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LST1 Pipe Issues

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http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB5061
this is the pipe I'm running right now. same as the one neo showed in the pic above except mine is a diff. color. this sucker seems to work really well with the spec3 and sounds awsome! its pretty loud and seems gives the mill a little bit more to breath with. and the stinger is in sync with the bottom of the chassis to, so no more high centering on curbs and jumps! WOOHOO!

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB5062
this is the peice that came stock on the AS. as far as I'm concerned, the only thing it has going for it is that it looks indestructible. as i found out, its not. especially when the front brace arm for the pipe breaks and the pipe drills into the ground and props the truck up on 2 tires. needles to say, the header was shot and the pipe was crunched. so i was "forced" to upgrade.....shucks i guess
 
Of course all this depends what kind characteristics you're looking to get out of your engine. I mean I've tried the Werks and the OFNA 086 on the spec3, and they worked really good too. strong bottom end, a little to strong for my needs. The HT pipe smoothes it out, which I like for running the LST on the track.

I think a 086 pipe might be a better way for you to go, as I think it will work good with both of thoose engines.
 
Of course all this depends what kind characteristics you're looking to get out of your engine. I mean I've tried the Werks and the OFNA 086 on the spec3, and they worked really good too. strong bottom end, a little to strong for my needs. The HT pipe smoothes it out, which I like for running the LST on the track.

I think a 086 pipe might be a better way for you to go, as I think it will work good with both of thoose engines.
Gottcha chuck , Neobart. I am a basher more than/racer at heart, but racings not out of the question, by far. This thread has turned in to something great for not only myself, but hopefully for other LST/AS owners that must of had to face these issues at one point or another. The Dyna 28 has a bogus 3.6 HP rating like all the manufactures put on there mills, it seems. But comparing it to the Dynamite 28 platinums, 3.8 HP, the mach 28 comes in just below @ 28,000 rpm's. That's not bad if the 28 platinum is equal to the LRP z28r spec.3, putting the mach 28 in a spec.2 class for a mere $150 street price. Is that a reasonable assumption?
 
I'm not sure if the mach .28 is equivalent to a SH.28 or a SH.28P6(LRP spec2). But you are right about the platinum being the same as the spec3, only much more expensive.
 
I think I'm going to stick the hpi polished pipe I've got on my Sav, and see how it fares w/ Dyna 28 mill. That should clear any doubt about what to expect from this pipe and complete the engine break-in process.
 
There's been changes in the quest

Of course all this depends what kind characteristics you're looking to get out of your engine. I mean I've tried the Werks and the OFNA 086 on the spec3, and they worked really good too. strong bottom end, a little to strong for my needs. The HT pipe smoothes it out, which I like for running the LST on the track.

I think a 086 pipe might be a better way for you to go, as I think it will work good with both of thoose engines.
Hey guys, after taking in as much as I could with all of your help here, There has been an unexpected develpement with my trucks. This doesn't change anything about the wierd pipe issue I faced with the LST. But, because of a great friend who disided to throw the rewards of good karma I must have earned from him, my way, I'm now a new OS 30 VG owner!..... I never did like supprises....Until now...This was totally the last thing I would expect to have happen in my life, I might add.... Now the Karma is in my friends court.... Here's what lead to this outcome. After chatting with all you guys here at RCN, I went out and did some ramp jumps with the intention of getting some serious air. The getting air part was real great.....The getting concrete part was real serious....lol..... Anyway, the truck demanded a rebuild with some bent TVP's, sprung bolt and screws, but no real damage or parts cost. Just a commitment of time to deal with it. The engine was running great and still was running after the hard landings. In fact, I had to kill the motor to bring it in for the bench. That's when I desided to do a propper seal on the mill. It had only four gallons through it or less. This, along with the truck rebuild. As I proceeded, I found that the k4,6 has been eating away at it's piston to the point of having only 15% of the piston skirt remainning. This subject is a different thread. Long story short, The mill now needs a new piston & sleeve. That's if I don't want to take any chances. Until then, the Dyna .28 is now being dropped into the savage, and the OS is now in the LST. == Question: Knowing the Dyna .28 will work well with the hpi polished pipe, I wondering if the pipe I found at my LHS will work well for the OS?... It's Brand and discription is an RDLoogics - One Piece Rear Exhaust System For 1/8th Off-Road - Part no. 61850. It's suited for the LST headder and appears to be much like the hpi's polished pipe, in general design. The main difference is the stinger is located on the side of the pipe, rather than pointing downward. Sorry for this sudden change in applications. I do know that J P pipes are commonly used with OS's, but this is my first .30 mill and I don't know what to to say about it, otherwise....I do figure the OS is a good thing. Maybe too good in the power for the LST's drive train...I wonder if the OS is suited better for my MGT? If you guys want to continue to share you insights on all this, all I could really say to that is, thank you.... I just wanted to give you guys an update to the quest I've been on, and maybe see it through with me. Anyhow,.. Have a good one to all at RCN.
 
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I'm really not sure on that pipe with the 30, but if it fits, it should be fine. you might have to do some body work for the stinger, but thats nothing a little bit of scissor work can't cure.
 
ah chuck3 he's talkin about the exhaust pipe exit point is on the side of the pipe. usually its on the bottom. this is where you could place a stinger so Colide the very exit point of the pipe would not be the stinger. OK sorry I just had to do that I'll shut up now. lol


SPORT PIPES ARE GOOD FOR MAKING WINDCHIMES!
 
Thanks chuck for the comment.I think the stinger is going to be fine. It's the side exhaust that's wierd to me. When breaking in a new mill, where does the pipe exit the build up of oils? I guess you have to keep clearing the excess by tilting the truck now and then. That's kind of laime when you think about it, but once past break-in, I would imagine it's not an issue.(I HOPE)

WINDCHIMES....lol. The guy who can make a windchime out of sport pipes would have to be dummer than dirt to have that many of them...
 
lol, windchimes.....

anyway, forgive me for i dont know much about that pipe. but since all of the pipes that i know of are round at the header and attach either by springs or by those rubber clamps, couldent you just turn the pipe to make the stinger face down? all you would have to do then is custom build a attachment for the front, and al you need for that is a wire clothes hanger and some needle nose pliers. in fact, i custom make all of my attachments out of clothes hanger wire because all of the ones that I've used stock have either been crap out of the box or broke after a little bit of bashing.
 
In theory, yes, but where the pressure fitting is will pose a problem with that pipe. Not necessarily a problem, but either his exhaust is spraying all over the side of the truck, shocks and tire (more so than normal) or you turn it and the pressure fitting is exposed to anything you hit the side of the truck with. With it on the side, rocks, sticks and whatnot can easily hit the pressure line and poke a hole in it. Then you will have a tuning headache to chase down.

Here's the pipe:
RDL61850-250.jpg
 
you know its funny you said that cuz I've broken 2 and found that there ALUMINUM (the wire end that holds the pipe) so yeah I made my own too. STEEL.yeah baby.

Colide if I took a hand out from people who hate there sport pipe I could in fact have enough to make a windchime and then sell it at a nitro R/C function like Hobbytown Race sday lolololol
 
I modified a savage spring mount. It raised the end of mine pipe half an inch so the stinger isn't so low and less likely to hit stuff. Also, the spring absorbs the impact from jumps, so it's less likely to break.

I modified a HPI spring type pipe hanger for mine. It raises the end of the pipe about 1/2 inch which makes it less likely to hit stuff and tweak the stinger or header. Also, the spring absorbs the shock from jumps and is less likely to break.

2007-0704-ASPipeHangerHPI.jpg


Don't ask about the set screw... I lost mine and I was mad at a RPM turnbuckle that broke on my LST arms. That was the remaining stub I had to dremel out of my 45 minute old RPM arms. I ground it flat and put a hole in it. Now it's my set screw.
 
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That's a very good point, Chuck3. And no appologies nessessary. When I first examined the pipes appearance, I noted that I could simply drill a second hole at the tip of the pipes front mounting point on a 45 degree angle and then have the stinger pointing downward like it would normally be, but then the presure return outlet nipple would now be on the outside of the pipe and would likely be in harms way from a side swiping type of damage. Mounting the the pipe seems easy enough. Your right about the LOSI mounting wire being weak and breakable. I found that the hpi savage spring to be tough as nails. I'll have to try the coat hanger matterial. thanksfor the tip, chuck3.

In theory, yes, but where the pressure fitting is will pose a problem with that pipe. Not necessarily a problem, but either his exhaust is spraying all over the side of the truck, shocks and tire (more so than normal) or you turn it and the pressure fitting is exposed to anything you hit the side of the truck with. With it on the side, rocks, sticks and whatnot can easily hit the pressure line and poke a hole in it. Then you will have a tuning headache to chase down.

Here's the pipe:
RDL61850-250.jpg
You found it Olds. Thats the pipe I found at the LHS and went ahead and grabbed it for $42.00 + tax. I also picked up a silicon singer extention to help address the direction of the fuel oil spewwing. After more thought, I figure that this purticular pipe is probably best suited for an MGT due to the fact the the MGT's tub style chassis has the pipe riding in the inside of chassis, leaving more room for natural protection. The irony here is that the sport pipe I have would be pprobably alright if it wasn't f%$# up. I do have an MGT and figure getting this new pipe won't be a wash. Do you have any opinion on the quality and application of this pipe with the OS 30, Olds? If not, do you think maybe neobart might have something to include? Anyway, Thanks again for the tips, guys.
 
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I modified a savage spring mount. It raised the end of mine pipe half an inch so the stinger isn't so low and less likely to hit stuff. Also, the spring absorbs the impact from jumps, so it's less likely to break.

I modified a HPI spring type pipe hanger for mine. It raises the end of the pipe about 1/2 inch which makes it less likely to hit stuff and tweak the stinger or header. Also, the spring absorbs the shock from jumps and is less likely to break.

2007-0704-ASPipeHangerHPI.jpg


Don't ask about the set screw... I lost mine and I was mad at a RPM turnbuckle that broke on my LST arms. That was the remaining stub I had to dremel out of my 45 minute old RPM arms. I ground it flat and put a hole in it. Now it's my set screw.
Real nice mod, Olds. They get the job done. thanks for sharing them here. Looks like you and chuck3 are on the same page here with the hanger coiling method. All my hangers are those thick-A$$ plastic ones...lol. I'm sure if I look hard enough, I'll find one for sure.

you know its funny you said that cuz I've broken 2 and found that there ALUMINUM (the wire end that holds the pipe) so yeah I made my own too. STEEL.yeah baby.

Colide if I took a hand out from people who hate there sport pipe I could in fact have enough to make a windchime and then sell it at a nitro R/C function like Hobbytown Race sday lolololol
Of course you know, I'll be sending you my sport pipe savagecre.
 
Nope. I know nothing about the OS30. I do know that the HPI polished pipe works well with the OS 21 RG, SH28, XTM 24.7, M26SS, Mach 427 and LRP28.

But then again, by working well, I know it works better (or seems to) than what came stock on the trucks the engines were in.

The M26SS was my aftershock. The 21RG I ran with a composite savage pipe, HPI ribbed pipe and the polished pipe. It ran best with the polished pipe.

The SH28 and M26SS I tried both with the HPI ribbed, but both liked the polished pipe better.
 
Thanks again, Olds my friend. From what you've compared here, I think I'm on the right track. I'll be keeping my ears peeled for more on this thread.
 
I've been having problems with my lst, when i start it i leave the igniter in it and runs like a animal, i take it out runs til about half throttle then stalls, I've tried messin with the carb more times then i could say, i just built a track in my yard, and everybody ridin it but me, i need help
 
Hey dano17. Wecome to RCN forums. Answering you question is not a problem. Based on my experience, When an Glow Plug Igniter keeps a plug glowing hot, but stops, or deminishes profromance when removed, that's an indication that you need to replace the plug, I hoped that helped, Dano17.
 
i got the truck to run the problem was the clutch shoes two out of three were broke, they were holding back the motor at low speeds, new problem put new shoes and springs on and runs perfect but it seems to be stuck in second gear, revs high takes off alittle slow then she rips. any suggestions? I'm new to nitro trucks but hooked, ill post pics of my track.
 
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