Intro, and I need some parts

[D3MON]

Yes ,I believe your right ,the tranny alone is worth a $100 bucks!

He is better off checking the engine to see if it has good compression an the wear of it ,an if it is any good ,
then put it up for sale before any damage comes too it ,then invest in a more user friendly engine!...

Never know, he could be a lucky one with that engine, but those things chug the fuel, that .21 and the axial .28 just sips it like a good scotch

 

[cbaker65]

I am always looking for the Mgt. parts ,I have plenty of diff.s ,but prefer to keep mine ,however ,I see good used
diff.s on E-bay every now & then ,I don't buy them because I already have a stock ,but if I see them ,I will give
a link!...

 

[D3MON]

next time if you guys do break one, may see if i can buy it off you, use it as a base to test fit a lower A-Arm hinge mount.

 

[Summitp]

So I got the engine running today. I wnet searching for info, and found the MGT 8.0 quick start guide. Adjusted the needles per the guide, and set the idle gap on the throttle body, and got it to fire up. It seemed to be running rich, so I adjusted the HSN down a bit to lean it out a little, and it sort of cane to live, it has some power charging off the street. But the 2 speed trans isn't working properly, and the brakes suck. It is stuck in second gear, so I popped open the tranny adjustment access and lined up the hole with the adjustment screw, but that screw was super tight, and had very limited movement. I think I might have messed it up or knocked something loose, cause when I went to test, still no first gear, and then bam, transmission locked up.
Maybe I'll take it apart tonight.

 

[cbaker65]

So I got the engine running today. I wnet searching for info, and found the MGT 8.0 quick start guide. Adjusted the needles per the guide, and set the idle gap on the throttle body, and got it to fire up. It seemed to be running rich, so I adjusted the HSN down a bit to lean it out a little, and it sort of cane to live, it has some power charging off the street. But the 2 speed trans isn't working properly, and the brakes suck. It is stuck in second gear, so I popped open the tranny adjustment access and lined up the hole with the adjustment screw, but that screw was super tight, and had very limited movement. I think I might have messed it up or knocked something loose, cause when I went to test, still no first gear, and then bam, transmission locked up.
Maybe I'll take it apart tonight.

There is 2 screws that are sitting side by side in there ,one set screw tightens the 2 spd hub to the shaft ,the other adjust the
shift ,the one that tightens the hub ,your allen wrench will be pointed in an up & down position ,the screw that adjust shift
point ,the allen wrench will be going in the hole in an angle!

So ,the very tight one was the one you had loosened up ,that was a no no! So there for ,you had loosened the hub!

The adjustment screw is not suppose to be tight ,an you only have to back it out ,about an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn out!

 

[cbaker65]

If you wait until tomorrow ,I can take detail pics of a shaft ,the hub ,an the set screws on that hub ,as I have one
out of the tran.s!

 

[D3MON]

So I got the engine running today. I wnet searching for info, and found the MGT 8.0 quick start guide. Adjusted the needles per the guide, and set the idle gap on the throttle body, and got it to fire up. It seemed to be running rich, so I adjusted the HSN down a bit to lean it out a little, and it sort of cane to live, it has some power charging off the street. But the 2 speed trans isn't working properly, and the brakes suck. It is stuck in second gear, so I popped open the tranny adjustment access and lined up the hole with the adjustment screw, but that screw was super tight, and had very limited movement. I think I might have messed it up or knocked something loose, cause when I went to test, still no first gear, and then bam, transmission locked up.
Maybe I'll take it apart tonight.

For me my shift set screw is about 6 turns our from snug, there is a silver screw and a black screw. they are about 30 degrees around the shaft apart. i beleive the silver one is the hub set grub screw and the black one is the adjustment. its a PITA to get the allen wrench on the adjustment screw, it is also far more recessed. if yours does have reverse, i really recomend either fabbing your own Forward only kit or if you can find one, buy it. the forward/reverse pawl has so much slack, almost a full rotation before engaging so it slams into gear hard.
for the brakes, replace the spring that holds tension on the brake cam with fuel line. it makes them so much stronger. mine skids to a stop if i slam the brakes.
also, double check your driveshaft screws often. if they havent been, lock-tite the living bejesus out of them.

 

[Summitp]

Transmission ate itself. I've pulled the gasser apart and fixed the electric and replaced a bunch of worn parts along the way.

 

[Summitp]

 

[cbaker65]

That engine eats everything!....

 

[Heisenburg]

A cardinal rule is that strengthening one item, be it suspension or driveline, will create a new weak point down the line. Better to have that weakest item be something easy to service.
But tying bulkheads together is a good idea. Might try it myself, for my Rustler, Rustler 4x4, and Stampede 4x4.

 

[Summitp]

A cardinal rule is that strengthening one item, be it suspension or driveline, will create a new weak point down the line. Better to have that weakest item be something easy to service.
But tying bulkheads together is a good idea. Might try it myself, for my Rustler, Rustler 4x4, and Stampede 4x4.

Agreed. And a arms are easy to change and cheap. Shock towers are also pretty cheap and easy to change, but I was breaking them pretty frequently. After putting the aluminum channel in, 0 breaks. Still on the same shock towers 2 years later.