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traxxas t-maxx

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Location
portland
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
So today we got the duratrax evader. My dad was really excited I was like ehhh bring my t-maxx will destroy yours. So we fired it up and within like four pulls vrrrrrrrrrrrrrm. Then after about five minutes of messing with the clutch we figured out ha mabye it the clutch and it was; the spring around the clutch shoes was broke. Thanks to the ole t-maxx we scavanged a part off my old clutch. So after that we started to drive it and were having troubles tuning it and the gas tank seal wasn't tight enough so we tryed to tighten that but it was striped out. So we need a new tank. Then the other problem was that when you hit the brakes it would kill the motor so I tinkerd with the linkage and fixed that problem. So all in all not a bad truck I would say. Tomorrow night I will get some pictures of it.
 
My duratrax rt-x 27 would be that way to. The duratrax carbs suck you might wanna upgrade the stock motor. If you wanna keep it go with a os carb. it makes a whole lot of difference.
 
my rig has the same idling prob. my idle quit working a few weeks back and now it never really wants to idle (cept for on certain days) i thought it might be a airleak but it runs awsome in every other aspect. i tried adjusting the trim but it would rev down and i would bump the gas and it would rev back up for a bit then rev back down. sorry to take the thread but i didnt want to post another. any ideas
 
Okay so I know its kind of late for the pics but oh well here they are,

nitroevader001.jpg
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nitroevader002.jpg
[/IMG]

nitroevader003.webp


nitroevader006.webp


In the last picture you see the weird allingment on the gear how do I fix that?
 
it will work as is, but its not correct IMO

post more pics of the slipper

edit:
i looked at the manual and you may have it assembled right. i normally see them with the spur sandwiched between the two metal plates unless it is a friction clutch style. (revo)


you can shim out the clutchbell a little, if you have plenty of clutch engagement. that only gives you a little more engagement. Is the motor mount adjustable?
 
Last edited:
If you can't shim out the clutch bell enough, what about shimming out the flywheel ? thats an old dodge i have used a couple of times and it works fine.
 
Shimming is the act of adding one, or more, spacing washers (or "Shims") behind the flywheel to make it sit further foward and be in correct alignment with the main gear.

To correctly "Shim" the flywheel, you need to remove it, which involves removing the clutch bell, shoes & springs, removing the retaining nut, then removing the flywheel and flywheel collet (Brass tapered bush) to enable the shims to be fitted before re-assembly.

This of course, should only be done when the amount of shimming required has been ascertained by measuring how much more forwards the clutchbell must be whilst the engine is still mounted in the vehicle.. This "measurement" gives you your total amount of required "Shimming". These shims are placed on the output shaft that the flywheel was removed from, then the brass collet is slid back into place, then the flywheel and the nut is then wound on. Using a flywheel tool to enable correct titghtening of said retaining nut. The clutch shoes & Springs are refitted before finally refitting the clutch bell in place.

With all that said, some engine mounts allow for a little forward movement, so this should be checked BEFORE deciding to shim the flywheel.
 
I tryed tonight to move the engine over and that didn't work. So I took apart the slipper clutch and still the same I don't know I guess I will just leave it and run it and see how long it runs. When one of you asked for more pictures of the clutch, where on the clutch did you want to see pictures of.
 
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