Help a Nitro guy find fun with electric again

[Mister 4x4]

I'm sitting here brainstorming on what kind of power system I need for my field box (to power the starter boxes and recharge receiver packs, etc.) and thought it might be fun to have my old Kyosho Pegasus running again, just for funzies. I've got one of these on the way: iCharger 75 AMP 900 WATT 12 DC VOLT Power Supply W/ USB FPV iCharger 406 4010

My Ram has a couple of power inverters on-board for AC power, but I'm also thinking of wiring up some extended gator clips from the battery to the bed for easy access from the tailgate 'fielding' area. Does this device charge the batteries, or is it just a power converter to power a DC-based battery charger and starter motor? If so, what's a good (inexpensive) quick-charger for some 6-cell flat-pack batteries?

Next question: What would be the best Mabuchi RS-540 replacement and 6-cell flat pack to go with a Novak Rooster ESC? I'll be eliminating the old school wiper-arm speed controller, and grabbing a few batteries just to have some fun with it. The stock stuff was pretty anemic and didn't last all that long, so I'm hoping for a little more oomph and longer run-times. I'm not looking to race it or anything, although I might put it down on the track just to see what it would do with a full bearing kit and hotter battery/motor combo (looking to blow a few minds and get some laughs more than anything else - much like I'm thinking about converting the Evil Twin to nitro - LOL!!).

Here's a shot of the Pegasus and his Evil Twin, just waiting for shenanigans. The silver rear wheels with the spikes on the Pegasus came from Evil Twin, which is why I'm thinking he'd be more fun as a nitro car.

So, I need recommendations on:

• Battery Charger/monitor/discharger unit
• 6-cell battery packs (more power and run time, but not expensive) - I'm thinking 3 packs should do for my needs.
• Replacement motor for RS-540 with more power and durability
• Best plugs - I'm used to Deans and Tamiya, but open to others.

...And GO!

 

[9x19]

Battery capacity has improved quite a bit, a 5000mAH battery, or two, are easy to find at reasonable prices, these days. I still have my old Ice charger for NiNH packs, but most of today's chargers will do multiple chemistry. I like the Hota D6 Pro, small footprint, good capability.

 

[jimdavis577]

MAN a Kyosho Pegasus !!!!! I havent seen one of those in years ! This was my 2nd rc car, 1st was the OG Wild Willys. That Peg thou has the old plastic og bones with the start shape on the end of them that would strip so fast it wasn't funny lmao.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I've got some spare metal dog bones from the SuperTen along with some spare cups that will hopefully fit without too much work. I'm thinking the plastic ones should be OK with the new electrics, but when I dig into converting Evil Twin to nitro, I'll most likely need to source a nitro transmission & drive bits from one of the older Kyosho nitro buggies to make it all work without grenading on the first romp. It ought to be fun trying to source some new rubber, too, since those are pretty much nothing like the newer buggy wheels/tires. I already found a new body kit which will probably get a similar paint job, but maybe using blues instead of orange/yellow.

 

[WickedFog]

For batteries (top to bottom - the Max Amps and CNHL parallel are drag racing packs).

Charger - Hota D6 Pro

For motor/ESC - I put a Castle Sidewinder combo in my Ultima with a 3800kv motor. A shelf queen. But I tested it in my living room on the carpet. First pull of the trigger it did a standing backflip

For connectors, the XT60's are my favs for my 2s stuff. Stick with Amass brand connectors as the Chinese ones will melt fairly easily.

 

[jojobeans]

Your 7 pin trailer connector has a 12v constant wire on it. Instead of running wires from the battery, I’d just take a 7 pin plug and make an adapter to go to your charger. Removable, easy to store and non permanent. Most vehicles push 12-15amps through that wiring, so it should be plenty for even a nice charger like a hota d6 pro.

I’d also look into LiPo’s. Even if the ESC isn’t LiPo compatible, they should handle a 2s LiPo. If they have no LVC, you can get external LiPo alarms for pretty cheap. Way better than NiMh and newer technology.

 

[WickedFog]

Your 7 pin trailer connector has a 12v constant wire on it. Instead of running wires from the battery, I’d just take a 7 pin plug and make an adapter to go to your charger. Removable, easy to store and non permanent. Most vehicles push 12-15amps through that wiring, so it should be plenty for even a nice charger like a hota d6 pro.

Haha, I never would have even thought of that

 

[jojobeans]

Haha, I never would have even thought of that

I hate running wires, doing things more than once and I’m lazy. Just like electricity, I’m taking the path of least resistance!

 

[Mister 4x4]

Jojobeans, that is an OUTSTANDING idea. Thank you! I'm right there with ya on "Do it right so you only have to do it once."

So, in one of those 'Pack-Out' boxes, I'll be making a power panel/box much like what Jim did, so I can keep the electrical needs tidy and separate (one side with 110 AC and the other side for DC - from the truck). That way I can use either track power in the pits, or field off the tailgate as needs be. I guess I just need a small connector panel for the DC-side, kind like what's on the iCharger Power Supply so I can plug-in my starter box/motor as needed depending on which power source is in use.

 

[jojobeans]

Jojobeans, that is an OUTSTANDING idea. Thank you! I'm right there with ya on "Do it right so you only have to do it once."

So, in one of those 'Pack-Out' boxes, I'll be making a power panel/box much like what Jim did, so I can keep the electrical needs tidy and separate (one side with 110 AC and the other side for DC - from the truck). That way I can use either track power in the pits, or field off the tailgate as needs be. I guess I just need a small connector panel for the DC-side, kind like what's on the iCharger Power Supply so I can plug-in my starter box/motor as needed depending on which power source is in use.

Maybe this can give you some inspiration. I don’t have power running to it, I just use it for transportation purposes. The orange tray is where is tore all my charge leads. Rags, glow ignition, smaller usb chargers and larger cords go underneath it. The pocket on the right is where I’ll put batteries when I go out. I’m the center I used open cell foam to keep my charger and program card snug so it doesn’t get tossed around during transport.

I have this stacked on top of two other boxes. One has drawers for tools and the other is a rolling box with wheels I keep spare parts, electronics screw kits, etc in.

Excuse the mess, it’s currently stuffed inside of a closet

 

[jimdavis577]

Jojobeans, that is an OUTSTANDING idea. Thank you! I'm right there with ya on "Do it right so you only have to do it once."

So, in one of those 'Pack-Out' boxes, I'll be making a power panel/box much like what Jim did, so I can keep the electrical needs tidy and separate (one side with 110 AC and the other side for DC - from the truck). That way I can use either track power in the pits, or field off the tailgate as needs be. I guess I just need a small connector panel for the DC-side, kind like what's on the iCharger Power Supply so I can plug-in my starter box/motor as needed depending on which power source is in use.

so actually on the side of the drawer where my power supply is and my charger is in. I have a 3 prong AC PC power plug. It uses a standard pc power cord and the connector secures right into a hole cutout for it, putting the output in a easy post to wire from to anything inside the drawer.

 

[Mister 4x4]

No, that's perfect! I was comparing all of the various modular plastic portable toolbox solutions, and I also like the Ridgid ones the best (partly because they're less expensive than the Milwaukees or DeWalts, and actually available at my local Home Depot - ). I'm thinking of mounting the power stuff on either side with the middle being storage for cables and whatnot, with the AC power block on one side and the DC power block on the other. I like the drawers for tools and spare parts, and the big bin for the starter boxes, tires, etc. I've still got my field bags for the cars themselves.

@jimdavis577 - that's exactly what I'm thinking, but with the other side for DC that I can plug the trailer plug extension into, so I could use either 110 AC in the pits, or the DC feed from the truck if using the tail gate.

Good stuff, guys!

 

[jimdavis577]

No, that's perfect! I was comparing all of the various modular plastic portable toolbox solutions, and I also like the Ridgid ones the best (partly because they're less expensive than the Milwaukees or DeWalts, and actually available at my local Home Depot - ). I'm thinking of mounting the power stuff on either side with the middle being storage for cables and whatnot, with the AC power block on one side and the DC power block on the other. I like the drawers for tools and spare parts, and the big bin for the starter boxes, tires, etc. I've still got my field bags for the cars themselves.

@jimdavis577 - that's exactly what I'm thinking, but with the other side for DC that I can plug the trailer plug extension into, so I could use either 110 AC in the pits, or the DC feed from the truck if using the tail gate.

Good stuff, guys!

and if you get super creative you can use a piece of plexiglass to make plates in the drawers like i did, to mount different component's. You can letter them from back side, lightly mist paint on the underside ( after scuffing for adhesion reasons) then back light it with a cheap Walmart LED light kit

 

[jojobeans]

No, that's perfect! I was comparing all of the various modular plastic portable toolbox solutions, and I also like the Ridgid ones the best (partly because they're less expensive than the Milwaukees or DeWalts, and actually available at my local Home Depot - ). I'm thinking of mounting the power stuff on either side with the middle being storage for cables and whatnot, with the AC power block on one side and the DC power block on the other. I like the drawers for tools and spare parts, and the big bin for the starter boxes, tires, etc. I've still got my field bags for the cars themselves.

@jimdavis577 - that's exactly what I'm thinking, but with the other side for DC that I can plug the trailer plug extension into, so I could use either 110 AC in the pits, or the DC feed from the truck if using the tail gate.

Good stuff, guys!

Take a look at Walmarts Hart Brand pack out boxes, they’re a fraction of the cost of even the rigid boxes and look like good quality. Tons of variety too, my Walmart is good about keeping them stocked. But, your Walmart may be different.

Husky makes some really good ones too, although there isn’t much options. Ryobi is terrible, I wouldn’t bother with them. Poorly built and an annoying locking system.

Rigid, in my opinion, has the best locking system. Easy to use, simple and solid. I don’t think you can go wrong with the rigid stuff if that what you decide on. But, I’d give the other brands a look as they all offer something the other doesn’t.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I'm thinking of perforated sheet metal. I wound up with 4 2'x4' sheets after ordering a pair from Wal-Mart... which they canceled and refunded after a few days for non-availability. Then I ordered a pair from US Metal, which showed up a few days later... followed by the ones from Wal-Mart which showed up a few days after that.

The Hart stuff looks decent. It's weird, though. We have 3 Supercenters in town, one has the drawer and small divided (clear top) units, but not the main kit. The other 2 have the main kit and 3 case organizer, bigger flip-top but no 2-drawer or small flip-top. So, to get the kit I'm thinking of, might require visiting all 3 stores. Oh well, it's not like San Angelo is all THAT big. First World Problems... I know. LOL!!

Edit: Just put the Hart stuff I'd want into the Cart, and the Ridgid stuff I'd want into the Cart, and the Hart stuff is almost $100 cheaper, even with one more module added. I guess I'll be hitting Wal-Mart. Thanks for the tip, jojo.

 

[Greywolf74]

I've got one of these on the way: iCharger 75 AMP 900 WATT 12 DC VOLT Power Supply W/ USB FPV iCharger 406 4010

I'm a bit confused as to what is written in that link. That power supply is from RL Power not iCharger. Not sure what the ending "w/USB FPV iCharger 406 4010" is supposed to mean either. That power supply is too small for a 406 or a 4010. Just FYSA.

• Battery Charger/monitor/discharger unit
• 6-cell battery packs (more power and run time, but not expensive) - I'm thinking 3 packs should do for my needs.
• Replacement motor for RS-540 with more power and durability
• Best plugs - I'm used to Deans and Tamiya, but open to others.

...And GO!

I agree with WickedFog on the HOTA D6 Pro. It doesn't sound like you need anything big like the aforementioned iCharger 406/4010. In fact for NiXX packs you could just use a HOTA D6 Pro on AC and you wont even need to lug around the DC PSU.

For NiXX packs Id look at Tenergy.

If you're used to Deans then keep using them. Make sure to use genuine Deans though. They are the best anyway. (*Braces Himself for the backlash...*)

 

[Mister 4x4]

I'm a bit confused as to what is written in that link. That power supply is from RL Power not iCharger. Not sure what the ending "w/USB FPV iCharger 406 4010" is supposed to mean either. That power supply is too small for a 406 or a 4010. Just FYSA.

Beats me. It was recommended as a good DC power block for field use. I'm primarily a nitro guy, and I'm guessing that'll be good to run my starter boxes if in the pits with 110AC available, rather than just using the clips on the truck's battery. I'm building a 'one size fits all' kind of a field kit.

 

[Greywolf74]

Beats me. It was recommended as a good DC power block for field use. I'm primarily a nitro guy, and I'm guessing that'll be good to run my starter boxes if in the pits with 110AC available, rather than just using the clips on the truck's battery. I'm building a 'one size fits all' kind of a field kit.

Yeah, I have/have had several PSUs over the years that I/were made from Server power supplies. Even the one I bought 13–14 years ago is still plodding along. I'm sure your PSU will work fine depending on what kind of charger, charge speeds, and battery chemistries you're looking to do. Just don't try to charge 4S lipos at more than about 18A ea. and don't charge 6S lipos at more than 12A each, and that PSU will be fine. That being said, it doesn't sound like you're going to be doing anything even close to that so game on!

 

[Mister 4x4]

Yeah - I don't even know what you mean by 4S, 6S, or lipos - that's that electric stuff I grew to dislike early on.

As for battery packs and motors: I'm just looking for something that's better than the old Tamiya 6-cell NiMh 'flat pack' and Mabuchi RS-540 can I got with the Pegasus back in 1985. I'm just wanting to wake up the Pegasus again and have it available to play with now and then. It's not a competitive car, after all... just a backyard beater out of the box. It would outrun my buddy's Grasshopper and Frog, but only just barely.

The power supply box I'm making will give me power options no matter where I'm at so I can hopefully field straight out of the box without having to unpack everything just to put a car down and run it.

That's the plan, anyway.