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Installing New Parts

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hdrider281

hdrider281

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I got new RPM suspension parts coming, Is there a start set point for adjustment screws? I was jus looking at the tie rods and Push rods. Is there a minimum /maximum thread depth to allow for adjusment of camber? i dont want to cut threads too soon. ( is there an issue if you thread the tie ends too much , make the threads loose... or does the loctite hold?)... maybe this is a stupid question but my parts arent here... am i over looking this?
 
For the most part, you should be able to use all your parts as they are now, except for the pivot balls. The tie-rods/turnbuckles should end up pretty close to accurate.

For the pivot balls, I usually screw them in until the threads are all even with the plastic, then adjust accordingly after getting the wheels on.

I don't use loctite on any of the threads related to suspension. Only on metal to metal connections.
 
I use a small dab of the blue stuff on the pivot ball caps, it really helps. Your pushrods should have a red collar on them, just tighten them down. I also thread the pivot balls in like olds said, that way the tie rod ends can be threaded almost all the way in.
 
I also got a set of the steel driveshafts... the right rear shaft doesn't want to stay in the knuckle on the differential side ??? its the only 1 I'm having this issue with... am I overlooking something?
 
What suspension do you have? Rpm or stock? What driveshafts are they? I had trouble with traxxas cvd shafts and the rpm true track on my revo. It seems the true track made it a hair wider and my shafts kept popping out like you're describing. I had to lower my truck and run too much neg camber to prevent it from happening. i finally went back to stock shafts in the rear lol. You can get deeper drive cups, but they only made my problem slightly better.

If you have pivot balls on the top and bottom a-arms try screwing them in more and re-aligning. Then hold the truck up and turn the rear wheels while watching the shaft turn. Does it still look like the shaft could pop out?
 
I got the RPM fronts and the RPM tru trac rear... also the steel cv shafts... and all 4 wheels look like the shaft rides all they way out as if any of them would stay in place. the stock drive shafts have an accordian type extention ... and they do extend longer than the steel shafts. Is there any fix to these steel shafts? they seem to be stronger but the stock shafts seem to be engineered better... is there any happy medium?
 
those look identical to what i have. if there are some longer ones they might work but the stock shafts seem to have a longer travel.

I adjusted the push rods to to the outtermost hole on the lower A arm . it seems to have moved the driveshaft into a better position but the shock looks like it has shifted. what effects will these changes make and do i have to re adjust the shocks? the shocks seem a lot softer
 
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I would screw the front pivot balls in all the way and adjust the camber/toe accordingly. As for the rear you're pretty much screwed, unless traxxas makes a replacement shaft a couple mm's longer.

The cups that were linked to you are deeper than the ones that came with your shafts....and like I said earlier, I had to use those cups with way too much negative camber in the rear, so I went back to the stock shafts.

There may also be some way to shim the outer cvd at the wheel bearing, but I don't know.
 
Its hard to tell by a pic and i didnt see any actual measurements. but htey do look proportionally the same. and by shifting the pushrods to the outer most hole it seemed to give it just enough to look like it will actually work... but by doing this i set the shocks a lot softer... by moving the pushrods... what else has this changed? besides the shock tension? its still not all together yet... so i havent tested anything but before i get into all these new adjustments... what have i changed so far?
 
I put aluminum rockers and steel cv drive shafts... the only possible way i can see that the driveshafts will work is to adjust the pushrods to the outer hole. this is the only position that the driveshaft will stay in the sleeve. but by doing this is appears that this lowers the suspension but my question is about the shocks... they need adjustment because of changing the position of the push rods... but i read that the springs should only be tightened so much and the springs are different. anyone got any ideas?
 

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