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Hbx 16889a pro

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Everyone knows everything is made in China. Some of the actual “metal” parts on these Amazon cars are lower grade metal than your arrma, Traxxas, Tekno, losi, etc etc. I know this for a fact because I have a hypergo and a lot of other car brands.
A $300 mini maxx is worlds apart from the hypergo. The Tekno is on another level. The arrma stuff also looks solid. This is why we pay more, it’s just a better quality of car.
No point in arguing on this one because I am right 🙃
I won't argue, but will say it's a fun game to play... "How Cheap Can I Go" 🙋‍♂️ :stick::hehe:
 
Everyone knows everything is made in China. Some of the actual “metal” parts on these Amazon cars are lower grade metal than your arrma, Traxxas, Tekno, losi, etc etc. I know this for a fact because I have a hypergo and a lot of other car brands.
A $300 mini maxx is worlds apart from the hypergo. The Tekno is on another level. The arrma stuff also looks solid. This is why we pay more, it’s just a better quality of car.
No point in arguing on this one because I am right 🙃
OHHH!

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Everyone knows everything is made in China. Some of the actual “metal” parts on these Amazon cars are lower grade metal than your arrma, Traxxas, Tekno, losi, etc etc. I know this for a fact because I have a hypergo and a lot of other car brands.
A $300 mini maxx is worlds apart from the hypergo. The Tekno is on another level. The arrma stuff also looks solid. This is why we pay more, it’s just a better quality of car.
No point in arguing on this one because I am right 🙃
I have owned a little bit of everything from cheap WPL, WLToys, to higher end RC's, and everything in between. The cheaper Chinese stuff sometimes uses what we called in the machining industry - bubblegum. It's tough to machine it because it galls up on the tooling and creates a mess. It's what you see on aluminum radiators in the racing industry. Where a 6061 T6 radiator would crack in a wreck, the bubblegum aluminum will just bend. We had Jeff Gordon's used radiator in the showroom. It looked like it got ran over by a bulldozer, and it still held pressure. It is great material for stamping, and is much cheaper to mass produce parts out of it, but it's crap for durability of parts that need to maintain their shape. But this is why the Chinese use it. It's why their cars are so cheap. They don't spend a lot making them 😉
 
6061-T6 is a specific type of aluminum alloy known for its strength, weldability, and corrosion resistance. The "6061" refers to the alloy family, while "T6" indicates a specific temper (heat treatment) applied to the alloy. This temper involves solution heat treatment and artificial aging, resulting in increased strength and hardness. 6061-T6 is widely used in various industries, including aerospace, transportation, and construction.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:
  • 6061 Alloy:
    This is a 6000-series aluminum alloy, meaning it contains magnesium and silicon as its primary alloying elements. These elements enhance its strength and corrosion resistance.
    • T6 Temper:
      The T6 temper designation signifies that the alloy has been subjected to a solution heat treatment (heating to a high temperature to dissolve alloying elements) followed by artificial aging (heating at a lower temperature to precipitate strengthening particles). This process significantly increases the alloy's strength and hardness.
      • Properties:
        • Strength: 6061-T6 has a high strength-to-weight ratio, making it suitable for applications where weight is a concern.
        • Corrosion Resistance: It offers good resistance to corrosion, particularly in marine environments, due to its alloy composition.
        • Weldability: 6061-T6 can be readily welded using various methods.
        • Machinability: It is generally considered a machinable alloy, although it can be prone to warping under intense machining conditions due to residual stresses from the heat treatment.
 
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6061-T6 is a specific type of aluminum alloy known for its strength, weldability, and corrosion resistance. The "6061" refers to the alloy family, while "T6" indicates a specific temper (heat treatment) applied to the alloy. This temper involves solution heat treatment and artificial aging, resulting in increased strength and hardness. 6061-T6 is widely used in various industries, including aerospace, transportation, and construction.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:
  • 6061 Alloy:
    This is a 6000-series aluminum alloy, meaning it contains magnesium and silicon as its primary alloying elements. These elements enhance its strength and corrosion resistance.
    • T6 Temper:
      The T6 temper designation signifies that the alloy has been subjected to a solution heat treatment (heating to a high temperature to dissolve alloying elements) followed by artificial aging (heating at a lower temperature to precipitate strengthening particles). This process significantly increases the alloy's strength and hardness.
      • Properties:
          • Strength: 6061-T6 has a high strength-to-weight ratio, making it suitable for applications where weight is a concern.
          • Corrosion Resistance: It offers good resistance to corrosion, particularly in marine environments, due to its alloy composition.
          • Weldability: 6061-T6 can be readily welded using various methods.
          • Machinability: It is generally considered a machinable alloy, although it can be prone to warping under intense machining conditions due to residual stresses from the heat treatment.
Yup. ChatGPT to the rescue 😆😝

It's all in the temper. But I guarantee you some of the Chinese RC's I have owned that claimed to have 6061 T6 aluminum components on them were complete lies. It's like Integy hopup parts. They claim to be 6061 T6, but they're definitely not. They bend way too easily. Like bubblegum.

But it's not just the Chinese brands doing it. Arrma claims their Kraton chassis are 7075 T6, and they are most certainly not. Much better than the cheaper off-brand Chinese aluminum stuff, but still not the 7075 T6 they claim to be using. But then again, their stuff is made in China too. Horizon is just too dumb to verify they got what they paid for.

It's all in what you pay for. Good stuff costs money. Cheap stuff is cheap for a reason.
 
Yup. ChatGPT to the rescue 😆😝

It's all in the temper. But I guarantee you some of the Chinese RC's I have owned that claimed to have 6061 T6 aluminum components on them were complete lies. It's like Integy hopup parts. They claim to be 6061 T6, but they're definitely not. They bend way too easily. Like bubblegum.

But it's not just the Chinese brands doing it. Arrma claims their Kraton chassis are 7075 T6, and they are most certainly not. Much better than the cheaper off-brand Chinese aluminum stuff, but still not the 7075 T6 they claim to be using. But then again, their stuff is made in China too. Horizon is just too dumb to verify they got what they paid for.

It's all in what you pay for. Good stuff costs money. Cheap stuff is cheap for a reason.
I've machined on some of the Arrma 7075 components. For modding. It's not the same 7075 I've machined in a machine shop. It's not 6061, but it's soft 7075. Maybe a low grade or no tempering. A soft extrusion.
 
I've machined on some of the Arrma 7075 components. For modding. It's not the same 7075 I've machined in a machine shop. It's not 6061, but it's soft 7075. Maybe a low grade or no tempering. A soft extrusion.
That was what I figured as well after watching Kevin Talbot reshape an Arrma Kraton 8s chassis with some gentle, soft blows from a mallet. He then gave an M2C chassis a beating and it sprang right back into shape.
 
My starter RC Car was the HBX 18859.
Good News: Very affordable. $88 brushed motor and plastic shocks. Upgraded shocks, brushed motor, Brushed ESC and steering gyro and LIPO battery. All upgrade parts were readily available from the manufacturer or online vendors. Parts designed to be crash "malleable". Easy to locate, replace/install. Total upgrade $95. I'm running a 1400 MAh 15C battery. If I crash it, I can easily repair it with in replacement parts in 7-10 days. After 4 months of frequent use, It's still fun to drive:)
Bad News: Bumpers, suspension, and frame parts are not made of hardened steel railroad rails and not designed for running down 20 concrete steps or 20 foot flips to a hard surface. ;)Does not last long with reckless-irresponsible kids. :rolleyes:
 
My starter RC Car was the HBX 18859.
Good News: Very affordable. $88 brushed motor and plastic shocks. Upgraded shocks, brushed motor, Brushed ESC and steering gyro and LIPO battery. All upgrade parts were readily available from the manufacturer or online vendors. Parts designed to be crash "malleable". Easy to locate, replace/install. Total upgrade $95. I'm running a 1400 MAh 15C battery. If I crash it, I can easily repair it with in replacement parts in 7-10 days. After 4 months of frequent use, It's still fun to drive:)
Bad News: Bumpers, suspension, and frame parts are not made of hardened steel railroad rails and not designed for running down 20 concrete steps or 20 foot flips to a hard surface. ;)Does not last long with reckless-irresponsible kids. :rolleyes:
So you dumped $95 into an $88 car?
 
I have a question for everyone. Am I the only one who thinks HBX 16889a pro are not that good or did I get a new junk one? I bought one and the first day 1 and one and a half batteries of playing and the servo stripped so had to replace that, then the front axle broke. Ok I give it to the servo as it had plastic gears which I thought I bought the upgraded one and they would not warranty it. I know my yard is not exactly flat but not bad enough to break a basher and the only ramp I have hit was in my yard which it is hard to go full throttle so I could only jump it no more that 2 feet and the ramp is 18" tall and this is in all grass. Any advice I am not happy with it.
Warranty it. Mine are tanks. I have 3. Ordered on alibaba and got a great deal on them. Contact haiboxing and they might send you parts. Nothing broke on mine. Same situation as you just backyard driving no major bashing. Only thing I've noticed is the rear shocks sag after alot of driving and need to be looked at. Haiboxing.com or xinlhongtoys.com for parts. You have to wait but cheaper than amazon/ebay.

Is it possible you didn't get the pro model on got the cheaper quality 16889 model?
 
That's just what I was thinking thank you. I am thinking of going only American made.
I love hbx. They are actually really good budget rcs. They aren't in the same league as other amazon rcs. I have 5 of the 2996a I love them so much. I dont bash hard but I drive them hard daily. The one 2996a I put pack after pack through almost day to work my dog out has had nothing break. I've had to tighten a screw, and reattach a servo arm. Other than my 2wd stampede no other rc has had as few of problems. Team associated mt10? Junk. Rear wheel snapped off just cornering in the street on the 3rd pack through it. Arrma gorgon made it through maybe a dozen packs before servo went, but I will say I knew this was a week point and have brushless upgrade and servo upgrade sitting on the bench waiting for me to get to it. Traxxas maxx v2 is a tank but even that 5 or 6 packs in dropped a screw and was out of commission for a few days whilei waited for delivery. 5 2996a. 100 bucks worth of basic parts for a tanky, easy to work on fleet of Chinese rcs. I'd keep my hbx 16889a pros, 903a, 2996a, maxx v2, pede. And happily sell the rest of my rcs and never look back.
 
Warranty it. Mine are tanks. I have 3. Ordered on alibaba and got a great deal on them. Contact haiboxing and they might send you parts. Nothing broke on mine. Same situation as you just backyard driving no major bashing. Only thing I've noticed is the rear shocks sag after alot of driving and need to be looked at. Haiboxing.com or xinlhongtoys.com for parts. You have to wait but cheaper than amazon/ebay.

Is it possible you didn't get the pro model on got the cheaper quality 16889 model?
I ordered it from banggood and I did try to warranty it through Haiboxing but they told me they don't sell them on any of those places including Amazon. So we'll it is what it is. I hot the front replacement axles from aliexpress and the quality is cheaper. The shafts are smaller from aliexpress.
 
I love hbx. They are actually really good budget rcs. They aren't in the same league as other amazon rcs. I have 5 of the 2996a I love them so much. I dont bash hard but I drive them hard daily. The one 2996a I put pack after pack through almost day to work my dog out has had nothing break. I've had to tighten a screw, and reattach a servo arm. Other than my 2wd stampede no other rc has had as few of problems. Team associated mt10? Junk. Rear wheel snapped off just cornering in the street on the 3rd pack through it. Arrma gorgon made it through maybe a dozen packs before servo went, but I will say I knew this was a week point and have brushless upgrade and servo upgrade sitting on the bench waiting for me to get to it. Traxxas maxx v2 is a tank but even that 5 or 6 packs in dropped a screw and was out of commission for a few days whilei waited for delivery. 5 2996a. 100 bucks worth of basic parts for a tanky, easy to work on fleet of Chinese rcs. I'd keep my hbx 16889a pros, 903a, 2996a, maxx v2, pede. And happily sell the rest of my rcs and never look back.
I am gonna try to put a vw bug body and play with some painting. We will see lol. I will post pics when I'm done. It will be a few but.
 
Any suggestions on one that is equal to the mjx h14bm? I can work on money maybe just not right away lol.
Traxxas mini xrt.bigger and better. Nothing maxx about the mini maxx. Hbx 2996a is basically the same thing performance wise with a center diff for $150-$180.
 
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