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gear meshing
- Thread starter autoro
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yes
paper, from what I hear is a "technique" used to graphically demonstrate the gap that should be between the teeth but easier to talk about than actually put into practice.
when checking mesh, you want parallel full tooth engagement, but not so tight as to create a binding and excess heat build up. Carefully fully seat the teeth and check by holding bell still and move spur. you should, if in a quiet place, hear a tic of the teeth tapping together or even feel it..but you probably won't really see the motion. The mesh you set is not always what will be there after you tighten your bolts so check it again. once set, they should spin on each other freely by flicking the spur with a finger. if they stop as soon as you release it, they are probably too tight or your drive train is dirty. A small inspection mirror and a flash light if available will help you look straight in to the side of the gears to make sure they are full engaged without being too tight..if no mirror is available, go by feel. Deliberatly set them a little tight once and you will the drag they create from excess friction. then back them off to just barely engaging and feel how much slop there is between the teeth. Once you understand your inner and outer absolute limits of the teeth engaging you should have a better feel of what fully engaged but not too tight will feel like and more than likely never forget.
paper, from what I hear is a "technique" used to graphically demonstrate the gap that should be between the teeth but easier to talk about than actually put into practice.
when checking mesh, you want parallel full tooth engagement, but not so tight as to create a binding and excess heat build up. Carefully fully seat the teeth and check by holding bell still and move spur. you should, if in a quiet place, hear a tic of the teeth tapping together or even feel it..but you probably won't really see the motion. The mesh you set is not always what will be there after you tighten your bolts so check it again. once set, they should spin on each other freely by flicking the spur with a finger. if they stop as soon as you release it, they are probably too tight or your drive train is dirty. A small inspection mirror and a flash light if available will help you look straight in to the side of the gears to make sure they are full engaged without being too tight..if no mirror is available, go by feel. Deliberatly set them a little tight once and you will the drag they create from excess friction. then back them off to just barely engaging and feel how much slop there is between the teeth. Once you understand your inner and outer absolute limits of the teeth engaging you should have a better feel of what fully engaged but not too tight will feel like and more than likely never forget.
Amoeba
RCTalk Addict
To add to cptvkirk's excellent information, bear in mind that most plastic spur gears are not perfectly circular. There are imperfections & variations which can leave one section of your spur with a wider circumference than the rest.
Before doing the process cptvkirk suggests above, put your mesh somewhat tight so you can feel resistance as you spin. Going by feel, see if there is a section of spur which is tighter than the rest by rolling the gears back and forth. Find the center point of that tighter section. You'll want to set your gear mesh at that point of the spur gear.
Before doing the process cptvkirk suggests above, put your mesh somewhat tight so you can feel resistance as you spin. Going by feel, see if there is a section of spur which is tighter than the rest by rolling the gears back and forth. Find the center point of that tighter section. You'll want to set your gear mesh at that point of the spur gear.
note taken
Good call bro, something i kinda overlooked and had to re highlight to put back in my own bag o' tricks..
since we're there, might be worth while to mark the shaft in line with the tight spot as well, if you swap to another spur, and find a tight spot in same area where shaft was marked, you might have a bent shaft. the "tight spot" he is referring to will typically be barely noticeable until you teach yourself to look for it...if it's dramatic, i'd toss that spur or look closer at shaft.
Good call bro, something i kinda overlooked and had to re highlight to put back in my own bag o' tricks..
since we're there, might be worth while to mark the shaft in line with the tight spot as well, if you swap to another spur, and find a tight spot in same area where shaft was marked, you might have a bent shaft. the "tight spot" he is referring to will typically be barely noticeable until you teach yourself to look for it...if it's dramatic, i'd toss that spur or look closer at shaft.
