• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Build Thread Losi XXX-SCT Resto and Upgrade Build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Very neat 👌

Is the slipper left exposed on them?
No, I have a cover for it. It was actually the hardest part to locate.
20250227_191323.webp
 
Time for some body work.

The decals and window masks that come with the body. Notice there are no splash graphics with this, yet every picture of this body out there shows them on it 🤔
20250303_234120.webp


And the body. I traced around the cut line so my messed up eyes can see it.
20250303_234141.webp

20250303_234152.webp

20250303_234208.webp


The number boards came with a couple extras. One in each wheel opening. Then the two wings were located under the rear of the body.
20250304_003214.webp


This is some tough lexan. 1mm thick.
20250304_003000.webp


After trimming most of the bidy with scissors, I scribed the wheel openings with the X-acto then cut some relief cuts with the scissors. Shorter spread in the tighter corners. You want the snap line to be fairly straight. Too big a spread in the radius and it will be harder to snap.
20250304_000956.webp

20250304_001028.webp

20250304_001107.webp


Once it was all roughed in, it was time for a test fit.
20250304_004754.webp


The rear cutout needed to be cut about 1/8" past the line to get the body far enough forward for the body to rest over the front bumper. That's to be expected since this is a body that fits multiple chassis'.
Untitled871_20250304071048.webp


From there I could pop the body pins in. I am a little ticked off that the front ones are shifted towards the driver side slightly, but this body seemed to have a bit of a twist to it. The right rear needed to be stretched backwards a bit to get it to lay correctly. Forcing the front to pull to the right side. If I try to open the holes leftish to center them better, the body will still pull to the right. But it's only off by about a half millimeter or so, so hell with it.
20250304_063411.webp

20250304_063505.webp


The rear came out pretty good.
20250304_063439.webp


Ready for sanding the edges in. Ugh. That's going to be fun.
Untitled870_20250304065127.webp
 
Final prep work before cleaning.

I went around the entire profile with a drum sander on my Milwaukee, being very careful to only climb cut, where the drum is trying to pull you in one direction. Let it pull you. Never drive backwards unless you have to, as it can dig in.
20250304_084815.webp


Starting at the rear.
20250304_094113.webp


For the wheel openings I get it close, then come back with 220 grit and bring it in by hand. I don't like rough edges.
20250304_094123.webp


Got the rear of the truck done with my sanding stick and the 220.
20250304_054248.webp

20250304_094135.webp


Pretty smooth.
20250304_094159.webp


Front turned out pretty good. I use the long sanding stick here to keep it flat. The plastic film is kinda hanging out here, making it look like it's not perfect, but it is.
20250304_094209.webp


Almost done.
20250304_094705.webp


Here you can see the finished edge.
20250304_094709.webp


I go all the way around the outside, with the sanding stick, cutting an angle to slice the excess film off the outside. It has 180 grit on it. Then I go back with the folded 220 grit and do the inside and outside edges again, basically rounding the edges over.

After that is done I take some 400 grit and smooth things up a bit further. If you feel any sharp edges. Or any film hanging off the edge, you're not done.
 
Screws should be here tomorrow, I hope. But I have a Tekno to build first. Then this goes back on the bench. All needed parts are here otherwise.
Nice high quality build, that meticulous detail makes my redneck head spin, very nice, high caliber rig.
 
Back to the repair of the nerf bar hole. The JB Weld worked great, except I punched a tiny hole through the chassis 🤬

Oh well. I fixed that with JB Weld too 😅

JB weld setup great. First I filed it flush with the top of the chassis. Then I set the nerf bar in place and put the two screws in the front of the nerf bar to locate the third hole, and used the rear hole as a guide to just start an oversize drill bit on center. Then drilled through the entire chassis with a tap drill, and the screw threaded right in.
20250304_124455.webp

Untitled873_20250304130217.webp
 
I like how you did that wire for the on/off switch
Thanks. I just wrapped it around my Dynamite 2.5mm hex wrench like a barber pole.
 
Got the rest of the parts in for this, as well as the Tekno pivot balls!

20250304_134946.webp


So I had to see what the mud flaps looked like on it.
20250304_140425.webp

20250304_141508.webp


Also got the 4-40 nuts in so I could mount the front body mount properly.
20250304_141518.webp


And because I wanted to test the fitment of the aluminum servo mounts, I went ahead and left them in so I wouldn't misplace them. Still waiting another couple weeks before I can place my Amain order to get a servo.
20250304_141653.webp


But everything is done except a servo. I might grab an aluminum horn as well.
 
The battery strap for this truck has a step down into the battery compartment by 2.8mm.
20250305_175236.webp


A 25mm battery wouldn't fit without bowing the battery strap upwards. So I designed a new one without that step down and gained 2.8mm of extra headroom, and added some taller support ribs on the top. As you can see, the bottom is now flat.
20250305_175243.webp


The Tekin 25mm battery now fits in there with room for neoprene underneath it.
20250305_091702.webp

20250305_091708.webp


Now I just need to find some more foam spacers somewhere.
 
The battery strap for this truck has a step down into the battery compartment by 2.8mm. A 25mm battery wouldn't fit without bowing the battery strap upwards. So I designed a new one without that step down and gained 2.8mm of extra headroom. The Tekin 25mm battery now fits in there with room for neoprene underneath it.
View attachment 224089
View attachment 224090

Now I just need to find some more foam spacers somewhere.
very nice!
 
Got the rest of the parts in for this, as well as the Tekno pivot balls!

View attachment 223960

So I had to see what the mud flaps looked like on it.
View attachment 223961
View attachment 223962

Also got the 4-40 nuts in so I could mount the front body mount properly.
View attachment 223963

And because I wanted to test the fitment of the aluminum servo mounts, I went ahead and left them in so I wouldn't misplace them. Still waiting another couple weeks before I can place my Amain order to get a servo.
View attachment 223964

But everything is done except a servo. I might grab an aluminum horn as well.
Yeah! those mud flaps are cool, the real deal!
 
Final prep work before cleaning.

I went around the entire profile with a drum sander on my Milwaukee, being very careful to only climb cut, where the drum is trying to pull you in one direction. Let it pull you. Never drive backwards unless you have to, as it can dig in.
View attachment 223934

Starting at the rear.
View attachment 223935

For the wheel openings I get it close, then come back with 220 grit and bring it in by hand. I don't like rough edges.
View attachment 223936

Got the rear of the truck done with my sanding stick and the 220.
View attachment 223942
View attachment 223937

Pretty smooth.
View attachment 223938

Front turned out pretty good. I use the long sanding stick here to keep it flat. The plastic film is kinda hanging out here, making it look like it's not perfect, but it is.
View attachment 223939

Almost done.
View attachment 223940

Here you can see the finished edge.
View attachment 223941

I go all the way around the outside, with the sanding stick, cutting an angle to slice the excess film off the outside. It has 180 grit on it. Then I go back with the folded 220 grit and do the inside and outside edges again, basically rounding the edges over.

After that is done I take some 400 grit and smooth things up a bit further. If you feel any sharp edges. Or any film hanging off the edge, you're not done.
Perfection sir!!! There’s no other way, than with the paper and stick you’ve used imo. Top notch results. 🤩🍻
 
Perfection sir!!! There’s no other way, than with the paper and stick you’ve used imo. Top notch results. 🤩🍻
Thanks dude. It's been a really fun build.
 
It looks like its been fun too! 😎👍
Nice job on the chassis repair.
The body looks fantastic! 😍
Thanks man. I'm sure I'll screw up the paint though 😜
 
Thanks man. I'm sure I'll screw up the paint though 😜
Shameless imaginational plug
Buy limited edition Bomb Pop RCT stickers,.50 percent goes to Bomb Pop team and the other 50 goes to @WickedFog to supply us all with quality professional painters 😄
 
Shameless imaginational plug
Buy limited edition Bomb Pop RCT stickers,.50 percent goes to Bomb Pop team and the other 50 goes to @WickedFog to supply us all with quality professional painters 😄
This sounds like a SCAM!!! 😲
How much faster will my car go if I install a whole set? Do thry have to be mounted to the chassis or will they work if I stick them all over the body? 🤔
I'm watching you!!! 👀
 
Back
Top