Hpi savage disc brake problems

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Cozytoes3rd

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Hi
My savage 4.6 has got brake problems. There's too much travel on the short arm. It has the fuel pipe instead of the spring but the arm has to move to far for brakes to engage.
Any help would be much appreciated.
 

Rolex

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There are several ways to adjust the travel of the brake. First, make sure the pads are not worn down too far. Next, you can change the length of the arm where it connects in the trans. The shorter it is going to the servo linkage, the less travel is needed.
It's the green linkage coming straight up from the bottom of the trans...
014.JPG

Also, check these pads for excessive wear:
svTrnsFin.jpg
 

Cozytoes3rd

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There are several ways to adjust the travel of the brake. First, make sure the pads are not worn down too far. Next, you can change the length of the arm where it connects in the trans. The shorter it is going to the servo linkage, the less travel is needed.
It's the green linkage coming straight up from the bottom of the trans...
View attachment 17306
Also, check these pads for excessive wear:
View attachment 17307
That's great. Thank you.
 

Rolex

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Rolex,

Is that excess wear on your brake pads from waxing?
The pads are fine, it's the aluminum plates that engage them that are wearing from waxing and buffing. :cool:
 

bobthebob

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On my Savage X SS, I notice one of my metal disk brakes can rub against the clutch bell. It has been wearing itself down along the edge where it contacts. Not sure how I would avoid this as it seems to just be how it's designed. There is a lot of play in where the disks can actually be, as they are completely loose around the driveshaft hex where they are mounted, only held in place by the brake pads, which I thought was wrong at first but it seems to work.
 

Rolex

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The brake pads should be loose. That allows them to relax when you let go of them so they don't drag.
 

bobthebob

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No the disks are loose, not the pads. The pieces of metal holding the pads together are as tight as they will go, which still leaves enough room for the disc to spin freely through them unless the brakes are applied, just the disk flop around a lot everywhere they are not sandwiched between the pads.
 

olds97_lss

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The metal discs had a tendency to get sloppy around the hex, and they would bind eventually. I really like the dual pink disks. The metal ones also came with pads that had actual wear material on them. Requires a new hub/hex as well as pads/mounting screws. Worth the hassle to do it right though since you have to take the truck half apart to get at them.
 

bobthebob

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yeah when I installed the brake disks the manual said they would have a sticky back also, but in reality when I pulled the paper backing off as carefully as possibly, the sticky part stuck to the paper and ripped off the back of the pad. Luckily they seem to be staying put without the stickyness. The slipper clutch backing sticker luckily did come off correctly, although it was also barely sticky at all underneath. Getting off topic, sorry.
 

olds97_lss

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Just the metal pieces. No pads on the shoes. They seem to last forever as long as you have a center skid that avoids having sticks or rocks jammed up there. I broke one once because of a stick. Got the RPM center skid and haven't had an issue since.
 

bobthebob

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nice i guess that would be a good replacement for the stainless steel and pads whenever they wear out. Yeah RPM skid plate was my first mod part :). I just couldn't stand the idea of mud and dirt splashing up onto that shiny break, but it gets crap in there anyway through the sides and then you have to take the skid plate off a lot to clean it up anyway.
 

Certified Mike

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A common issue with an rc10gt was that the hex that the brake disc rode on would wear out. It was a flimsy piece of plastic. The upgrade was an aluminum hex. That cured the problem in a one shot deal and they last forever after that. Maybe want to check your hex???
Just a though to. I don't own a savage.
 

bobthebob

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Does that red fiberglass disk setup fit on the Savage X SS? Looked like it was not compatible according to amainhobbies site. I just went ahead and bought another steel disk and brake pad set from ebay. Has anyone else had the problem with the front stainless disk rubbing it's edge against the end of the clutch bell? It turned into a rather sharp edge on the disk over time, which then eventually cut through the outer brake pad. I think I may have tightened those screws too much too as now it feels as though the bottom one is stripped :(. Also had the problem someone else mentioned where the discs slipped off the front of the hex and bound up, though that was directly because of the bottom screw getting loose after I took apart and cleaned the setup, and saw that the outer pad was hanging by a thread.
 
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