hyper 8 pissin me off...

[UltegraSTI]

this thing is gettin on my nerves.

high end seems fine.

however low end is terrible. it wont idle but a few sec b4 the revs rise and try 2 load up the clutch. and after u hit the throttle it bogs hard til it gets fuel or fuel burnt out (idk if its rich or lean). and it takes 4ever 2 keep runnin after start. cold it fires up right away but gettin it 2 warm up is slow and gettin it 2 where it runs w/o shuttin off after a couple secs is very long.

this is mighty annoying. enuff 2 make me wanna change engines 2 a more dependable engine....or accelerate gettin rid of the car in favor of a monster.

-Ult

 

[CorradoPsi]

sounds to me like the low end is lean. get the car started and up to operating temp, then pinch the fuel line as close to the nipple as possible. you want the engine to run for 4-5 seconds and rev up a little just before it dies.

if the lowend were too rich, it would bog the engine out as it idled and revs would drop. you may find after adjusting the low end, your top end is actually too rich.

 

[mikeburgin]

yup think thats it definatley sounds lean at the bottom end, as in really lean if it wont even idle for a bit, normal way is to leave motor idling for a minute if it slows and stops its to rich if it revs then dies its to lean, using the idle screw to get you motor to idle affects the mixture as well, so really you should set your idle up with air filter and restrictor off the engine, and set the gap in the slide, your engine manual should tell you what the gap roughly should be, normally abot .5mm is a good starting point, the older the motor normally the closer the gap, then start playing with your low end mixture once you have put the air filter and restrictor back in, i normally wind the mixture screww out about 2.5 -3 turns to start with and then work from there, make sure your motor is warm before you fine tune it, oe else it will be right up the wazoo once it gets to proper temp, there is a page on the net that tells you the basics of tuning and what to listen and look for umm......... i will see if i can find it for you

HERE IT IS, EXSPLAINS HOW EVERYTHING WORKS
http://www.nitrorc.com/

 

[PD2]

BTW - You may want to take the back plate, carb, and head and remove them to seal them all up with Permatex Ultra Copper - these engines are known for leaking and throwing your tune way off. Try that and see if it holds a tune better.

OH! And that tuning guide from NitroRC.com is SOOOOOOO wrong!! You really should follow the Paris tuning guide - its what most people use. Basically, tune rich to lean and start with high to low needle settings.

PD2

 

[UltegraSTI]

sealed it w/hi temp RTV last wk, not the head though. i'll check the bolt tension.

big race and bash this sunday, and goin into 2mrw, my situation sux. almost wanna dump the car now and not even contemplate another motor. i really want a monster anyway, argh. thx

keep it comin

-Ult

 

[mikeburgin]

BTW - You may want to take the back plate, carb, and head and remove them to seal them all up with Permatex Ultra Copper - these engines are known for leaking and throwing your tune way off. Try that and see if it holds a tune better.

OH! And that tuning guide from NitroRC.com is SOOOOOOO wrong!! You really should follow the Paris tuning guide - its what most people use. Basically, tune rich to lean and start with high to low needle settings.

PD2

actually its not wrong its just different to what you do, the descibed meathod of tuning in my pervious note is pretty much what you just wrote, at the end oof the day, if your motor turns out tuned, its not wrong, i find this meathod very fast and effective, and i get a hell of alot of miles outta my motors, so can't be all bad,
whats the link for paris tuning, i would be interested in having a read

 

[Lessen]

sealed it w/hi temp RTV last wk, not the head though. i'll check the bolt tension.

big race and bash this sunday, and goin into 2mrw, my situation sux. almost wanna dump the car now and not even contemplate another motor. i really want a monster anyway, argh. thx

keep it comin

-Ult

patience Ult. you'll get it, just gotta keep at it. I was gettin mighty frustrated not too long ago with my picco .26's but the more research and playin around I did the more progress I made. My situation was totally opposite of yours, I was having a hard time getting it to run from cold. Just keep at it and think like an engine. you'll feel great once you get it goin. Good luck!

 

[husky24tn]

here is the link to the paris tuning guide....hope this helps....

http://www.nitrohouse.com/tip,_engine_breakin.htm

you should take the time to read this whole article....it will help you decide whats going on and maybe even clue you in as to whats happening....i had a motor that was super fast on take off but cut out bout 3/4 the way to top end....come to find out paris outlined this on this article and i adjusted accordingly and ...man what a difference a little extra knowledge makes....

hope this helps you out ....and if it doesn't ...check ebay....you can get a whole new hyper 8 port for around 109 dollars.....lol

peace,
Mitch

 

[PD2]

Thanks Husky! I was just about to post that this morning.

Guys, as you read the Paris one, notice that it is possible to have a false tune on your engine. That is the difference - I used the nitrorc guide a long time ago and encountered a false tune - in other words, it acted ok, temped ok, but for some reason it was lacking. When a buddy of mine showed me the Paris guide and I went back through my tuning it totally changed the range I had on my engine. Its the best out there! Enjoy!

PD2

 

[UltegraSTI]

well back 2 the track after work again, again no1 there wierd. anyways. richen up both needles, ran like poo (as planned) very very rich, belchin smoke. warmed it up. went after the high needle, got it around the track that WOT was goin pretty good, put more gas in, started 2 go after the low, lil by lil the punch came back, and better than b4 (too lean 4 sure). and by end of day had a car even w/a lil mud that would hold 22x til the very end of the run. yes was a lil fat all the way around, but thats on the safe side and i dont mind it at all.

oh btw, it did race pace for over 6min, closer to 7, so i was pleased w/that, rich and all.

-Ult

 

[CorradoPsi]

glad to hear you got it sorted out. now beat that thing instead of fighting it.

 

[UltegraSTI]

i dont beat on the cars, noted 4 b'g very 4givin and easy on equip

-Ult

 

[mikeburgin]

thanks for the link guys but its actully pretty much what i already do, although we do set our idle needle before we tune the top end, but it is definatley more accurate than rcnitro.com

 

[CorradoPsi]

but its a toy, its meant to be played with. granted i dont intentionally try to break or seriously abuse any of my cars, but i do run them pretty well.

 

[UltegraSTI]

well 1st big club race is 2day. all in good fun, we're debatin on just throwin whateva couple bux w/have in and 50/50 winner/club chest. some of the guys are already hell bent on winning (hopefully they realize crap like that only contributes 2 death of a club/track), idc i'll be happy if she runs the 5min race, no big mistakes, engine runs fairly clean (lil rich) and i'm in the pack. considerin how many people can't drive and the changes in the track surface from the weather...if some1 hasnt been there in a wk, its gonna catch em out.

as for the SUT, i'll snap a few quick 1s, maybe even a vid. but i dont think it'll see dirt 2day, might not even see its 1st tank idk.

-Ult

 

[CorradoPsi]

well if you havent even run a single tank in the SUT leave it at home, your better off focusing on the buggy. the SUT still needs broken in, and its diffs repacked with silicon at the very least. not to mention all the adjustments that will need to be made to it. just little stuff like brake bias, shock oil, roll centers. you could either chase that stuff all day today, or just enjoy running your buggy that's already setup. remember that engine breakin will take hours to get dont properly with heat cycles and proper cooldown time, then after thats all done, you have to find time to put a tune on it. IMO thats just too much stress on a race day.

 

[UltegraSTI]

like i said...might not even touch it at all, lucky 2 get its 1st 'idle' tank. its not seeing dirt 2day, i know 4 sure. besides when everythin else is all dirty, i can sit there and look at a nice clean truck. i could tinker w/it after the races are over (beginnin of day) and when they start doin demo derby, drag races, high and long jumps etc, or just open practice (will only b 1 race 4 each class 2day, supposed 2 b a bash not out n out race day). but yes it loox like the hyper will get almost undivided attention from me 2day.

we'll see how it goes.

what weight silicone u think? i have 1k, 3k, and 5k 4 the buggy. any of that stuff work? heavier?

-Ult

 

[husky24tn]

go 10k in the center diff of monsters...front and rear bout like the buggy....on my mbx4 jt truggy i went
front=5k
middle=10k
rear=3k....

works pretty good....

 

[CorradoPsi]

the GS racing team recommends 10k-30k-3k

you will most likely find this article very helpful for setting up your SUT