vbgagnon
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I have a friend with a Mugen MBX-4 and for some reason it doesn't want to turn under power. Anybody have any suggestions?
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MBX-4 turning/lack of
- Thread starter vbgagnon
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Meaning, the wheels themselves actually don't turn? Or they turn but the car keeps wanting to drive forward?
If it's the first case, I dunno =) Maybe the servo saver is too loose if it's adjustable. If it does this while it's on the starter box (throttle engaged and car won't turn) then it could be the universals binding.
If it's the second, if the car is pushing through turns instead of turning it could be a number of things. Everything from swaybar setup to suspension setup. A few easy things to try would be to angle the rear shocks more (tighter suspension) and/or put more spacers on the rear shocks to raise the rear of the car. This can help push the front of the car down allowing for more steering on corners.
That's all I got =)
If it's the first case, I dunno =) Maybe the servo saver is too loose if it's adjustable. If it does this while it's on the starter box (throttle engaged and car won't turn) then it could be the universals binding.
If it's the second, if the car is pushing through turns instead of turning it could be a number of things. Everything from swaybar setup to suspension setup. A few easy things to try would be to angle the rear shocks more (tighter suspension) and/or put more spacers on the rear shocks to raise the rear of the car. This can help push the front of the car down allowing for more steering on corners.
That's all I got =)
hmmm , well I dont know what your friend has for a base set-up , or which X-4 he has (MBX-4RR or MBX-4XR) , but a good on power set-up for the XR is,
Diffs,
Front 7k
Center 10k
Rear, 2k(more turning, rear end comes around more and is a little more squirrely) or
*Rear 3k(more power planted in the rear, super-solid rear end, but tends to get a little "pushy") overall 2k in rear works very well...
Shocks,
use all big-bore shocks and temper the ends last 1/2" of the shaft including the threads ,(temper= heat them up with a mild torch or flame, helps with them not breaking with the following suggestion)
leave 2 threads showing on the front shocks, and 1 thread showing on the rears.
Measure them once you assemble the shock end for precise length (from left shock to right shock)measurement.
Soooo,
Front shocks, pistons drill them to 1.55mm and use 50wt oil. Grey Springs, full sway bar..
Rear shocks , pistons drill them to 1.55mm and use 45wt oil. Grey Springs, full sway bar..
Front shock position , upper = 2nd hole from outer & bottom row,,,,
Bottom of shock = middle position.
Rear shock position, upper = outer position, upper row,, bottom of shock=middle hole.
Front "droop"-screws all the way out,
Rear " droop"-screws all the way out, then 1/4 turn in for tension.(also evens out the F to R difference)
******so in general what this whole set-up above does is, give a fairly limited travel car a new look on bumpy tracks, and works quite well, much more so than the prior physical/engineering limitations of the car.***********
front caster= centered, (equal amounts of shims in front as rear of the arm)
ackerman in rear hole(feels like its a little snappier & more reactive),
front = 1 degree of toe out per side.
2mm shims under outer steering rod ball (compensates for increased travel)
Rear link,, outer link = upper most -outer hole,,, inner link = inner most- lower hole...
Rear = 2 degrees of camber
Front = 2 degrees of camber
ride height
front = level across dogbones (slightly higher 1-1.5mm depending if you want to carry more speed into the corners, or leave it be if you driver conservatively)
Rear = level across dogbones
Rear toe-in = 3 degrees
......
.
.
.
for additional settings which I had to do when i used this car 3 times a week at different tracks, was, take 1mm washers and shave them so they were angled slightly on top, like a slope , then use them for front and rear under the arm mount adjustments,,, kinda a cheap way to get anti-squat adjustments outta the car, when it wasn't made for it... it sounds kinda ghetto but it workded well....
so once you get those 1mm washers and shave or sand them at a slight angle on top, you can use these in the front or rear to put uner the front portion of arm mounts to get a psudo "anti-squat", if you go this far ,, MAKE SURE you sand each set of washers precisely-exactly-closely as possible (haha you get my point there)...
if you do this step, use 1mm shims in steps , equally on each side to get anti-squat,,
front of car,
Rear of front arm mounts = 1mm...
Rear of car,
Front of rear arms = 1mm...
if you do all of these steps down to the last "shim" step, this car will haul serious ar$e.
and turn on a dime.. with power to boot. Even if you do not do the "shim" step, it's still a good set-up for most any track you could run on.
The only place this set-up would fall slightly short of the newer cars, would be on a SUPER bumpy track with ruts everywhere , even on the straight.
sorry if i forgot anything,,,,tired from paintin all night,, hope this helps out your friend....
Lates!!
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
Diffs,
Front 7k
Center 10k
Rear, 2k(more turning, rear end comes around more and is a little more squirrely) or
*Rear 3k(more power planted in the rear, super-solid rear end, but tends to get a little "pushy") overall 2k in rear works very well...
Shocks,
use all big-bore shocks and temper the ends last 1/2" of the shaft including the threads ,(temper= heat them up with a mild torch or flame, helps with them not breaking with the following suggestion)
leave 2 threads showing on the front shocks, and 1 thread showing on the rears.
Measure them once you assemble the shock end for precise length (from left shock to right shock)measurement.
Soooo,
Front shocks, pistons drill them to 1.55mm and use 50wt oil. Grey Springs, full sway bar..
Rear shocks , pistons drill them to 1.55mm and use 45wt oil. Grey Springs, full sway bar..
Front shock position , upper = 2nd hole from outer & bottom row,,,,
Bottom of shock = middle position.
Rear shock position, upper = outer position, upper row,, bottom of shock=middle hole.
Front "droop"-screws all the way out,
Rear " droop"-screws all the way out, then 1/4 turn in for tension.(also evens out the F to R difference)
******so in general what this whole set-up above does is, give a fairly limited travel car a new look on bumpy tracks, and works quite well, much more so than the prior physical/engineering limitations of the car.***********
front caster= centered, (equal amounts of shims in front as rear of the arm)
ackerman in rear hole(feels like its a little snappier & more reactive),
front = 1 degree of toe out per side.
2mm shims under outer steering rod ball (compensates for increased travel)
Rear link,, outer link = upper most -outer hole,,, inner link = inner most- lower hole...
Rear = 2 degrees of camber
Front = 2 degrees of camber
ride height
front = level across dogbones (slightly higher 1-1.5mm depending if you want to carry more speed into the corners, or leave it be if you driver conservatively)
Rear = level across dogbones
Rear toe-in = 3 degrees
......
.
.
.
for additional settings which I had to do when i used this car 3 times a week at different tracks, was, take 1mm washers and shave them so they were angled slightly on top, like a slope , then use them for front and rear under the arm mount adjustments,,, kinda a cheap way to get anti-squat adjustments outta the car, when it wasn't made for it... it sounds kinda ghetto but it workded well....
so once you get those 1mm washers and shave or sand them at a slight angle on top, you can use these in the front or rear to put uner the front portion of arm mounts to get a psudo "anti-squat", if you go this far ,, MAKE SURE you sand each set of washers precisely-exactly-closely as possible (haha you get my point there)...
if you do this step, use 1mm shims in steps , equally on each side to get anti-squat,,
front of car,
Rear of front arm mounts = 1mm...
Rear of car,
Front of rear arms = 1mm...
if you do all of these steps down to the last "shim" step, this car will haul serious ar$e.
and turn on a dime.. with power to boot. Even if you do not do the "shim" step, it's still a good set-up for most any track you could run on.
The only place this set-up would fall slightly short of the newer cars, would be on a SUPER bumpy track with ruts everywhere , even on the straight.
sorry if i forgot anything,,,,tired from paintin all night,, hope this helps out your friend....
Lates!!
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
*haha* , anytime... drop me an email & let me know how that works for you...
Lates!!
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
Lates!!
-Will-
www.WilzWerx.com
