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hydrolocked help

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mkatona

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hi. I have my first nitro after a lifelong on-again-off-again relationship with electrics.. I bought this from ebay..A Nitro Stampede w/ a Pro .15 motor and a MIP 360o Sringer Pipe and Header..

Like I said, I'm newbie to nitro.. I'm pretty sure I Hyrolocked it because it seems.. well, locked.. I took off the starter motor.. that's spins.. replaced the glow plug..so I did what everyone says.. Take out the glowplug turn it upside down, let it drain try again.. Still no go.. So I took off the head and noticed that the cylender goes up but not down when I try to ez-start it..

Also I noticed that the pipe was spitting raw fuel out what I had it running for the few minutes it was.. I read this means too rich.. So I have to lean it out right?.. which means turn the top screw on the carb in 1/4 a turn until it stops...?

Thanks.

ps:

here is the link if you want to see what I got..
My Trunk off ebay...
 
well first off, the pro .15 and the ez start that came with them are old, I would not be surprised if the ez is busted. And are you priming the engine before you try to start it if you are you could be over priming.
 
Is the one way bearing on the right way? Is it blown?
 
Tarant said:
well first off, the pro .15 and the ez start that came with them are old, I would not be surprised if the ez is busted. And are you priming the engine before you try to start it if you are you could be over priming.

I pumped it once or twice.. Nothing crazy.. I had it running for about 3 or 4 minutes but then it died on me. It kept lifting the front off the ground.. At this point, the engine is so tied up, the fly(?) won't move. I took off the header and left it upside down all night hoping the pressure leaks out.

jon2 said:
Is the one way bearing on the right way? Is it blown?

What is a one way bearing? :-\
 
awww, forgive me for not knowing the terms.. but here is what I found..

I took the engine apart and the arm which turns the cylinder seems to be bend and keeps hitting the block. Some thin strips of metal feel out when I was looking into it..
 
if them strips of metal are circular like washers, them are shims that go between the cooling head & the engine block......but if the arm is bent hitting the case i would would just get a new engine since its used........you can get a rebuild kit for your 15 engine but a new piston/sleve is about 55$ and new arm is about 15$........and sence the arm is bent it probly ruined the bearings inside too.........thats another 20$...........bout 90$ alltogather give or take a little if the crankshaft is ok..............................before i repaired that engine i would just go ahead & give around 120$ for a brand new engine which will have its warenty.......if you get a new engine (cheaper in the longrun) take off the carb & backplate.......run a light bead of rtv high temp silicone around the base of both then put back on & let cure.......that will help prevent any air leaks in the engine........an air leak can make a engine hard to start, tune & run and can cause it to run too hot..........
 
speedticket75 said:
if them strips of metal are circular like washers, them are shims that go between the cooling head & the engine block......but if the arm is bent hitting the case i would would just get a new engine since its used........you can get a rebuild kit for your 15 engine but a new piston/sleve is about 55$ and new arm is about 15$........and sence the arm is bent it probly ruined the bearings inside too.........thats another 20$...........bout 90$ alltogather give or take a little if the crankshaft is ok..............................before i repaired that engine i would just go ahead & give around 120$ for a brand new engine which will have its warenty.......if you get a new engine (cheaper in the longrun) take off the carb & backplate.......run a light bead of rtv high temp silicone around the base of both then put back on & let cure.......that will help prevent any air leaks in the engine........an air leak can make a engine hard to start, tune & run and can cause it to run too hot..........

Thanks for your help!

No, they where metal shavings, not washers. There was no shims.

I opened a paypal dispute with this guy who is not responding to my emails anymore. I guess I learned a lesson in EBAY life huh?
 
I'm guessing that you have the Traxxas Pro .15 engine, right? If so, you can use the Traxxas engine upgrade program and get a new 2.5 or maybe even a 3.3 (although, I think that it'd be too much for the drive train on the 'Pede) cheaper than rebuilding the Pro .15 or buying new.

Take a look at this link: http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/erp/trx_erp-33.htm

Hopefully it'll help somewhat!
 
The engine needs replaced...if there is metal shavings inside the engine, that means that something is getting scratched....you will have to do all the repairs mentioned above and that will cost a lot. Just go through traxxas, they have a good program...all you do is send back the engine. If your hobby shop sells traxxas stuff, go to them and talk with them about it.

David
 
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