod ends and three extra pivot balls. No extra screws though. Those cheap asses!

Time for another break

Loving all the decals I have accumulated with these parts.

These chrome ones are vinyl transfers. More like a badge. They are thick, and once you stick them on, you peel the clear layer off.

 

[WickedFog]

After snapping the pivot balls into the rod ends with my pliers at the bench, I did the final assembly of the links in my recliner

Then a bit later I went back to the bench and assembled the chassis. I assume the brass spacers are to go between the shocks and the chassis rails, and the teeny tiny, nearly microscopic lock nuts go on the back side of the shock bolts. I'm REALLY not looking forward to putting the shocks on this chassis because of these tiny fasteners.

They also gave an extra aluminum crossmember rod for some strange reason. But I spare parts.

The velcro strips (one extra one too ) are supposed to go here on this pad up front. The rear hinges like stock SCX24's. But I will be doing magnets here. I really hate velcro!

This pad in the rear is where the factory ESC is supposed to mount, standing up on it's rear edge. Kinda strange. So, I am thinking this just might be my first Furitek equipped RC. Their small ESC's should fit here nicely.

You can see a gap between the shock here and the chassis. So that must be where the brass spacers go. A simple note on the exploded view stating "Spacers if needed" with an arrow pointing here would be good.

 

[WickedFog]

So, after browsing Furitek's site, I dunno what to do. This stuff is really pricey. But it would really simplify this build to have a bit less room taken up by the electronics.

 

[WickedFog]

That chassis is hit and miss but I would still get one. Very nice axles.

Ok, so Meus replied. I guess I have an old instruction sheet. Those holes are clearance holes. Those two front screws go through both pieces into the body. So nothing defective here except my instruction sheet. My step 4 shows 4 screws going downward through the driver plate into the chassis.

But my sheet also shows this. I hadn't got that far yet.

 

[TeknoJ]

So, after browsing Furitek's site, I dunno what to do. This stuff is really pricey. But it would really simplify this build to have a bit less room taken up by the electronics.
View attachment 192273

I would go with just a lizard/iguana esc, whatever they are. Mine does brushed or brushless, and I sourced a motor elsewhere.

Ok, so Meus replied. I guess I have an old instruction sheet. Those holes are clearance holes. Those two front screws go through both pieces into the body. So nothing defective here except my instruction sheet. My step 4 shows 4 screws going downward through the driver plate into the chassis.

But my sheet also shows this. I hadn't got that far yet.
View attachment 192321

that clears it up then

 

[WickedFog]

Got the skidplate and wheel nuts in.

That was what I was waiting on to get the links and axles installed.

Then while installing the shocks, one of the lower shock ball studs broke off in the axle. So I had to order some 1mm carbide drill bits to try to get it out. I'll probably have to use a lock nut on the back of the screw to hold it in. So pissed off that I was stupid enough to break it off in there

 

[johnnydmd]

Wow that thing is tiny!

 

[WickedFog]

Wow that thing is tiny!

Yeah, and the screws are microscopic

 

[Chubaka]

Got the skidplate and wheel nuts in.
View attachment 192388
View attachment 192392

That was what I was waiting on to get the links and axles installed.
View attachment 192389
View attachment 192390
View attachment 192391

Then while installing the shocks, one of the lower shock ball studs broke off in the axle. So I had to order some 1mm carbide drill bits to try to get it out. I'll probably have to use a lock nut on the back of the screw to hold it in. So pissed off that I was stupid enough to break it off in there

Think of it as you have a custom grease hole now.