Mabuchi Motors for oooold boat

[Penguin Fart Racing]

I just bought two totes full of used / wrecked stuff for $50. The vintage TAMIYA GJRE GAWM Speed Boat caught my eye. After being sunm and recovered it was in sorry shape. PIX of my gash patches soo. Motorcwas a MABUCHI RS-540SH- 7520 which I took apart, de-rusted, resolved and reassembled. WORKS ! In the box of junk was an absolutely WRECKED GRAUPNER heli. Took the motor ( SPEED 600 BB 7.2 vDC p/n 1787 ) apart. After de-rusting, pounding out the body shell dents and resoldering the armature leads it works. Will probably add bias ceramic caps to boot. Being a 540 size brushed, it might work in my resurrected FIRE HAWK. Any thoughts on the GRAUPNER motor and adding water cooling ? Rudder shaft will be greased uk brass and rudder will be airfoil-shaped brass. Motor and rudder shafts will be lubricated with DOW-CORNING high vacuum seal grease ( absolutely THE BESF STUFF if you can get it ). What size NiMH battery do you recommend? Might use an ESC, receiver, etc. lying around salvaged from a TRAXXAS car and some fast response high torque FUTABA servos from my hoard / stash. Any thoughts here ? Boat was poorly built before sinking. Stripped decals, used a witches brew of soft-scrub cleanser, CLR, and charcoal lighter fluid for cleaning wigh a SCOTCH-BRITE pad. Have yet to smooth out hull dents / dings with a bloc, of hardwood and a hair dryer. Dental, picks came in handy for old adhesive removal. Would appreciate any tips on parts placement so the boat won't list and tip over. Thank you for taking the time to read. this meandering. As a Chrmistry teacher, I found charcoal lighter is good for removing tape residue and brake fluid for removing paint and decals. CLR or LIME-AWAY removes the calcium carbonate of hard water scale and sometimes industrial wall cleaner TSP ( trisodium phosphate ) slowly removes rust since iron(III) phosphate is a bazillion times less soluble than iron(III) oxide.

 

[Doom!]

I know squat about boats but good job saving these to restore.

 

[Penguin Fart Racing]

I know squat about boats but good job saving these to restore.

Thank you. Now, if I could just "restore" my Life as easily.

 

[cbaker65]

I've done a Graupner motor conversion to a boat before ,I changed it from a 540 to a 700 turbo flex
to run twin 7.2 battery packs for 14.4 volts back in the day!..

 

[Chubaka]

Thank you. Now, if I could just "restore" my Life as easily.

seems like the harder you try the harder it fights?

Good choice to restore! Got any pics?

 

[biggman100]

. Any thoughts on the GRAUPNER motor and adding water cooling ?

Check into these guys and see about a water cooling jacket: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=Motor+Water+Cooling A 540 brushed motor is the same as a 3650 brushless, so any 3650 jacket should work, but make sure of the length on your motor first. If it is a 370/380, that might be a little harder to find a jacket for, but, OSE would have one if they exist.

Rudder shaft will be greased uk brass and rudder will be airfoil-shaped brass. Motor and rudder shafts will be lubricated with DOW-CORNING high vacuum seal grease ( absolutely THE BESF STUFF if you can get it ). What size NiMH battery do you recommend? Might use an ESC, receiver, etc. lying around salvaged from a TRAXXAS car and some fast response high torque FUTABA servos from my hoard / stash. Any thoughts here ?

If it an enclosed hull design, like most are, i wouldnt use a car ESC, as it may get too hot inside the sealed hull, and, if any moisture gets in, it may cause issues with it. I would look for a water cooled ESC. For brushed motors, this is the one i typically use: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=hh-DYNM2210 Marine ESC's are typically designed to run better in wet conditions, and inside sealed hulls. With either the ESC you have, or the one i listed, i would go with a 4000MAH or higher 7.2V. With the ESC i listed, it will work on a 2S lipo as well. If it is an open hull, then you will definitely want a marine ESC, as they are designed for those conditions, whereas most car ESC's are not really totally waterproof, as i recently found out. I had my Arrma hybrid flip down an embankment when i was trying to avoid a couple kids on bikes, and it ended up in a small pond, and by the time i recovered it (maybe 2 minutes tops), the Arrma BLX100 ESC i had in it was ruined. Thats the second car ESC i have had die this year from water. Honestly, about the only car ESC i have found that is almost truly waterproof are the 60A Hobby Wing's i use in my 2WD stuff. I run them in snow, water above the body multiple times, run them in huge puddles, and in the rain, and have only had an issue with one in 3 years, but that wasn't from the water. I forgot the fan was unplugged because i was programming it, and it was 80 degrees F out.

 

[Penguin Fart Racing]

Check into these guys and see about a water cooling jacket: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=Motor+Water+Cooling A 540 brushed motor is the same as a 3650 brushless, so any 3650 jacket should work, but make sure of the length on your motor first. If it is a 370/380, that might be a little harder to find a jacket for, but, OSE would have one if they exist.

If it an enclosed hull design, like most are, i wouldnt use a car ESC, as it may get too hot inside the sealed hull, and, if any moisture gets in, it may cause issues with it. I would look for a water cooled ESC. For brushed motors, this is the one i typically use: https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=hh-DYNM2210 Marine ESC's are typically designed to run better in wet conditions, and inside sealed hulls. With either the ESC you have, or the one i listed, i would go with a 4000MAH or higher 7.2V. With the ESC i listed, it will work on a 2S lipo as well. If it is an open hull, then you will definitely want a marine ESC, as they are designed for those conditions, whereas most car ESC's are not really totally waterproof, as i recently found out. I had my Arrma hybrid flip down an embankment when i was trying to avoid a couple kids on bikes, and it ended up in a small pond, and by the time i recovered it (maybe 2 minutes tops), the Arrma BLX100 ESC i had in it was ruined. Thats the second car ESC i have had die this year from water. Honestly, about the only car ESC i have found that is almost truly waterproof are the 60A Hobby Wing's i use in my 2WD stuff. I run them in snow, water above the body multiple times, run them in huge puddles, and in the rain, and have only had an issue with one in 3 years, but that wasn't from the water. I forgot the fan was unplugged because i was programming it, and it was 80 degrees F out.

Thanks for the insight ! You'd comments on Marine ESCS was most useful. With sooo many projects, I decided to visit my local hobby shop ( Dan's Hobby House of Wavearly ) and picked up what had on the shelf; TRAXXAS NAUTICA ESC and TRAXXIS BLAST COOLING KIT. TRAXXAS OEM trim tabs and turn fins left over after a SPARTAN upgrade with stuff from HOT RACING so will help with my FIRE HAWK restore. One thing ---》 Stripping the tattered FIRE HAWK decals showed the typical discoloration due to old age. Any ideas how I might bleach the hull back to WHITE ? Baring this, will repaint the hull BRIGHT ORANGE and BLACK to match my HARLEY STREET. PIX once the build is done, and the HAWK runs without plowing the silt on the bottom of my local pond Lastly, what if I took the MIDI OUT from my guitar synth and AUDRINO-ed it to a transmitter. Would love to see my RPVS "DANCE" to Albenis' ASTURIAS !

 

[biggman100]

Thanks for the insight ! You'd comments on Marine ESCS was most useful. With sooo many projects, I decided to visit my local hobby shop ( Dan's Hobby House of Wavearly ) and picked up what had on the shelf; TRAXXAS NAUTICA ESC and TRAXXIS BLAST COOLING KIT. TRAXXAS OEM trim tabs and turn fins left over after a SPARTAN upgrade with stuff from HOT RACING so will help with my FIRE HAWK restore. One thing ---》 Stripping the tattered FIRE HAWK decals showed the typical discoloration due to old age. Any ideas how I might bleach the hull back to WHITE ? Baring this, will repaint the hull BRIGHT ORANGE and BLACK to match my HARLEY STREET. PIX once the build is done, and the HAWK runs without plowing the silt on the bottom of my local pond Lastly, what if I took the MIDI OUT from my guitar synth and AUDRINO-ed it to a transmitter. Would love to see my RPVS "DANCE" to Albenis' ASTURIAS !

You could try some goo gone, but, read it carefully. I have never actually used it, so i dont know how it could potentially mess with the plastic (or is the Hawk wood? If it is the one I'm thinking of, it was plastic over foam, and yellow and white. That was my first boat). Best thing i can suggest is, if you have an old broken hull, or anything else made of the same material laying around, try it on that first. Some stain remover for automotive plastic may also work, but, again, i would try to test it first. Its a bit pricey, and they may not have anything that would work, but, look through Ammo NYC, and see what cleaners they have. They are one of the best automotive restorers and detailers on the planet. The reason i say look into automotive stuff, is because the paint and plastics used on cars, especially newer cars with plastic body panels, are similar to older ABS plastic used on some boats. As for taking the Midi out of the guitar, i have no clue if that would work or not, as i have never even seen one.

EDIT: Make sure you look for Goo Gone adhesive remover for plastic, not Goof Off. Goof Off is horrible on plastic. It discolors it, and can even melt it if too much is used. I learned that the hard way on a riding mower once.