Build Thread Losi XXX-SCT Resto and Upgrade Build

[WickedFog]

Time to assemble the rear clip. This is a really interesting design. Lots of crazy parts in this one.

I goofed up and forgot to put the inboard hinge pin support in (see pic above). Fortunately it wasn't too bad to get the trans back off.

 

[WickedFog]

Time to fit it to the chassis. I was going to put the arms on beforehand, but the pins are easy to slide in through the chassis. Another interesting design where the rear of the battery tray is open.

No, really I forgot to put them on and realized it after I bolted the rear clip to the chassis But that was when I realized the pins would easily go in through the battery tray. Makes swapping arms super easy!

Fun bit coming up

 

[9x19]

Bummer on the screwz... but it looks good anyway!

 

[WickedFog]

Time for some sway bar action. I was lucky as hell to find this. Tony's Hobbies out in California had one, but I missed it. Then this one turned up at Meadow Ridge Trains & Hobbies in St Louis. It's a really sweet setup. Very nice components in this kit.

Installed the mounting posts and clamps, but left the screws loose.

Got the end links together. I think I'll start out with the medium bar here (black one).

Getting the swivel ball clamps in these was easy. But getting the ball studs in was going to be a bit more difficult, especially when installed in the arm because the inner arm surface is angled. So pliers were out. So I screwed the stud in a spot easy to get to - the nerf bar mounting holes. Then I just pressed the rod end down with my Dynamite driver. See the ring in the face of the rod end? This is one universal standard with nearly every rod end out there. That side ALWAYS gets installed towards the ball.

Quick press to snap them on.

Links complete.

Attach the end link to the arms.

Place the sway bar in the grooves.

Attach it to the end links. The sway bar end is perfectly flush with the end of the swivel ball clamp.

Rotate the post clamps over the sway bar and install the screws. Run the set screws down so they touch the sway bar, then back them off so the sway bar spins freely.

All finished. Sweet setup!

 

[WickedFog]

Bummer on the screwz... but it looks good anyway!

Yeah, it worked out. Some of the other screws are a little crusty. But for the most part, they just need a good cleaning. I don't have many SAE fasteners on hand, so I'm going to soak the leftovers in some PB blaster after this build is done.

 

[WickedFog]

I started working on getting the rear axles, links, and carriers on. This simple process quickly turned into a two hour ordeal.

Before I got to that, I noticed I had missed the shock tower brace, so I installed that.

This shock tower is laminated between the trans case in the rear, and held there with a long screw going through a tab on the shock tower, then through the transmission, then the other shock tower tab, then through the metal motor plate. Then it has two screws in the front at the base of the shock tower. Then it has one going through the chassis into the bottom. Then this crazy X-brace. I have never seen a 1/10 plastic shock tower held in so well. This takes a bit of work to remove, obviously. This will be appreciated later.

From there I installed the carriers, and popped the inboard bearings into them. I went to put the bearings in the outer journals and the right side one was loose and would fall out if turned upside down. Grrr. I had already swapped that one with a spare one I had, so it turns out the spare was bad as well

So, I remove the e-clip, yank it out, and see what I could come up with. I found some replacements online, but I have to wait to order them.

In the meantime, I wanted to try something sillly. I laminated a strip of paper into the bearing journal with some CA, because it was really loose. This ridiculous shim idea actually worked

It's the craziest hack job I've ever done to an RC, and it was just so I can continue putting this kit together, but I actually wouldn't be scared to run it, and I think I will. The bearing is in there really snug So I reinstalled the carrier and carriered on

I put the axles in, and went to attach the upper links, and noticed the camber was going to be way too far positive. Crap! I must have put the links in the wrong hole on the shock tower, even though I could see the holes that were used.

So, I had to remove the shock tower for like the 37th time to move the links, thinking I mounted them too far inboard. I moved them to the center hole and reinstalled the shock tower.

Then I found the camber to be better, but my axle pins didn't sit far enough into the outdrives

Upon looking at the original pic before teardown, the carriers needed to be mounted in the inboard hole location. DOH! Curse you Losi and your terrible exploded view!

So guess what had to happen? The e-clips on the carriers needed removed, then moved inboard, then the shock tower had to come out again so I could move the upper links back where they were. Uggh!

FINALLY - Problem solved.

Next up is the steering rack, which got me thinking... I haven't grabbed a servo for this yet

 

[CertifiedMike]

I started working on getting the rear axles, links, and carriers on. This simple process quickly turned into a two hour ordeal.

Before I got to that, I noticed I had missed the shock tower brace, so I installed that.
View attachment 223264

This shock tower is laminated between the trans case in the rear, and held there with a long screw going through a tab on the shock tower, then through the transmission, then the other shock tower tab, then through the metal motor plate. Then it has two screws in the front at the base of the shock tower. Then it has one going through the chassis into the bottom. Then this crazy X-brace. I have never seen a 1/10 plastic shock tower held in so well. This takes a bit of work to remove, obviously. This will be appreciated later.

From there I installed the carriers, and popped the inboard bearings into them. I went to put the bearings in the outer journals and the right side one was loose and would fall out if turned upside down. Grrr. I had already swapped that one with a spare one I had, so it turns out the spare was bad as well

So, I remove the e-clip, yank it out, and see what I could come up with. I found some replacements online, but I have to wait to order them.

In the meantime, I wanted to try something sillly. I laminated a strip of paper into the bearing journal with some CA, because it was really loose. This ridiculous shim idea actually worked
View attachment 223256
It's the craziest hack job I've ever done to an RC, and it was just so I can continue putting this kit together, but I actually wouldn't be scared to run it, and I think I will. The bearing is in there really snug So I reinstalled the carrier and carriered on

I put the axles in, and went to attach the upper links, and noticed the camber was going to be way too far positive. Crap! I must have put the links in the wrong hole on the shock tower, even though I could see the holes that were used.
View attachment 223265

So, I had to remove the shock tower for like the 37th time to move the links, thinking I mounted them too far inboard. I moved them to the center hole and reinstalled the shock tower.

Then I found the camber to be better, but my axle pins didn't sit far enough into the outdrives

Upon looking at the original pic before teardown, the carriers needed to be mounted in the inboard hole location. DOH! Curse you Losi and your terrible exploded view!

So guess what had to happen? The e-clips on the carriers needed removed, then moved inboard, then the shock tower had to come out again so I could move the upper links back where they were. Uggh!

FINALLY - Problem solved.
View attachment 223266

Next up is the steering rack, which got me thinking... I haven't grabbed a servo for this yet

I shizzit you not... I JUST shimmed my alum front carrier bearings with newspaper for the same stupid reason!!! I thought I was so clever!!!

 

[WickedFog]

I shizzit you not... I JUST shimmed my alum front carrier bearings with newspaper for the same stupid reason!!! I thought I was so clever!!!

I was pretty proud of myself for getting it laminated in there so well. But I did cut the paper a little too short, but I wasn't about to pull it out.

Time to do the steering bellcrank.

First up, install the front bulkhead.

The bellcrank components.

Install the connecting rod.

Place the guide pin in the right boss.

Slide the bellcrank assembly down iver the pin and locate the pin in the left bellcrank in the other boss.

Install the top clamp on the bellcrank and the front end top cover.

 

[WickedFog]

Time for the front assembly. This rig has a very complex front end setup. Lots of parts, just like the rear, and it has to be assembled in a particular order.

Install the front shock tower, but leave out the top two screws.

I'll be installing the front anti-roll bar in this step too, and will be going with the heavier bar this time.

This one is a lot simpler to install.

After installing the end link pins in the arms, I noticed the bar had a burr on one end. A quick twist in some 600 grit cleared that up.

The first step is attaching the arms to the hinge pin mount.

The front sway bar kit replaces the front hinge pin brace.

Slide the end link pins into holes in the arms.

From there, install the ends of the sway bar into the holes in the pins.

Place the front of the sway bar into the v-groove in the front of the brace and put a little loctite on these tiny screws.

When installing the screws, make sure the e-clips are rotated so the opening of the clip is towards the washers. If not the washers will clamp on top of the e-clips.

Assemble the lower skid to the front brace.

Place the arm assembly into the upper support from the underside of the vehicle.

Install the skid plate and front brace.

Install the top brace and front bumper. I love the way this front end looks like it can take a hit and bounce off. It is a really slick design.

Next up, installing upper front links and c-hubs and spindles, along with the front bumper. I can't upload any more pics in this post .

 

[WickedFog]

I guess I spaced it and didn't take many pics on this step

Front bumper installed.

The components in this step.

Space time begins. I'm in a zone. Next thing you know, I'm installing the set screws on the axles.

Front end complete..

 

[WickedFog]

Time for shocks and body mounts

Rear shock get a spacer and swivel. The screws go through the body mount, so it was added in this atep.

The rears now have an aluminum lower mount, so a drop of loctite is needed here.

And that's that.

Starting on the front with the lower shock mount with a 4-40 through the arm.

The front mounts the same way up top. The body mount up front mounts a little differently, and is a much weaker design I think. I just know this shock tower is going to break just like it iroginally was

on a hard front end hit.

This kit is missing some little 4-40 specialty nuts that happen to still be used by other kits, so I'll have to grab those ftom Amain.

Time to install the body posts.

That was the plan. But I went ahead and threw the wheels on along with the nerf bars and gear cover. I'm really thrilled with how well this kit came out.

@Mrgoodwrench35 - look at her now bro.

I may start the motor and ESC install tomorrow, but I don't know. We shall see.

 

[Warby]

Time for shocks and body mounts
View attachment 223318
View attachment 223319

Rear shock get a spacer and swivel. The screws go through the body mount, so it was added in this atep.
View attachment 223320

The rears now have an aluminum lower mount, so a drop of loctite is needed here.
View attachment 223321

And that's that.
View attachment 223322

Starting on the front with the lower shock mount with a 4-40 through the arm.
View attachment 223323

The front mounts the same way up top. The body mount up front mounts a little differently, and is a much weaker design I think. I just know this shock tower is going to break just like it iroginally was

on a hard front end hit.
View attachment 223324

This kit is missing some little 4-40 specialty nuts that happen to still be used by other kits, so I'll have to grab those ftom Amain.
View attachment 223325

Time to install the body posts.
View attachment 223326

That was the plan. But I went ahead and threw the wheels on along with the nerf bars and gear cover. I'm really thrilled with how well this kit came out.

@Mrgoodwrench35 - look at her now bro.
View attachment 223327
View attachment 223328
View attachment 223329

I may start the motor and ESC install tomorrow, but I don't know. We shall see.

Slow down Roadrunner. You are speeding through this build. Makes my build look like it's in slow motion.

 

[WickedFog]

Slow down Roadrunner. You are speeding through this build. Makes my build look like it's in slow motion.

Well, I've been gathering parts for a LOT longer than you. I started this build like a year ago

 

[Warby]

Well, I've been gathering parts for a LOT longer than you. I started this build like a year ago

True. Still, slow down.

 

[Littlemotor]

Coming along super nicely man!!! Killer dammit job sir!!

 

[WickedFog]

So I got the motor mounted. I was thinking if mounting the ESC on the left side of the vehicle, so I cut the original ESC bosses off.

But then I got to thinking- with the motor hanging out on the left side, it might help balance it out to move the ESC to the right, so I did all that for nothing

What do you guys think? I really wish I had that SkyRC corner weight system.

 

[Warby]

So I got the motor mounted. I was thinking if mounting the ESC on the left side of the vehicle, so I cut the original ESC bosses off.
View attachment 223358
View attachment 223359

But then I got to thinking- with the motor hanging out on the left side, it might help balance it out to move the ESC to the right, so I did all that for nothing

What do you guys think? I really wish I had that SkyRC corner weight system.
View attachment 223360

I was about to say "it depends on the size/weight of the battery", but its dead centre.

 

[9x19]

Mounted at the rear of the 2wd chassis, I don't think you'll notice a huge difference in handling regardless which side it's on.

 

[CertifiedMike]

The scales would be helpful for me right now too. Just have no phone to use it with right now.
I think you'll prob be ok mounting it where you have it.
We never used scales to set up cars years ago and still managed to have lots of fun!

 

[WickedFog]

Electronics in, except for the servo. I'll be ordering that this Thursday. Other than that, I need to try to fix one of the bosses on the chassis. I guess I'm going to try JB Weld. I have tried UV resin, and it doesn't stick to this plastic, so it must be nylon or something. It isn't ABS, so I dunno what else it might be.

But if I can't fix it I'll just pop a screw through there and glue it in place. Anyway, here she is.

She's basically done besides the servo and body. I'll get the body trimmed and mounted today. Paint will be handled later, when I paint the body for the Tekno. Working on a paint scheme for this one.