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Bryson

Bryson

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  1. Bashing
I have had it with my revo. Ever since I got it it has given me problems with running. It will start then i give it gas and it dies. I have had it for like 3-4months and more than half the time iv been scratching my head trying to figuar it out. Even the guys at the hobbyshop dont get my car. The car starts fine then once i take off the easy start and give it gas it bogs out and dies. I've gone through 20 glo plugs and like 1 galon of gas too. And to add to that when it does run the reciver batterie dies in like 20 min. So if anyone has any last sugestions to help please help because if i can't fix this I'm going to sell it.
 
WOHAAAA hold the phone BRO!!!!

A revo owner will be along shortley

To awnswer your questions..
Hang in there The members will get you going..
 
Yeah man what he said!
Sounds like it is too rich?
Do a search here and see if you can up with something. You will find more guys dissing the local hobby shop here than the Revo. I don't own one either.
Start out with the factory settings. Go back through the glow plugs and see if they are good. 20 glow plugs? Your hobby shop is putting it to you!

Try this link. http://www.rchobbies.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm
Takes a lot of patience when ya first start tuning these engines. Don't give up. Give the Revo guys here a chance to help you.
 
Do you have a temp gun? If so, what temp is it running at when it dies. It really sounds like you have an air leak. Check under the fuel cap, the blue o-rings are show stoppers. Check your fuel lines, even the smallest non-visible little crack can give you a headache. Check you exhaust coupler for cracks or splits. Take you tank off with both lines connected, submerge the tank in water, plug one end of one of the lines with you finger and blow into the other and see if you have any bubbles coming from anywhere on the tank. This is the original mill right? Have you sprayed the backplate, carb base and under the head with WD-40 while it is running? If it dies when you spray at one of those places it indicates your leak. Return the needles to stock 4 turns out on the HSN and flush with the housing for the LSN. What plugs are you using? What fuel? I really believe you have an airleak somewhere, have patience.
 
its really tough to help sombody online like this. Especially when your just learning. What is your Local hobby shop? I would suggest going to Ultimate hobbies in orange. They are very helpful and would help you get off the ground.

Do what Jet said and if you can't get it going then go to Ultimate.
 
It's an airleak, and I'm so confident of that I'll bet the cost of a new Revo 3.3R, paid for by Jetmech, that if you follow a bit of the advice you'll get on this, you can get it running.

Do all of us a favor, answer these questions, allow us the chance to help and follow the advice given. If it doesn't get any better, Jetmech will buy you a new Revo:

1. What engine are you running (I'm assuming stock Traxxas 2.5, but just want to make sure)?

2. What type of glow plug have you been using?

3. What kind of fuel are you running?

4. Are you the original owner? Did you do the break-in per the instructions (be honest, if you didn't, just say so)?

5. What modifications to the drivetrain (different clutch bell, clutch shoes, spur gears, diff's) have you done, if any?

6. Do you have a temp gun? If not, get one!

Anyhow, just take a deep breath, answer these questions and get ready to do a little wrenching. I'm sure with the brain power here, we can lick this.
 
with all our left coast members, noone is close enough to go help this poor guy out??

like mw stated, step back, take a deep breath, tell yourself "its only a toy" relax a bit.

the members on here are great. and they can help just about anyone. but we need certain key questions answered so answer them as best you can and as honestly as you can.

i have faith in the rcnt crew, we will get you fixed up.
 
RR is in that general area. Jon2 is a few hours drive.

Socal is the place to be for RC. Nitrohouse and ultimate hobbies are not far from you and would be more then willing to help you out.
 
Someone needs to get over there before he does something he'll regret!!



Ok first off, I've always said some of these hobby shops are very questionable. Now you say you went through 20 GP's. You actually can tell a few things about how your motor is doing by looking at an old GP. Just look at the little spring inside an old GP and see what it looks like. If the spring is twisted up ( not spiral), the truck is probaly running lean. This would also cause the truck to die at WOT. I'm not sure when your truck is dieing on you but maybe that will help. Also, if the plug is black, it's probaly running to rich. You really need a temp gun to help you out with tuning the truck.

Now there is a few more test you can do to figure things out with. The first thing you should do is return the needles to the stock positions like stated above.The LHS should be around 4 - 4 1/2 turns. I'm not sure on setting the LSN. Once the is started, try doing a pinch test. There is people who can explain this test way better than me but I'll try to get you by until they chime in. This test is pretty easy, just pinch the fuel line as close to the carb as possible. The truck should stay started for 4-5 seconds. If the truck dies around 1-3 seconds of pinching the fuel line, the LSN is to lean. if it stays on longer than 5 seconds, it's to rich.

The one thing that maybe an issue is the motor maybe wore out. I've heard that if you can not keep the motor tuned, it's probly needs a new sleeve. You really need a temp gun to help figure out whats going on.

Oh and one more thing, you can pull the fuel tank and lines off to check for air leaks or trash in the system. It's very easy to remove this stuff, there is two body type clips holding the tank on. Just pull those off and there is the tank. The lines will slip off but becareful not to simply pull them off a tear one. Then buy you one of those cheap 7-10.00 fish tank air pumps. Plug the pressure line into the pump and install a screw into the fuel line. Fill the tank almost full of water and add a few drops of dish soap. Once you cut the pump on, you'll see bubbles if there is any air leaks. If you got a leak, replace that part because it will cause the truck to stall on you. I also ran the pump a little with the screw off to make sure the lines was flowing well since I didn't have signs of an air leak.

Also, do you know if this issue of dieing is with a half tank of fuel? The Revo has an issue of dieing on a half tank of fuel. It's simple to fix by adding 9" of pressure line to the truck. You just buy a foot of fuel line from your local LHS and chop it up to 9".




I hope it helps...just hang in there.
Ray
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Too bad RR is out this week, he's probably the closest that could help. But yes Ultimate Hobbies has a lot of good people working there as well as Nitrohouse. It will be a couple weeks before I'm back out there otherwise I'd be more than happy to lend a hand not my checkbook. And I'll go double or nothing with Monkeys checkbook that we get this running, heck I'm so confident Monkey will even throw in a 3.3 T-Maxx with the 3.3Revo!
 
Ya I'm not a amiture at this. I have tried the stock settings and all over the place with high speed. Every thing else it stock except i have a trinity pipe and thats about it. I'm running a MC59 glo plug. I have a temp gage and I'm running about 250-220 not hot and i pulls wheeles when its tuned. The thing is that it just wont stay running. Iv gone through about 3 glo plugs in the past week. It could be the carb has a leak. I think i will take it to ultimate hobbys to see wut they have to say. Pleas help.
 
Have you checked for an air leak thoroughly? Fuel lines, the fuel tank, fuel filter, or exhaust can have air leaks and cause a lot of heasaches. Have you also sealed up the carb and backplate with some high temp RTV silicone?

As far as your RX, is it still the stock RX rechargeable battery pack? How do you charge it?


I think you can solve this on your own bro. PM me if you need to talk on the phone.

Jon2
 
I'll take it off your hands for $150. I'll even have Jon come by and pick it up for me. Just kidding, I'll pick it up myself.




Like the others have said check for air leaks, make sure the head is tightened down well.
 
I have a fule filter and taken it off and tried to start it w/out it. It still wont start. The tank iv taken the seal off and looked at it and there is just a small nick in it. The tank is like new. The exaust cupler has a very small crack in it and i kind fixed that w/ goop glue. Ill try to take off the motor and check for stuff in the intake and head. And heeeeeeeeelllll no i wont sell it for under 500 because i have the trinity pipe, all the rpm arms, fule filter, rpm head guard, PLUSE new fule lines, and a couple of other things and to add to that i have all the stock parts that are still like new.
 
jetmechG550 said:
Have you sprayed the backplate, carb base and under the head with WD-40 while it is running? If it dies when you spray at one of those places it indicates your leak. Return the needles to stock 4 turns out on the HSN and flush with the housing for the LSN. What plugs are you using? What fuel? I really believe you have an airleak somewhere, have patience.
Click to expand...

Have you done this yet before you tear everything down?
 
OK, so you're not an amateur, which is good, except that you haven't answered all of these questions yet:

1. What engine are you running (I'm assuming stock Traxxas 2.5, but just want to make sure)?

2. What type of glow plug have you been using?

3. What kind of fuel are you running?

4. Are you the original owner? Did you do the break-in per the instructions (be honest, if you didn't, just say so)?

5. What modifications to the drivetrain (different clutch bell, clutch shoes, spur gears, diff's) have you done, if any?
Click to expand...

Replace the muffler coupler, don't mess around with the Goop (it's not worth it). You need to pull the backplate and carb off, clean them up and use RTV sealant on them. Replace the fuel tank O-ring. Small nick is enough to cause a problem and it's a cheap fix. You may also want to flush the fuel filter you have out.

They way it's acting, per your description, I have to believe it's an air leak.

Oh, and by no means am I intending to be a jerk, you are not going to get $500.00 out of that rig, even if it did run right. The downside of the great hobby is that these things tend to depreciate fast. Doesn't matter that you have RPM arms and all that, it's just the reality of it. The new 3.3R's are out, so why would someone pay $500.00 for a used Revo when a new one with a bigger engine out-of-the-box is $529.00? Hey man, just trying to give you a realistic idea of what to expect. I'd think, worst case scenario, you just get a new engine for it, like an OS .18TM or a RB 323. I just don't think you'll get $500.00 bucks if you decide to sell it, that's all.

Personally, I think if you seal that thing up good against air leaks, set your needles back to stock and give it another shot, you can get her going!

Good luck!
 
Bryson Molesky said:
The thing is that it just wont stay running.
Click to expand...

My Revo does the same thing but not sure for the same reason as yours.

Anyways, do you know if this happens with a full tank of fuel vs a half tank? They do have an issue of dieing with a half tank of fuel. You just install a 9" pressure line to fix that issue.


Also have you done a pinch test? This will help figure out where you stand with the LSN


Hope it helps
Ray
 
I do have the stock mill. I was just thinking of getting the picco but can't afford it. I'm going to homedepo to buy silico right now and ill try to seal it and ill head over to hobby people to buy a gasket. I have been runing trinity and only gone through one gal. I am the original onwner. I just can't belive that a two month old truck with not that much where and nothing done to the motor would dissipate so fast.
 
I'm with MW, you would be fortunate to get $300 out of it with an engine that doesn't run and $350 if it did. I paid $300 for mine, it had a questionable engine, RPM arms, aluminum shock ends, all stock parts/wrenches, radio, all electronics and a stick pack. That was in October before the 3.3 came out.

If all else fails, give up on the engine and replace the engine, but keep the truck. It's a good truck. I love mine. I'd like a little more power... but that will come when my engine (that once was questionable) actually dies. All I did was tear it completely apart, clean it, RTV it, installed a new GP and a pull starter. I've got over a gallon through it and it still runs strong.

Do you still have the stock header and pipe? Try putting it back on if you do. Some guys had issues with the trinity pipe sealing properly. It's worth a shot.
 
Don't get just regular silicone, man. It won't work. You need to get RTV sealant. They carry it at auto parts shops. Regular silicone will melt away and cause bigger problems.
 

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