Just tried starting my Nitro for the very first time, a few probs

[echelon6]

I encountered a few problems when I started it for the first time just then:

1) generally very hard to start, very hit and miss. Not sure when its flooded etc (I'm using a rotostart so I can't 'feel' it)
2) When finally got it started, I drove it up my driveway and back, I saw no visible blue smoke coming out of it at all (on idle and also 1/4 throttle). This worried me so I richened the high speed a bit, then it died on me.
3) Couldn't start it up again, then I leaned it back to factory setting, and got it started again after many tries. This time it died after idling for a while. Again, no smoke.
4) Couldn't restart, glow igniter ran out of juice by then, and the rotostart battery was almost out too

Wondering if anyone could answer some of these questions:
1) Is it likely that I damaged my engine from trying to start it unsuccessuflly too much? i.e. with the rotostart? I do 1 second bursts. Also I did put ARO into the cylinder and carb before the first start
2) Can anyone comment on the lack of visible smoke?

Thanks in advance

 

[echelon6]

SICK of the poopy rotostart, used a powerdrill instead. SO much easier

I think I got the hang of it... but still wondering if I did some damage to the engine from too much fiddling around... anyone?

 

[abadk9420]

The best thing you could do is get a temp gun, your probly not going to see a heavy steam of smoke comming out of the exhaust at 1/4 throtle, that usually comes once it is broke in and you are at wide open throtle, as long as you are not getting above like 260 degrees you should be fine....

 

[insutama]

I'm sure its fine. what type of rig are ya running is it The Savage because thats kinda what happened when i got mine except there was fuel spitting out of the exhaust so i knew it was rich. I only really notice the smoke when i give it a good amount of throttle dont really notice it too much when its idling. keep us posted.

 

[MrClean]

Sounds like it's going normal actually. Break-in is the most frustrating thing EVER!
You will never have smoke (well almost never) under 1/2 throttle. Like the others said, you'll see raw fuel spitting out of the exhaust or at least leaving a spot on the driveway/street when idling. Keep it at factory settings for a tank or two, then slowly start leaning it out over several more tanks. JMO You want the engine to get to around 200F for a few minutes, then shut it down and let it cool off (be sure to put the piston at BDC, while cooling).

 

[echelon6]

Yes I've been doing that. I've opted to stay with the powerdrill for now, SO MUCH easier as I said before.

but I think I majorly screwed up... I flooded my engine a few times, and had to remove the glowplug then spin the piston a but to get the excess fuel out. Well I didn't think of it then, but I put the glowplug on the ground, and it picked up some dirt and I put it back on the engine without cleaning it first. This happened a few times before I wised up. Now the place where the glowplug is is actually got a bit of dirt etc on the surface so I think some must've got into the piston when I was replacing the glowplug

Argh so pissed... try to do everything right then something like this happens. I guess its common sense really, but in all the tutorials read / youtube clips watched, it never got a mention that when you remove a glowplug, don't put it on the ground!!

Also I put my tools etc on the ground as well, e.g. my wrench, tweezers for grabbing the plug etc, all on the ground where it collected dust

Sorry if I appear to be worrying too much but... well am I worrying too much that dust got in? Visual inspection of the top of the piston shows no dust, but then they'd be long gone by now anyway.

 

[MrClean]

I know what you mean, when I spent that kind of money, I was worried about what I was doing too.

You can remove the cooling head and look down inside the sleeve and see if there are any marks inside the sleeve. If there are not any, that doesn't mean there isn't some debris in there, but at least you'll know your sleeve isn't scared. The area around my glow plug is always dirty after running, granted I'm out bashing it and you are just breaking it in, but I think that will happen as long as you are driving it. If you have a compressor, you can blow the cooling head out before removing the glow plug. You can also use a straw and just blow down in there (close your eyes though). I use a Q-tip and alcohol to clean around mine.

 

[echelon6]

Yeah ever since this happened this arvo I've just lost a bit of motivation on doing everything perfectly, cos you know whats the point in getting the breakin so perfectly right when you've already messed up in the most important way haha

Anyway next time I'm free I'll try to remove the cooling head (its on SO TIGHT at the moment I'll snap my wrench before budging it I think) and take a look at the sleeve. Hopefully its fine...

I do have a compressor, so I'll use it to give it a good clean (its a pain to turn on and its very loud etc cos its one of those full size ones)

hmmm just wondering:

1) is there a way to un-flood an engine without removing the glowplug?
2) can I get away with doing everything I need to without removing the glowplug (except changing a busted glowplug)
3) do you take your glowplugs off while holding the car upside down, and reinstall while doing the same?
4) is it normal that from driving at low speed on my driveway for just 20 mins total runtime, the transmission and flywheel / clutch area accumulated lots of gunk / dirt mixed with ARO (I put ARO to lubricate the transmission) ? Best way to clean this? Its so irritating that my car gets so dirty, even though its onroad

One more thing is I noticed compression / pinch is SO much weaker after initial few runs (total had 4 runs this afternoon, each lasting 3-4 mins, was heat cycling). Now I can get past the pinch with 2 fingers and moderate effort. Before I couldn't with all my finger strength.

Can someone comment whether this is normal?

 

[MrClean]

1) Not that I know of.
2) I don't think the ARO would get into the sleeve/piston are without removing the glow plug
3) No, I take the compressor and blow out around the glow plug, remove it and if necessary, use a Q-tip with alcohol and CAREFULLY remove any stuck on debris. But you can remove it with the rig upside down, but if there is anything down in there, you run a risk of it falling in when you turn it upright.
4) I don't think you should ARO for the transmission. You can use denatured alcohol to clean that stuff off. When you use the ARO, how much are you putting into the glow plug hole and the carb? You only need 3-4 drops in each.

I can't remember which rig you have, but my Revo did the same thing. It was almost impossible to turn at first by hand, then it loosened up a bit and has remained about the same (on 3rd gallon).

 

[echelon6]

Thanks for the tips

I have a hpi RS4 evo3+

So if you have a busted glowplug in the field, and you dont have your compressor handy (I assume you don't lug around a huge compressor) then how would you do it? or even more commonly, if in the field you flood your engine, again you don't have a compressor to clean the area beforehand?

 

[insutama]

I basically do what mr clean dose i get a q tip with alcohol on it and wipe around the plug then i pull the plug and washer out and go around it with an other q-tip. Also for getting the cooling head off if your using a allen key use you glow plug wrench on the allen key for leverage works great. And for getting the glow plug in or out of the head and instead of putting the plug on the gound you could get a plug wrench with a clip in it so it clips the plug into the wrench rather than just falling out.

 

[zinkerone]

I agree with MR Clean.... but would like to add.... Removing the glow plug isn't something i would do in the field. Mabey try loosening it about 1/2 way pinch the fuel line and turn upside down while trying to start to un-flood (sounds easy, but isn't).
Removing the glow plug is something you have to get used to. I find if you have the right tool it's easier. I have one of those interchangable screwdrivers without the bit. I stuffed some rubber tubing in the socket (so it holds the glow plug tip) this makes my life alot easier.
If possible reset back to factory settings, and after break-in lean 1/16 of a turn at a time (clockwise) till you get it right.

Alos I wouldn't remove the head and mess with the engine unless you are comfortable doing so. What's done is done (damage wise)

 

[echelon6]

Thanks all