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HELP !!!! T maxx 3.3

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timmyoleboy69

RC Newbie
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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
I have a tmaxx 2.5 upgraded to 3.3 i just bought it off of ebay the guy i bought t from upgraded it.It has not been broke in yet i have the HSN 4 turns out and the LNS 1 3/4 out it starts fine and idles fine until the engine warms up then the RPM goes up and the truck starts jumping lke its going into gear then slippiing out i really need help i a have been messing with it for days and really dont know what to do i am a newbie so if you can help i will be thankful

---------- Post added at 5:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:28 PM ----------

I have a tmaxx 2.5 upgraded to 3.3 i just bought it off of ebay the guy i bought t from upgraded it.It has not been broke in yet i have the HSN 4 turns out and the LNS 1 3/4 out it starts fine and idles fine until the engine warms up then the RPM goes up and the truck starts jumping lke its going into gear then slippiing out i really need help i a have been messing with it for days and really dont know what to do i am a newbie so if you can help i will be thankful
 
That is most likely because the idol is set to high the "jumping" is caused by the clutch engaging and immediately disengaging as the revs drop. I dont know what climate you are in so just make sure that you have a constant blue stream of smoke coming out of the exhaust at all times and you should be fine, once the engine is fully broken you will have a much easier time with tuning
 
Pop off your air filter,with the throttle in the closed possition there should be a 1mm opening"idle gap" to me it sounds lean on the bottom end,the low end needle should be flush with its outer ring,this is a good starting point,

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As the other guys said it might just be that the idle is set too high, but if you have got the t maxx with a black tranny with reverse the jumping/bucking is normal.
 
No don't touch the needles if its not broken in. They are set for break in. Just run it until its broke in and once that's done you can idle it down by richening the LSN. Do not touch the idle screw. If you did be sure to put it back where ever it was. My tmaxx did the same thing, I simply did what I just said and it went away.

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---------- Post added at 6:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:59 PM ----------

Actually be sure you tune your HSN after break in first! Do the usual steps, get it running good, THEN adjust lsn because you will be leaning the HSN and it will idle it up even more during tuning.

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synnyzter that is only true for some people in some areas, if you live higher or lower there is a pressure difference so the needles need to be changed for break in and if you live where it is warmer or colder it will need to be adjusted, you can change the needles for break in as long as the truck holds a decent idol and there is a constant blue stream of smoke coming out of the exhaust
 
Uhh your missing the point. You can break in an engine with factory pretty much anywhere, I just did mine in the smokies (high altitude) at factory and was at proper mixture and temps. The.point here is why its doing what its doing and my post explained how to remedy it instead of people telling him to mess with his needles.... I have a tmaxx...I know exactly what he's talking about and I knew how.to fix it. Anyhow if he was at high altitude so you think leaning it is a good idea? Lol. Last thing he needs is to buy a new engine a month down the road...

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---------- Post added at 11:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 PM ----------

Forgot to mention...atmospheric temps. Still factory is very rich and for a reason. It will be just fine unless he's in the Andes or valley of death lol. A little change can't hurt no, but it will be fine but I'm sure he read the manual as it explains this...


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I have been racing rcs for several years and i am a mechanic so don't tell me that I'm missing the point i have 3 tmaxx trucks and 2 revos, and if you read your manual it says that some adjustment of the needles might be required for break in due to location and temperature
 
The "BUCKING" is normal with the black transmission w/reverse. The fix is to install the FOC and get rid of reverse all together. I'm also agreeing that to get the idle down you need to richen the lsn. Stock settings for the trx carb is 4 out on hsn and flush with the slide valve on the lsn. Note the picture
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Flush on the lsn is more than the 1 3/4 turns you say it is set at and if thats the case the lsn being lean will cause high idle.
 
I have been racing rcs for several years and i am a mechanic so don't tell me that I'm missing the point i have 3 tmaxx trucks and 2 revos, and if you read your manual it says that some adjustment of the needles might be required for break in due to location and temperature

Well we are here to discuss his transmission not have him mess up his break in...but ty for your career history. And I mentioned the manual thing so read before you quote someone please.

Anyhow yes its normal but as I said above it will mostly go away once ya get it broke in and tuned well. I agree removing the reverse is not a bad idea but If you like it, keep it. For bashing reverse can be handy at time and save you a few sprints across the yard lol. If you plan on racing that would be the first thing you'd want to do is remove reverse, if it were me anyhow.

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