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Liquid mask OVER paint

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Lessen

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So rather than test it out I thought maybe somebody else has attempted this. I want to know if liquid mask will safely pull off of a painted lexan surface without any damage to the paint, especially if the surface underneath is only lightly painted.. like a drop shadow or something of the like.
 
I was honestly just getting ready to post this very question. I keep telling myself the mask will adhere itself to the paint....
 
I dont use the liquid mask but if the is any solvents in it at all. Then it will adhere and enough to lift a thin layer of paint I'm sure. I would definitly try it on a scrap piece to satisfiy my curiousity.:D
 
I'm pretty sure there are no solvents in it. I've always thought it's like 96% Elmers glue :shrug:

It really does not have an extremely strong bond so I'm think it may work. This is almost a necessity when you want to put drop shadows or any kind of freehand soft edging over more complex things.
 
I have never done it, I always felt it would lift at the very least some paint, especially if using a water based acrylic. I think you may have a better chance of getting away with it if the paint you were going over was a lacquer based paint, and it had a few days to bond to the lexan.
 
Well, I guess I'll have to just test it out but my findings may not help you guys since I DO use laquers. If this would work it will make life much much easier :)
 
i've was wondering this exact question a few days ago....i was wondering because i wanted to lay down some lightning then mask over top of it to lay down some flames.

it would be really nice if it would work...
 
Ok guys heres what i found out from the manufactures recomondations parma liquid mask its waterbase and can be applied to any nonpoures surface or finish. hope this helps.:D
 
Now I'll lay LM over this and do all the other stuff. If the LM peels away from the painted surfaces cleanly this is a major advantage because one would only need to do the drop shadows once instead of everytime (and trying to match them) you painted a different background.

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Here you can see my scores over the painted areas. Hopefully these won't be visible later. I tried to go over those areas lightly.

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OK, so if you look at the above photo you can see this is totally doable. When I peeled the LM from the soft painted area it pulled up absolutely nothing from what I could see. The soft flow of the starburst looks to be 100% intact. I'll post up a finished photo of this test later this evening if I get a chance to finish it.
 
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Well unfortunately the score lines are clearly visible when you're close up.. but from a few feet away you can't tell at all. I think the key is just to go VERY VERY light with the blade over areas of no color break.


...and yes Gabe, I used your paint scheme as the guinea pig for this. I will be changing this slightly as not everything turned out as expected.

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So no pulling/peeling huh?
 
Yes. Bottom line is that the LM does not pull up the paint. However, I think you have to take into consideration that if your surface is not properly prepped or if the paint is not properly applied that good results may not be had. Overall this is a much better process than trying to apply a shadow or freehand airbrushing before each individual background area around it. I've done that before and it's a MAJOR pain in the butt. Not only are you going back and forth between colors but you have to get pretty good at matching the fade which can be quite difficult. This is much much easier. You can see how consistant the glow is around the burst even though the glow is above multiple background areas because it was done at once. Using the bit by bit technique makes it much more difficult to achive this kind of consistancy. This is also extremely time efficient as well. Aside of simply trying not to cut into paint, I'd say this was a successful test.
 
i think it looks great, and i dont mind you using my theme...enjoy and can't wait to see the next part.
 
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