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longer run times for my rc18t

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a dawg

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how can i get longer run times. i don't really want to put much more money into it. what kind of battery should i get that will last awhile and maybe inexpensive. also would a brushless motor help. i wouldn't mind a little more power but not too much where the front wheels won't stay on the ground.
 
brushless motors will definately take you straight out of the inexpensive shop and into a "check and go". Lithium-poly batts are the new craze, they are small, light, and last way longer than a traditional NI-Mh, or Ni-Cad. But they too are pretty expensive, I've think I've seen them around 55-65 dollars or something like that. I don't know what your runnin now but you can find some longer running Ni-Mh, that would be your best bet if your not lookin to spend a lot of cashola.
 
I'm running a brushless on a 3 cell lipo, on soft street tires, and it won't pull the front wheels up unless it hits a bump. The traction is awesome, but so is the truck...4wd rocks! It's crazy fast. It's 1/8 onroad fast.

You said you didn't want to put much more money into it, but then you asked about a brushless system....how much money do you want to spend? Also with a brushelss you need at least GP1100's or LiPo's for it to work right (with the Mamba), so that's another cost.

If you're just looking for more runtime, get a pack of GP1100's. They're great batteries and have good runtimes. You can pick a pack up for about $20.
 
Lessen said:
There a bunch of mamba kits on ebay starting at $100 (see, not cheap)


mamba kits are brushless? i really don't mind spening $150. anything more i don't really want to go there. i guess i should of stated this in the first thread. so now what would you guys reccomend and let me know where i can find them. how long will the Lithium-poly bats last as compared to the NI-Mh, or Ni-Cad. thanks for all your guys help.
 
a dawg said:
how long will the Lithium-poly bats last as compared to the NI-Mh, or Ni-Cad.

that's a good question. I'd like to know the difference as well. I have a mini-T with a Baja motor and 7.2v 1200mah bat. I'm gettin about 10-15 minutes. 1/18th's are badass with brushless motors, here, check this out

brushless mini-t vids
 
Lessen said:
that's a good question. I'd like to know the difference as well. I have a mini-T with a Baja motor and 7.2v 1200mah bat. I'm gettin about 10-15 minutes. 1/18th's are badass with brushless motors, here, check this out

brushless mini-t vids


yeah i saw those vids. thats what i want my rc18t to do.
 
PiErow said:
which lipo will fit in a rc18t?

As far as I know, none without a little modifying. I'm running Thunder Power packs, only because they're narrower than the rest I've seen. They're very close to being the same width of the stock pack...but the stock pack is such a tight fit that anything wider won't fit.

What I did was cut the outer lip off of the chassis on the battery side so that now it's just flat. I covered the inside with heavy duty Velcro and that's how I keep my packs down. They fit perfect....just to the edge of the chassis.

I've heard of instead of cutting the outer edge of the chassis, some people are cutting away the inside lip near the center driveshaft (the blue aluminum one) and it fits in that way...but to me that's kinda stupid seeing that now the battery rests against the driveshaft as it's spinning...obviously not good.

My Velcro setup works great. I've rolled the crap out of my truck and the battery has never come loose. It even takes a little bit of work for me to remove it intentionally!

If you're looking to upgrade your motor and esc, IMO it's a complete waste of money to not go brushless. For just about the same amount of money, sometimes less, you can have a brushless system that is way faster and maintainance free, more efficient (more power and longer runtimes) and just plain cool.
 
I have one question. What does the number for the mamba means?

I saw 5400, 6800, and 8000.
 
alright, what brushless motor do you guys reccomend then. and GilBeQuick the velcro idea is great. and how much run time do you get off of that battery.
 
the higher the number the faster the maximum rpm. Think of it as an electrical redline. Ther'es a link on the castle creations site that gives estimates of top speeds with the different packages w/ different battery option. They even say that the 8000 is almost useless for racing applications unless you're going to a somewhat large oval track. The 8000 will put a mini-t to over 60 mph with 3 cell lipo and stock gearing. Unless you're a super speed freak I think the 5400 or 6800 would be more than sufficient, and plenty of fun.
 
what all do you have to do to fit the new motor. it is just bolt on. or do you have to do a bit of work to get it to fit right.
 
Dang, don't have time right now....I'll try to get some pics by tomorrow. I've got a ThunderPower 860mah and a 1320mah.
I just read somewhere that a "Poly-Quest" lipo is a direct fit. I haven't seen those though.
 
I am currently running the RC18T with Mamba Brushless (Competition X Package which has the 8000 motor = 60mph) with the stock 12t pinion. I have run the stock pack (Nimh 1100s) which is good for about 10-12 minutes depending on how much throttle you are grabbing. I also have two sets of Li-poly packs. The first is a 2 cell 7.4v 1900Mah (connected via Ultra Deans) pack which is good for about 25 minutes of track time....when I say track time I mean actually racing around a track full tilt and with the 8000 motor I am never grabbing more than 40% of the throttle even on the straights.

The second pack is a 3 cell Li-poly 11.1v 2450 Mah (connected via Ultra Deans) and I am currently wedging the battery in and using a foam pad with the stock battery bar to hold it in place. After reading about the velcro idea i am going to do that for sure. Well with the 11.1v pack you better watch out because the RC18t even with the 12t pinion is capable of extremely fast speeds. At my local track I can keep up with all the cars including the mods & nitro as long as I bring my A-game. The run time is around 40-50 minutes on a race track.

I actually need to gear down a tooth for some more torque but the only pinion below the stock is the 11t pinion. I will report back and let you know how the 11t pinion works tomorrow night during race night. I am going to unleash the fury on the track!
 
yeah you get tired after about 20 minutes....I was looking around the driver stand with this expression "Does anyone wanna drive this little bish? I was tired of driving....checked the li-poly temps after 45 minutes of run time and I got 110 degrees which is well within range.....the max you want with li-poly is 140
 
Mambas and numbers

MyJeep said:
I have one question. What does the number for the mamba means?

I saw 5400, 6800, and 8000.


With the Mamba 5400 you get(no load rating)5400rpm/volt,of the extreme side you have the 8000,this is 8000rpm/volt!

Now say you are just using a six cell 2/3 A pack(1.2V per cell).7.2V

8000 x 7.2 and we have 57600rpm! This is in the best conditions IF the motor does in fact spin at 8000rpm with 1 Volt and so forth.

With real world loads and changing load conditions,even a true 30000rpm is someting to behold.Now With Li-Po packs and higher voltages these brushless are atomic spinners.Sending minis beyond 60MPH!

One thing is for sure,no brushed can stand the extreme RPM of brushless motors for more than a few seconds.Often drag brushed motors spin well over 60000rpm for a few seconds.

The VooDoo Black Magic low turn motors claimed over 100000rpm(for a few seconds before the comm and armature heat had the better of it).
 
hey i am ready to get a rc18mt and i am going to get the mamba comp x package and i want to get li-po's. could someone give me a link to a battery pack and the charger for them.preferrably more mah's.

thanks,
tyler
 
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