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HPI Nitro RS3 Evo engine white smoke from engine head or glow plug area

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hueyc586

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Hello Nitro RC friends,

i have nitro RC engine that won't run until recently use heat gun pointed down at glow plug area. It did finally start but idling was weak, while adjusting idle screw clockwise i was able to increase rpm, however notice white smoke coming from glo plug / head area. I live immediately stop it. It's a new glo plug and checked head gasket...does have 2 metal gaskets, what alasts gets me is the engine block appears to be always damp but can't figure out why. I've already replaced exhaust gasket. What's next? could it be the glo plug seater plate or metal flat o-rings?The engine has very little usage, practically new. I could never get to run right in the past
 
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Something is leaking. I'm no master at this but, set the idle gap first, then do not F with it at all, ever. I will link some videos you should watch. In about an hour, you will have a common grasp of what to do. The engine block will always be wet on the inside because there is no crankcase to hold the oil, the oil and fuel have no place to go other than burn and get exhausted out. If it is wet on the outside surface of the block, you have a leak.
Crankdown the head fairly snug. You can always take a piece of sandpaper, place it on a flat surface and sand the metal gaskets in a figure 8 pattern to get a true surface back into them. Sometimes it's just best to replace them.
Start with this video and watch the entire video.
 
Something, probably water, is evaporating, or your engine is over heating. Surely a great idea to check if anything is wet, and if your cooling head screws and glowplug and washer are tight.

I've had this happen many times and my engine was just way too hot. You were very right to turn it off, then I'd recommend to wait five minutes, start her again and richen it to prevent such temperatures.
Is your fuel not very old, does it have enough oil %?

Btw, sorry to not completely agree with the above, but touch your idle screw as much as you want, it's literally the most simple screw that just determines idle speed, not the fuel-air ratio. As temperatures change, your (low-end) tune changes, and so you ultimately have to adjust the idle speed screw, otherwise the clutch might engage, or the engine might shut down.
 
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