high speed needle question!!!

[newnitro2020]

The factory settings on the Kyosho engine is 3 1/2 turn out do I downgrade from that to two and a half turns out. Is this a smart move?

Reason why I'm doing this is to pretty much set away all the unnecessary fuel that will take longer and terms of getting the engine to warm up and tune for the very first time of its life.

 

[alfredwong2003]

You should have no issue going to 2 and a half turn, but you can go to 3 first and go from there.

 

[WVNed]

I have a Kyosho FO XX and an Neo Inferno. They ran really well the way they came and needed very little tuning.

 

[newnitro2020]

I have a Kyosho FO XX and an Neo Inferno. They ran really well the way they came and needed very little tuning.

so do you think that two and a half turns start off adjusting engine for the very first time a good idea? My oil content is 11%

 

[WVNed]

I am saying leave it alone and try starting it the way it came. If I remember right I only had to lean mine out like a 1/4 turn or less.

If I am remembering right.
I was forgetting something
Does your engine have an insert under the air filter in the carb air intake? It's a venturi. Mine came with 2. You break in the engine with one and then put the other in and its got more air so the mixture is leaner. Very little touching of the carb was required on mine.

Easiest cars to run I have.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1969449/Kyosho-Fo-Xx.html?page=20

 

[street silence]

I did mine 3 1/2 turns went down from there once I found where I liked how it ran I backed it up counterclockwise 1/16 of a turn. It has good acceleration. You don’t want to lean your car to much it’s better if you run this engines on the rich side.

 

[D3MON]

The factory settings on the Kyosho engine is 3 1/2 turn out do I downgrade from that to two and a half turns out. Is this a smart move?

Reason why I'm doing this is to pretty much set away all the unnecessary fuel that will take longer and terms of getting the engine to warm up and tune for the very first time of its life.

this is after all break in is done right?
i wouldn't get caught up in exact turn settings at this point. once the engine is warmed up and the chassis is saturated with heat, slowly start leaning it 1/8 - 1/12 turn at a time after a high speed pass or two to clear the crankcase of unspent fuel.

 

[newnitro2020]

this is after all break in is done right?
i wouldn't get caught up in exact turn settings at this point. once the engine is warmed up and the chassis is saturated with heat, slowly start leaning it 1/8 - 1/12 turn at a time after a high speed pass or two to clear the crankcase of unspent fuel.

the break in is done.
waiting for a new fuel tank because the one that I had the lid is wearing out.

 

[newnitro2020]

I decided to keep him at 3 turns out. It's a trick but it will take a lot of fuel to learn how to tune.


One of the main things that I ran into that's new that has nothing to do with me but I want to be vigilant as much as I can. I looked up a information where some people had issues were that idle Rises high on a nitro engine until they apply some throttle and then it goes back down. And then when I looked this up they say that the ls said is too rich. This is kind of tricky because I would think it's a lean issue. Here's the article that I found it's a thread basically.


Here's the link.

https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums...gh-idle-which-drops-after-a-blip-of-throttle/

 

[Greywolf74]

Look at THIS thread right here. A lot of good info on tuning nitro engines and the second post down is a flow chart. I still use that flow chart to this day when tuning nitro engines cuz Honestly I'm not terribly good at it. I love my nitros but I'm much better at electronics than I am engines lol. Seriously though that chart really helped me learn basic tuning skills.

 

[newnitro2020]

this is after all break in is done right?
i wouldn't get caught up in exact turn settings at this point. once the engine is warmed up and the chassis is saturated with heat, slowly start leaning it 1/8 - 1/12 turn at a time after a high speed pass or two to clear the crankcase of unspent fuel.

That chart does not say anything about my question but thanks.

But I do have a thought about something. The reason why the idle drop when you apply throttle when it wasn't doing it before. is because if the low end is too rich, opening up both the spray bar for the high-end and low end see the fuel flow on the low-end is slower than the high-end. So by adding some opening on throttle and then when I get back to close loads to fuel up more than usual.


This is something that I've never was taught before nor people ever talked about in one of the symptoms of a rich low-speed needle settings. I wonder some people talk about a hang idling on high-end and the same could be said on a gap that's open on the idle screw. if the idle drop when you're apply some throttle I wonder if that's the same behavior where the Tuesday scheidel comes in. So you let the car idle for a while and then the idle drop back to normal but then drops lower than would have supposed to.



I wondering this particular scenario that it's the same similar thing but instead of it idling you're applying throttle and so what little throttle you apply. Causes the engine to load excess fuel not So Much from the high-end but on the low end because it's slowing the RPMs of idling down. Again I'm confused on this. I've actually tried to watch it videos of people using actual full scale real cars to see examples more like the engine stumbles and doesn't gain any kind of revving. So if the revs go down then normal as far as after applying throttle. Then the low revs that they just supposed to get a title if it's not gaining it then it's no more different then a high speed issue.


If the high-speed would 2 be set too rich for an example the other way around, the car won't barely move but also you won't hear any High Rev either because it's smothering that down. Tell me if I'm right about this stuff?

 

[Greywolf74]

That chart does not say anything about my question but thanks.

But I do have a thought about something. The reason why the idle drop when you apply throttle when it wasn't doing it before. is because if the low end is too rich, opening up both the spray bar for the high-end and low end see the fuel flow on the low-end is slower than the high-end. So by adding some opening on throttle and then when I get back to close loads to fuel up more than usual.


This is something that I've never was taught before nor people ever talked about in one of the symptoms of a rich low-speed needle settings. I wonder some people talk about a hang idling on high-end and the same could be said on a gap that's open on the idle screw. if the idle drop when you're apply some throttle I wonder if that's the same behavior where the Tuesday scheidel comes in. So you let the car idle for a while and then the idle drop back to normal but then drops lower than would have supposed to.



I wondering this particular scenario that it's the same similar thing but instead of it idling you're applying throttle and so what little throttle you apply. Causes the engine to load excess fuel not So Much from the high-end but on the low end because it's slowing the RPMs of idling down. Again I'm confused on this. I've actually tried to watch it videos of people using actual full scale real cars to see examples more like the engine stumbles and doesn't gain any kind of revving. So if the revs go down then normal as far as after applying throttle. Then the low revs that they just supposed to get a title if it's not gaining it then it's no more different then a high speed issue.


If the high-speed would 2 be set too rich for an example the other way around, the car won't barely move but also you won't hear any High Rev either because it's smothering that down. Tell me if I'm right about this stuff?

I can't answer your question directly but if you follow the tuning flow chart you'll end up with a good tune. Thats why I linked to it.

 

[cbaker65]

That chart does not say anything about my question but thanks.

But I do have a thought about something. The reason why the idle drop when you apply throttle when it wasn't doing it before. is because if the low end is too rich, opening up both the spray bar for the high-end and low end see the fuel flow on the low-end is slower than the high-end. So by adding some opening on throttle and then when I get back to close loads to fuel up more than usual.


This is something that I've never was taught before nor people ever talked about in one of the symptoms of a rich low-speed needle settings. I wonder some people talk about a hang idling on high-end and the same could be said on a gap that's open on the idle screw. if the idle drop when you're apply some throttle I wonder if that's the same behavior where the Tuesday scheidel comes in. So you let the car idle for a while and then the idle drop back to normal but then drops lower than would have supposed to.



I wondering this particular scenario that it's the same similar thing but instead of it idling you're applying throttle and so what little throttle you apply. Causes the engine to load excess fuel not So Much from the high-end but on the low end because it's slowing the RPMs of idling down. Again I'm confused on this. I've actually tried to watch it videos of people using actual full scale real cars to see examples more like the engine stumbles and doesn't gain any kind of revving. So if the revs go down then normal as far as after applying throttle. Then the low revs that they just supposed to get a title if it's not gaining it then it's no more different then a high speed issue.


If the high-speed would 2 be set too rich for an example the other way around, the car won't barely move but also you won't hear any High Rev either because it's smothering that down. Tell me if I'm right about this stuff?

If your engine revs after letting off the throttle ,then your Lsn needle needs to be leaner ,the engine is
loading up on fuel ,then once you lean that needle in a little ,your engine may start to idle high ,then
you go back to your idle screw an drop the idle down with it!

 

[newnitro2020]

I can't answer your question directly but if you follow the tuning flow chart you'll end up with a good tune. Thats why I linked to it.

I know!!!!!
I'm just one of those type of folks that likes to know things at detail lot just at first glance the first time. It not only makes you stronger as far as knowledge but you can also use other things such as the chart that you linked. Just like doing things to hard way because I found throughout my life it's the best way to get perfect performance, as far as answers and thorough information and details. Someday I want to do a video and share those ideas to folks. Of course nothing is perfect all the time. But as the old saying goes practice makes perfect. I hope that makes sense if not I'm sorry. Already got the chart saved on my computer so. It's just when I print it out it's really hard because the Predator takes away the rest of the arrows. So there's something with my printer that's doing that.




Some people for instance when they tune the low speed hypothetically. Example I'm using the low speed. They liked it pinch the line which is the quickest easiest way to test to see if it's tuned. I think based on everything I see it's kind of study I like to try the other way which is actually directly tuning it and fill it out. The performance basically. So my point in this paragraph some like chocolate sunlight vanilla type of scenario.
Thank you for what you were able to do god bless and stay safe.

 

[newnitro2020]

If your engine revs after letting off the throttle ,then your Lsn needle needs to be leaner ,the engine is
loading up on fuel ,then once you lean that needle in a little ,your engine may start to idle high ,then
you go back to your idle screw an drop the idle down with it!

Sounds like you mean when the engine runs high when you blip it it brings it down which means that it's letting more fuel load into the crankcase that when it's supposed to be. So that would mean that both the high and low it's filling up the crankcase as well that guess that would explain why all of a sudden the low settling basically.





You see this is something I did not know I came across of it by accident I don't know how I don't know where to begin. always was curious about it, but it's just confusing because if the item Rises high and then goes down flip out the throttle some people may confuse it and think it's a high-speed needle but then if it was a high-speed needle issue, the idle would have stayed down for a short time and then rise back up.


If that is not the case then a rich low-speed needle settings would mean that the idle runs either on the normal or on a higher idle and then when you apply the throttle the low speed with the extra fuel makes the idling go down the whole time continuously otherwise.



Yeah that's one of the reasons that people get annoyed with me is because I like to learn things in a way that I like to break stuff down and learn in detail. For those that really see it for what it is as far as myself they find it fascinating. Others just figured why can't you go the easy way and stay with it kind of attitude? But for me I don't know I found in the past that narrow is the way and a few will find it kind of point of view.












Obi-Wan said to Luke, 'that you're going to find many of the truth that we clean to it.' 'would depend greatly on our own point of view'. Return of the Jedi.

 

[cbaker65]

Sounds like you mean when the engine runs high when you blip it it brings it down which means that it's letting more fuel load into the crankcase that when it's supposed to be. So that would mean that both the high and low it's filling up the crankcase as well that guess that would explain why all of a sudden the low settling basically.





You see this is something I did not know I came across of it by accident I don't know how I don't know where to begin. always was curious about it, but it's just confusing because if the item Rises high and then goes down flip out the throttle some people may confuse it and think it's a high-speed needle but then if it was a high-speed needle issue, the idle would have stayed down for a short time and then rise back up.


If that is not the case then a rich low-speed needle settings would mean that the idle runs either on the normal or on a higher idle and then when you apply the throttle the low speed with the extra fuel makes the idling go down the whole time continuously otherwise.



Yeah that's one of the reasons that people get annoyed with me is because I like to learn things in a way that I like to break stuff down and learn in detail. For those that really see it for what it is as far as myself they find it fascinating. Others just figured why can't you go the easy way and stay with it kind of attitude? But for me I don't know I found in the past that narrow is the way and a few will find it kind of point of view.












Obi-Wan said to Luke, 'that you're going to find many of the truth that we clean to it.' 'would depend greatly on our own point of view'. Return of the Jedi.

I actually learned it from a racer He shows the exact same scenerio that you described ,an said that the lsn needed to be leaned
a little bit ,an he actually showed the engine it running ,when he hit the throttle an let off ,it revved ,it is called a hang throttle ,
then he said that it is the lsn too rich ,so he leaned the lsn out a little ,an when he did ,the engine idled up ,then he said to go
back to the idle set screw to curb the idle back down ,then when he hit full throttle again an let off of it ,it settled down with out
the hanging rev!

So my guess is ,the engine has a lot of fuel in the crank case still an that is why the high rev ,the blip of the throttle
only clears it out enough to idle it down as it blows the ecess fuel out faster!...