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kYOSOHO INFERNO RUNNING WAY HOT.

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Elmerfudd

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Hello all,

I have a friend who owns a Inferno he bought used. It was really new, and he knows the guy he bought it from. Well it has been working perfect for about 5-6 tank fulls and now it runs increadably hot. It gets up to 220 degrees in about 5-10 seconds of idling time. It runs so lean we keep fattening it up and it still runs smoking hot. We have changed the o-ring behind the pull start and re-sealed the carb (was told that might be it) but to no avail. It all started when my friend got a little dirt inside the carb (we think) when we took the carb off, the slide was stiff. We got that all squared away, but cannot get it to richen up, any idea's? Maybe the fuel tank is clogged? We blew out the gas tank and still has same issue.
 
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Thanks for the reply Rolex,

Yeah we tried to richen the lsn, with no change. So 220 degrees is ok after the first few seconds? My friend thought that was way to hot to be right off the getgo. I will ask him how hot it acually gets. When he drives it around anything off of idle (other than full throttle) just kills it. I mantioned it to him to lean out the LSN, but he seemed to be stuck on the 220 degrees thing. Do you or anyone happen to know what the settings from the factory are. It is a Inferno st with a .28 Kyosho motor? Does that sound correct? Sorry, just new to this. :)
 
I'd suggest taking the carb itself apart and cleaning it all out. Just pay attention with what goes where and take your time.

Typical base settings are the LSN flush with the throttle barrel housing and the HSN 4 turns out from bottom. That has worked well for me for a lot of different engines as a starting point.

If your way to lean on the HSN, your forcing the LSN to be lean as well. The HSN isn't only controlling the high speed, it controls the maximum fuel flow into the carb. At WOT, that's your maximum air and fuel flow which is only controlled by the HSN.

I've had a new engine out of the box with the HSN screwed in (silly me didn't check the settings first) almost all the way. It was 1/2 turn from bottom. I could not get that thing to start without blowing pressure into the pressure line of the tank as I attempted to start it. As soon as I stopped blowing, it died. Took me a few minutes to realize what was happening.
 
Thanks guys, I will let you know how it goes. I will not get a chance to work on it till Sunday, I work 6 days this week. I'll keep ya posted on how I did. Thanks. again. :bow:
 
as long as its not really breaking 270* to 280* you should be fine.
keep in mind the H needle flows ALL Fuel to the carby and the L needle only flows fuel from idle to 1/3rd throatle

Temps should be Monitored and not used as the holy bible.
 
Ok, I had a little time tonight to start checking out this thing. It is hard to start, and when it does it has a high idle. I try to turn the idle screw just a hair and it will die. If I remove the ignitor, it dies. If I give it gas, it dies. But it will idle for a little while, then dies unless I give it just a little throttle, but will end up dieing even if I try to keep it running. It will only run for about 10-15 seconds. Not quite enough time for me to even try to adjust the lsn. I did notice there is a very slight fuel leak coming from the hsn base and snug tightened the fitting. Seems to have stopped it, but not quite sure at this time. I checked the head bolts and they are tight. It seems like it cannot keep enough heat in the chamber to keep igniting the fuel because as soon as I take off the glow plug it dies. The only way I can keep it running for the 10 or so seconds is to have the ignitor on. We did try changing the glow plug, but has same issue. Help. Any thoughts out there?
 
So I tried again last night to get this thing running. It starts and runs, but still only for 10-15 seconds. It does not seem like it is running rich anymore. It is very responsive when giving it gas, but it will just die about the 2-3rd time you give it any kind of throttle. And to start it you have to blow into the exhaust to fill the carb with some fuel to start. :doh: Help!
 
priming the carb is normal operations on basically any starting, and pressurzing the tank by blowing in it works great, JUST DONT SUCK!!! nitro is NASTY Ass poop to get in your mouth. lol

now you still may have a tiny air leak which can cause a slight Lean condition which will result in a high or erratic idle speed. so try as best you can to make sure you have no airleaks still.

now, i wonder if your LSN is a bit Lean. i say that cuz you mention it seems to have a High idle and trying to adjust the idle screw dont help. try this.
turn the LSN counter clockwise ( richen ) 1/8th a turn. and try to start. if the idle is Lower now, then you know the LSN is atleast in the correct Neighborhood, though not on the right street.

if its worse than it was, then reset it to where you started and then go clockwise (leaner) 1/12th a turn and try again. only adjust the LSN 1 or 2 times, dont want to get TOO lean with it.

Keep in mind the HSN controls all fuel flow for the motor and from 1/3rd throatle and up to top rpm.
the LSN only meters the fuel for idle to 1/3rd rpm.

so once you have it running and then you get it to stay running, you ll likely take it for a drive and want to get up to some higher speeds and will need to adjust the HSN to suit.

fromt that point on, when you adjust the HSN, you ll need to follow up and re tweek the LSN afterwards and then follow up with the Idle screw last.


one last thing, once you have the motor running and it is well Warmed up (which can take a few mintues of running) its not uncommon for a motor to stall out. on the first start and run of the day, or after the car has cooled down well, you ll likely need to Feather the throatle to keep it running. so before you go about adjusting screws, try to lightly feather the throatle so you can keep the motor running for a minute or two, allowing it to get warmed up decently. once its warmed up it ll be less likely to die out if the needles are infact in the neighborhood.

GL and keep us up to date.
T
 
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Thanks. I will try those things you mentioned tonight! I work till 4pm today.

As far as the air leaks, the way you would find them on a car would to be spray a little WD40 or starter spray around to see if the idle changes. Would that work in this application, or do you know of another trick like that, that will have a similar effect?
 
Ok Timmahh I tried what you said, It did not make too much difference. When I richened the lsn it acually idled a tad bit better, but again, as soon as I removed the ignitor, it dies. When I leaned out the lsn it was really hard to start and died a lot quicker. I tried to even richen more than the first time and it started running worse and harder to start.

Can I find an air leak like I mentioned above?
 
Well, we could never get that engine to runs right. My buddy finally got fed up and bought a new motor. Good news is that he got the same motor that was in it for $80 brand new! It retails for $219.00, the LHS owner felt generous and said he has lots of those in stock, so he sold it to him real cheap. I know they are probably not the best motors, but he was really happy. :banana:

He noticed right away that the new motor had tons more compression then the old one. We assume that the issue lied in the piston/head area.
 
It's always nice when your LHS feels your pain and gives you a deal. I've had that happen a few times. No matter how bad your deal was, a LHS that realizes it was a bad deal and does something to compensate has a tendency to wash the pain away...

Good luck with the new engine!
 
Stay close with that LHS. My LHS wouldn't do that. Now that you have a new engine, break it in so it lasts.
 

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