Mach 427 Heat issues?

[Mentat]

Just curious what the average temp i should be looking for on this engine? I am on the 3rd tank of break in and I'm just idling, its around 280ish, does this seem high? What is the MAX TEMP i can run safley? I am using the recommended plugs, its in the high 80's here and very humid. I have sealed the back plate and the carb neck (gasket seal stuff, maybe i should check it again). Everything is good a tight. I checked the tank for air leaks and the engine as well, i can not find any, and there is no extra fuel being spit out around the from bearings, or any other place. I am using Dynamite MC-59 McCoy Power Plug (DYN2508). Oh and the RTR mounts work like a charm with this engine and its pull start. I am just worried about the engine temps tho. Its a brand new engine. I posted in the engine forums and didnt get many replies, i have looked over everything posted about this engine. Any thing you guys can give me on this would be appreciated. Someone mentioned wrapping the head in foil, wouldnt that make it hotter? This is about the 3rd engine i have broken in for RC CARS, everything else had been Heli. Also can you use Short and Long plugs in this engine?

 

[Scrogg]

Use only long plugs in it. Short plugs will work but they slightly reduce compression. Mc-8 plugs will work, also the O'Donnell's purple will work too.
I do not see that engine running 280F, check your temp gun.
Almost every Mach 427 I have seen will vaporlock the carb @ 250F. You can literally see the heat from the engine push the fuel back into the tank through the fuel line.
If it is running that hot you need to richen it some and make sure your exhaust and fuel system are not leaking.
The Mach 427 runs best around 220-240F. Richen the LSN some and see if the temps come down without it stalling.
one more thing, that exhaust header spring is a bit crooked. Straighten it up so it does not cause the header to cut the gasket. It may just be an optical illusion from the camera though.

 

[Mentat]

Its a Dynamite Temp gun, its like a little pen light. Whats the best way to see if its calibrated correctly? Thanks for the quick reply I am new here, but am a long time member of RCU.

 

[Scrogg]

To check it you need to compare it to a high quality temp gun honestly. My Raytek is a decent gun and it reads higher than the top end temp guns. Does the manual for the temp gun say anything about it being calibrated? Most guns can't be calibrated.
You can boil water and check it by that, but most temp guns are progressively wrong. The higher the temp, the higher the false reading.
Honestly I do not think that engine would idle @ 280F, it would flame out.
Pull your glow plug and check to see if the element shows signs of a lean condition.

 

[Mentat]

plugs look brand new. I'm guessing the temp gun is wrong. ill find a way to test it, in the mean time ill try the spit test.

 

[Scrogg]

If it sounds good and it is spitting oil out of the pipe at idle, it's fine. When you start to drive the truck, just lean the HSN enough to get a decent top speed. Then lean the LSN enough to get a decent take-off without bogging down. Leave it like that for the first gallon and it will be a perfectly broken in engine.
You'll know when it gets too hot. It will shut off as soon as you let it try to idle after some hard running. That will mean it hit 250 or higher.
You can improve this engine's performance and fuel consumption as well as rid it of the vapor lock problem. The Sportwerks .26 carb is a direct swap. it's made by the same company. SH engines makes both Sportwerks and the Mach engines. Biggest improvement with the Sportwerks carb is that it has a heatshield to prevent the heat from the engine block transferring to the carb whereas the Mach carb does not. It also comes with different size venturi's for tuning to track conditions and fuel consumption.

 

[Mentat]

got a link for the carb?

 

[taz1175]

got a link for the carb?

Here ya go:
http://www.sportwerksrc.com/

This is the one I have on my 427 and I really like it.
http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK8108

I actually don't think that you should be messing with the LSN during break-in, I would leave it at factory setting which is 2 turns out from bottom. I would just do the 1/8 increments(1 hour each) clockwise on the HSN(4 turns out from bottom) until you reach your 5th tank of break-in to lean it out. The LSN is simply just for 'fine tuning' and the temps are going to be a little bit high during break-in, which is why you should take a break during each tank to let the engine cool down.

Here is the manual(operations guide) to help you along with any furtehr questions you may have, but don't be afraid to ask as well, we're all here to help ! It starts on pge 3.:thumbup:
http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/Operations_Guide_LST_2.pdf