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HPI-Killers AE MGT 4.6 & LRP .32 MGT Thread

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Alrighty folks, got my mill in yesterday and CANNOT stop thinking about it!!! So will be dis-mantling it and sealing it up then dropping it in and will post pics

My Photobucket went whack on me and scrambled all of my trans and diff pics within my 1,500+ pic library....

Pics tonight for sure via TapaTalk
 
Thanks man I hope so too, it didnt come with any shims, am I okay to run my 30%? It says 25%-35%,dont wanna f this up......
 
Ill read through everything tonight after I seal her up. If it calls for added shims I wont run it....

Dont feel like abusing a nearly $200 mill for my impatient wants....
 
Seal up is complete minus the backplate, the screws were so tight with blue loc-tite that 2 of 4 stripped so being that its 12:21am and the house is sleeping, I am forced to wait until morning to dremel the screw heads and seal it up.

Couple of concern questions about sealing, is there some sort of substitute that will work as sealant aroubd the HSN & LSN needle o-rings, or even really necessary?

Also os there a method of protecting the cooling head from flips besides using zipties, or using a body that covers the mill? Thinking about maybe a nice sprayed layer or Rust-oleum peel coat wheel paint, its like plsti-dip, but a tad more pricey. They only thing is I am pretty certain 250*F+ will melt it right off....

Need opinions and knowelage before I put it to the test.

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Also is it at all necessary to seal the head to the block?

A few pics, courtesy to Olds97 & the how-to thread on sealing the mill, thanks man!
Sealing Thread:https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72487

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Alright doing a little reading within googles know-it-all search, and some RCNT searching I ran across this quoted answer from a similar question asked.

powder_king said:
you shouldn't have to change the shims i think on most motors you are alowed to go up or down 5% nitro content before having to reshim so you should be fin. try it if it starts to detonate add a shim
Click to expand...



If that is accurate, then I will just lean the HSN just a LITTLE BIT, for break in then finalize the settings after I suppose...?

Also, when I set my needles for HSN,LSN & Idle gap, does it need to be installed in the truck, and does the truck power have to be on with all trims set to '0' orrr what? When needed I just reset the needles and idle gap back to factory with the power off, I may be doing it all wrong for certain....
 
HPI-Killer said:
Alright doing a little reading within googles know-it-all search, and some RCNT searching I ran across this quoted answer from a similar question asked.





If that is accurate, then I will just lean the HSN just a LITTLE BIT, for break in then finalize the settings after I suppose...?

Also, when I set my needles for HSN,LSN & Idle gap, does it need to be installed in the truck, and does the truck power have to be on with all trims set to '0' orrr what? When needed I just reset the needles and idle gap back to factory with the power off, I may be doing it all wrong for certain....
Click to expand...

I wish I could help you out more with the nitro content question bro, unfortunately I only run 20%. I always set my idle gap after it's installed easier to make sure throttle is going closed but it shouldn't matter either way. Also you are going to need a longer throttle linkage rod for proper throttle operation. Also you need to check the HSN and LSN because all of my LRP's were set wrong for the break in process. Hope If you need a longer throttle rod let me know I can mail a couple I have made they work great.
 
Whalla!! Finally in and ready for good wheather to break her in, I'm super stoked!!!
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hulkmaxx said:
Looks good bro! Blue is better LOL!:D
Click to expand...

Thanks brotha man I think she is lookin SLICK!! While I wait for proper throttle linkages I may be able to rig this one for now.

When I set my needles, mainly my carb gap should I have the rig on but not running with t-trim set at 0, then gap it?

And hell yeah, BLUE IS BETTER!
 
HPI-Killer said:
Thanks brotha man I think she is lookin SLICK!! While I wait for proper throttle linkages I may be able to rig this one for now.

When I set my needles, mainly my carb gap should I have the rig on but not running with t-trim set at 0, then gap it?

And hell yeah, BLUE IS BETTER!
Click to expand...

As soon as the mail runs I will have you a couple of those linkages on the way! When you set your carb gap make sure your throttle linkage is at centered and that your slide on your carb is opening and closing all the way. You will prob have to adjust your idle gap during break in any how. After about 5 tanks through my break in I had to start tuning some it was way overly rich at break in settings.
 
Whats an alright outside temp for break in? I can't stand this crappy weather........
 
Oh fantastic, warmest day is Thurs & Fri @ a whopping 64*&70*....... Grrrrreeeeeeaaaatttttt....
 
voxmagna said:
Look good, stock engine mount and are you using a fuel filter?
Click to expand...

No I am not but I should for the .32 ....

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Well finally I got my 67-70* weather around so its going to finally let me break it in and get some bash time in!! Stoked!!
 
Well I just finished tank 3 of the 5 tank breakin, and every tank so far becomes more and more powerful rage building up and ready to break free on the 6th tank!!!

This mill runs so smooth its unreal, holds a strong n steady idle and from what I have seen from the 1/4 throttle pulls, it has a WICKED STRONG low end punch!!

can't wait to get it broke in so I can GoPro its true potential!!
 
Sweet glad to here its going good. So your liking the .32 so far I take it LOL! I started to rip on mine around tank 7 or so. I can tell you after about a gallon they really start to make some serious punch. Hope those throttle linkages I mailed out to you find there way ok. I mailed them out on Monday.
 

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