may be a problem please help

[Kurtis916]

while i was in the process of sealing the engine i took the piston and sleeve out to clean them when i put them back in i made sure to put them back in the correct way and line up the sleeve. but now when i rotate the piston in the motions to see if i put the poston back the correct way, it clicks every time it goes to the top and clicks when it starts go go back down. like it clicks right when it gets to the top and clicks out of it. i dont know if you get what I'm saying this but i dont know how else to explain it. i dont remember if it did this before i took the engine appart but it does it now. is there something wrong? or is this how it always is. if you need to ask me something more specific let me know. ty

 

[MotoGod]

Check the conrod bushing. Maybe you are hearing some play in there?

 

[2revo1maxx]

Maybe the piston and sleeve are so clean now that they have more friction than normal and it's probably either still got some pinch left in it or a bad conrod bushing as stated above. Did you put a little oil on the parts before re-assembly?

 

[Kurtis916]

Maybe the piston and sleeve are so clean now that they have more friction than normal and it's probably either still got some pinch left in it or a bad conrod bushing as stated above. Did you put a little oil on the parts before re-assembly?

i used wd 40 is that fine?

 

[Metalhead Matt]

wd's cool.

 

[jwalker420]

i have got a little problem with my new 1/8 scale truck, when i start it it revs as high as it will go for sum reason the idle is set perfect and I'm pretty sure the high speed is good its rich but and the low speed is turned out 1 turn from all the way in and yet everytime i start it it just takes off i had to run after the damn thing a few times, and now the spur gear is gone because it just reved up so high that broke a tooth in the gear so now I'm like wtf

 

[hamz9561]

It sounds like that motor has an air leak.you really need to seal the back-plate and the carb that should really help your problem. After you seal those 2 items let the engine sit overnight, start the engine and spray some canned air around the cracks and crevices while the engine's running. When it speeds up that's where another leak is.

 

[jwalker420]

if it is a leak i mean, I'm good with putting things together and taking them apart but its gone be hard for me fix it i might take it to the ppl at hobby town usa but i mean my rc is redcat racing i know i know not the best name brand but its something i want to make this work i mean i havent even run 1 and a half tanks through it id have to order new parts and poop for it from redcat but idk is the ppl in town will be able to fix it, cuzz what they havent heard of redcat and they dont know how to get the parts and poop

i love this rc truck i mean i got a Revo 2.5 r but it needs a few parts nothing crazy u know i got it for 50 bucks and yea, but this new rc truck I'm talking about has big ass tires and looks kool as poop and i really want to get it working, though id rather have the revo working, i mean the truck is brand new and i can't even run it because it wants to take off after 20 second or so after i start it and i got to get a new spur gear now too, i mean damn ups just brought it to 2 weeks ago

 

[PaulC]

Regarding WD40. The oil is VERY light and does not last for very long before it evaporates and breaks down to "gunk". The gunk will then line your piston and sleeve.

Fine for short term storage and afterrun, but I'd use heavier oil or proper afterun oil if you are storing it for a winter.

 

[Scrogg]

i have got a little problem with my new 1/8 scale truck, when i start it it revs as high as it will go for sum reason the idle is set perfect and I'm pretty sure the high speed is good its rich but and the low speed is turned out 1 turn from all the way in and yet everytime i start it it just takes off i had to run after the damn thing a few times, and now the spur gear is gone because it just reved up so high that broke a tooth in the gear so now I'm like wtf

Clarify for me..."Low speed is turned out 1 turn from all the way in"......If this is how you set it, of course it's going to rev off instantly. That's lean as hell on any engine! Read the manual, set the LSN properly if this is what you did.

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Sounds like he needs to start from the beginning. Do a radio check first. Test the range. Then make sure when your fingers off of the trigger, the carbs at idle. Squeezed, full throttle. Pushed, locked brakes. Then put the needles back to factory and break that thing in right. By cranking the lsn in that far, the engines longevity is probably already compromised. If your still having trouble with the rpms climbing for no apparent reason, do a full seal job on it and try again. Redcat's a lower-level company, although they are trying their damnedest to step it up. You can't take for granted that it's ready to go straight from the box. It wouldn't hurt to make sure the mesh is set right. Adding locktite(blue, removable) to the engine screws and any other metal to metal screws is a simple way to save you headaches in the future.

 

[2revo1maxx]

Regarding WD40. The oil is VERY light and does not last for very long before it evaporates and breaks down to "gunk". The gunk will then line your piston and sleeve.

Fine for short term storage and afterrun, but I'd use heavier oil or proper afterun oil if you are storing it for a winter.

My thoughts exactly. Wd 40 makes starting a bit easier, but I use after run for long term storage.

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Exactly. I see no reason to not use after run oil. Wd's fine for lubing an engine that was just put back together if it's going to be started right away. After run is cheap and recommended by the manufacturers. It just seems real silly how often people try to get around using it.