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Making sure BDC while cooling engine, ... if i keep up, will it life longer?

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redhatman

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Hey, I was wondering if after everytime I drive my RC10GT and I'm done... if I let the engine cool while piston is at BDC (even after break in) Will this increase the engines life, or not matter much. I am trying to do my best while break in to make it BDC, but after I'm done breaking in, will it matter much anymore? Thanks
-Pat (redhatman)
 
it will matter for the life of the engine since the sleeve has a slight taper at the top that will expand when at operating temp. Let the engine cool down with the piston at the top (even after break-in) and you'll damage the piston and sleeve over due time.
 
so what your saying is even after break in, make sure that the piston is at BDC, correct?

BTW, FAST REPLY!
 
That is exactly what Diver is saying. BDC after every run, and you will have a much happier longer lived engine.
 
ok, thanks guys. One more question, what would make my engine have a faster acceleration?
 
You can't really change the acceleration of the engine in a dramatic fashion, but you can change the acceleration of the drivetrain. Once you have tuned the engine for performance, changing the gearing and the clutch set-up can improve acceleration for the vehicle.

Aside from that, the engine will perform to its design specs as long as it has the right fuel and air mixture.
 
Most people will remove their glo-plug and look down the hole. They will then rotate the flywheel until the see the piston head at the top of the stroke through the hole. Then they will rotate the flywheel about 180 degrees from that point and mark the flywheel. That way they know when they see the mark, that they have the piston at BDC. Others just mark the flywheel when they see the piston at the top of the stroke, and then rotate the flywheel until they see the mark out the bottom of their vehicle. Same affect, piston at BDC. Just two ways to go about making it happen.
 
yea, I took out the plug and looked when it was at bdc, and made a permanent marker mark on my flywheel.
 
What's BDC mean?

(whores have no soul...)

Hey, this is fun!


RedHatMan, you will notice more of a pinch problem with more expensive engines I believe. The high dollar engines have a retardedly tight pinch for a good portion of their life. Leaving those engines at TDC while cooling could actually result in a engine that is seized. However, with an OS CV, you will notice longer life by following the same rules.

I've been doing it on all my engines throughout the entire life of the engine. Some say just to do it during break-in, but I do it every time the engine is shut down. Even if it's for a quick smoke in between tanks.

I'm not knocking your engine, just trying to explain the effect and on some engines the necessity of it. I buy low $ engines as well. The most I've spent was $160 at a crappy LHS on an Omega 21.
 
Pat (redhatman), like Olds says, just go ahead and leave it always at BDC. I always do, no matter what motor or rig I am using. I have everything from stock TRX 2.5's in my Revo and T-maxx, to an O.S. V-Spec in my TTR S3 buggy. I have about 2 gallons through them all and no sign of compression loss, although it might too early to tell. Just make sure if you think you might not run it for a a few days to add a bit of WD-40 or ARO down the piston and carb. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for best results.
 
Is nitrost like 13 years old?

Anyways, after you shut off the engine, make sure the piston is at bdc.
 
If you need more low end power then run a longer neck to your pipe. The closer the pipe is to the engine the smoother the power band will be. The greater the distance will move the power band to the bottom end from the top end.
 
MillerTime said:
If you need more low end power then run a longer neck to your pipe. The closer the pipe is to the engine the smoother the power band will be. The greater the distance will move the power band to the bottom end from the top end.

what did that have to do with keeping the piston at BDC???
 
MillerTime said:
If you need more low end power then run a longer neck to your pipe. The closer the pipe is to the engine the smoother the power band will be. The greater the distance will move the power band to the bottom end from the top end.

Someone had a little too much Miller eh? :cheers:
 
redhatman said:
ok, thanks guys. One more question, what would make my engine have a faster acceleration?


If you want your engine to rev faster and take off harder. tighten up the clutch spring / springs (whichever setup you have) and try a lighter flywheel.

With tighter springs the clutch will engage at a higher rpm thus applying more power to the wheels at once and of course a faster take off from the line.
 
rbmaxxbasher said:
If you want your engine to rev faster and take off harder. tighten up the clutch spring / springs (whichever setup you have) and try a lighter flywheel.

With tighter springs the clutch will engage at a higher rpm thus applying more power to the wheels at once and of course a faster take off from the line.

So maybe I should look at installing a MIP Clutch on my RC10GT?
 
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