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HPI NITRO STAR T-15 on ruslter

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peacher213

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Hey guys, I just got my engine in the mail today, Its been a hell of a time getting this thing to remotely fit...I've grinded down the crank for the flywheel and clutch/bell, Motor mounts had to be modified, and now i realize the engine is too deep at the bottom to even fit in my Rustler or Stampede....HPI claims it will fit all cars and trucks with a small block...what the hell am i to do here? sorry to ramble I'm just frustrated

Thanks for any help, Joe
 
Usually the mounts are the same for small block engines. The differences are mainly crank stub length,slide vs rotary carb and side vs rear exhaust.

What/how did you modify the mounts? Got pics?
 
The pull starter is larger than the old pro .15, so i had to dremel the edges, I also had to dremel the flat part of the mount that rest against the engine...so the holes would align up. The bottom of the engine isnt rounded like the pro.15 its a block with 2 threaded holes...Ill post some pics in a minute
 
as you can see in the pics, the engines are quite different....I didnt realize it would be this much of an issue...i can't even get the engine to sit flush on the car.
 

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Wow that's an odd looking engine block. What was it originally fitted to? I had an HPI FE.15 but it wasn't like that on the bottom. Looks like a definite chore to make it work,I'm not sure I can help you much with that one.

Maybe we can get our Nitro Guru in here and see if he can offer some help. Just curious,what influenced you to buy that particular engine?
 
Well I decided that I'm not going to give up....I grabbed the dremel and went to work. :) after 4 hours of tedious grinding and cutting here and there, I'm almost done. I have some tweaking yet to do before shes complete but i do have a few pics of what i was doing..
 

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i think the hpi G 3.0 would may have fitted a bit better
 
You would have been better off grinding off the legs on the crank case than cutting your chassis. That will probably weaken it quite a bit.

I think that was HPI's stupid way of turning the crank case into a chassis stiffener. On the Nitro MT (old RS4 version of the MT2), you had to run the stock bell and spur because the engine slots didn't allow for the stock engine to move without new mounts. If I remember right, the chassis had 4 slots for a normal engine and 4 holes for the stocker.

Looks like they did the same thing on the MT2 chassis:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHBW7&P=PU

OS engines come with spacers to raise the engine for clearance of the starter housing since theirs is so large as well. For the life of me, I can't find the stupid things anywhere but on some off beat site:
http://www.familyland.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=192_310&products_id=3944
 
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