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For TMAXX owners that hate the MAXX

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RatzoRC

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RC Driving Style
  1. Racing
Just want to know what you disslike about it, and what you would do to make it a better truck if parts were available.
 
ummm... why would you put this in this forum... we bought the max because we like it. also i like having the customizeable feeling, so i wouldent change anything...
 
The whole skid/bulk assembly. It just doesn't work right. Even when the bulks are aluminum it just isn't designed right..

Four tiny bolts to hold the front end of a 40mph jumping rig together, it just doesn't work, or make sense.

When you add aluminum and hardened screws you end up breaking bolts off inside the expensive bulks.. thats just not right.

It was a damned groundbreaking vehicle, best for it's time.. but it's not designed right for what we do with it.

The other thing..it just goes with the hobby.. 15 minutes running 1/2 hour fixing. The "little" things to fix are just way too many.

Possibly if they didn't have everything under the sun adjustabe it would be more stable. Adjust engine, adjust mixture, adjust camber, adjust spring tension. grrph ride height, body height temp...

The fact the NO one can agree on a good temp to run an engine at should be an indicator lol..

No wonder the Radio Shack golden arrow rocked.. nothing could be adjusted if you broke it, you just bolted on the new peice, and took off.
 
:idea:
i think the suspension could use some better tunning from the stock set up. and get rid of the reverse... PERIOD. o yea and put OS engines in the t-maxx. :idea:

later:idea:
 
Originally posted by RatzoRC
Just want to know what you disslike about it

Its made by traxxas.

j/k
 
I have about 20 complaints about the stock truck, but once I upgraded it with 20 different parts, I have NO complaints.
Mine is 2 years old, and other than one stripped spur gear, the only thing that ever broke is the fuel tank.
The cooling head is the biggest problem on the 2.5. I'ts NOT the carburator. It seems everyone has problems with that engine, and that included me. When I added the ACNCM Monster head, and tuned the carb for it, it's a pleasure. Haven't touched a needle in almost 20 tanks. Runs like lightning at 235.
 
hey lykan i got a suggestion, get the VBS. it is insane. if i had $500 to spend that is what i would buy.

my person perspective on this rig is that they need to take it back to the drawing board. the bulks, skids, shocks, and engine all needed to be redone.

i think the biggest mistake that traxxas made was that they didnt go big block with this new revo. the savage and all the new trucks coming out have the .21 or higher engines and the maxx still has this little POS 2.5. plus to make it .21 u got to spend over $300

bryan
 
I think they didn't go for the .21, because it's a 10th scale truck.
I don't feel that it makes any difference, but i think thats the reason.
I just got a Maxx in a trade, and I'm less than thrilled.
It has lots of mods done to it, but it don't impress me much.
Maybe after I get it going, I will have some fun with it and change my mind.
I'm going to be racing this thing against savages and ae monster gt's.
from what I know, there is only 1 or 2 other Maxxes that race there, and may have the >21 mod's done.
I dont feel like dumping a $1000 bucks into this to make it compatable<<oof spelling...
Just wanted to feel around and see what I should bullet proof.
 
Originally posted by RatzoRC
I just got a Maxx in a trade, and I'm less than thrilled.
It has lots of mods done to it, but it don't impress me much.


I feel ya brother. I feel the same about the micro now that I have it in hand. and not working right.

anyways If I do another Maxx. I wouldnt get them POS SS screw sets. and I would have went with a drace(sp) chassis and not the HCR Ti chassis. the TI chassis should do you fine for racing but I was a Basher on my moto-x Track I have out back.
 
Originally posted by RatzoRC
I think they didn't go for the .21, because it's a 10th scale truck.
I don't feel that it makes any difference, but i think thats the reason.
I just got a Maxx in a trade, and I'm less than thrilled.
It has lots of mods done to it, but it don't impress me much.
Maybe after I get it going, I will have some fun with it and change my mind.
I'm going to be racing this thing against savages and ae monster gt's.
from what I know, there is only 1 or 2 other Maxxes that race there, and may have the &gt;21 mod's done.
I dont feel like dumping a $1000 bucks into this to make it compatable&lt;&lt;oof spelling...
Just wanted to feel around and see what I should bullet proof.

If you spend the money now you will save money later! I have 3 Maxx's all .21's one of them is a UE Supermaxx. I have spent $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ on hop up parts over the years which has been fun but, looking back a waste of money! If I would have just spent the cash on a Supermaxx in the first place I would have saved a ton!
 
The things I upgraded on my Maxx had little to do with HATE, and everything to do with longevity of the ride under my driving style (bash, bash, and more bash with an occasional good landing thrown in for variety).

1. Stock shocks pretty much suck. All plastic construction and weak springs...not sufficient to the task. Go for an all aluminum construction and some beefy springs with middle weight silicone/oil.

2. Spur gear and slipper clutch assembly. I can get along fine with a plastic spur gear, but did not like the slipper clutch assembly. The RRP dual disk slipper set up is a must. I ran with ring steel gears and prefer them over the plastic, but a decently set mesh will make the plastic versus metal gear argument old news.

3. Lighter tires. The stock tires are great in all terrains, but they are kind of clunky when it comes to weight. A pinned tire or something that is lighter weight-wise is a must. I run Maxx Mashers and they work awesome.

4. Stock steering servo. Again, if the servo won't turn the front wheels when the truck is stationary it shouldn't be in there. I run HiTec digital hi torque servos and love them. Anything is better than the stock one as long as the torque rating is better than stock and can turn the wheels while the vehicle is stationary.

5. For strength purposes alone, upgrade the bulkheads, towers, chassis braces, bulkhead braces and put on a center skid plate that is metal. The front and rear skids can remain the stock and do just fine, but if you feel the need to upgrade...go straight to titanium or pick up a set of spring steel skids from RC Solutions.

6. Turnbuckles...the stock turnbuckles and their rod ends are weak and prone to breakage/bendage. I run Lunsford Titanium rods all around with some beefy rod ends. I recommend upgrading the rods to the 1/8 buggy kit that Lunsford sells for the T-Maxx and/or Savage.

7. The last items are up to your preference. A quality fuel filter, air filter and perhaps an engine upgrade if the engine is the stock 2.5. Yours has the Sirio .18, and you may like it...but most people I know end up looking at the .21 conversion in order to get a more powerful engine.

I'm sure there are other things that might be recommended, but that is my list.
 
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lol scott. I know. thats the pain in the ass with this truck.
 
Actually, you can keep the tranny and diff cases the stock plastic...for a little while. :D
 
never again will i buy a maxx. they are awesome trucks, if you are happy with a small mill, in a big truck. you have to admit, the truck was revolutioinary, and still holds its own out there withe the 21 trucks, and stock, its a good truck. its when you start upgradeing in, is when you never get satisfied. and the first mistake i made was getign a new enigne(if i get a bigger engine, ill be faster and more powerful!, NOT) all that did was waste 500$ of mine. the truck isnt that much faster and i had to get all these steel gears to handle the torque and the the fiddlesticking shafts are twisting... you really can't win for losing with this things, and then i get RPM A-arms (sweet! a lifetime warrenty!) wrong again, the arms just flex alot and then i break bulkheads, and bend pins, and bust shock caps... its a horrible circle of doom that should keep anymody from getting a maxx, GET A FREAKING SAVAGE they kick ass right out of the box
 
for the guy who said get a savage, he can take that savage and shuv it up his... I'm done.... so i have driven savages, i dont like them, will never buy one, or drive another for that matter. it is just my opinion. i love how the maxx is so light (if you didnt buy alum everything yet. i feel happy wit my truck, and i like hopping it up. so far i have rpm arms in the rear, alum rear shock tower, new sink head, got the pull start, tuned pipe, motor saver air filter, foc, stock savage tires and wheels (the only thing i like on the savage) and hitec 645, well, i keep at least 2 sets of front and rear bulks in my toolbox, and a gas tank (weak spot bigtime) and yesterday i beat the poop outta it for 7 hours and burned up 3/4 gallon of gas, and never overheated it, and brok one gas tank. well my friend was there wit his savage, and tweaked his chasss plates in a v, broke 3 shocks, lost 2 springs, busted his hitorq servo, and broke like 10 other things... well i kinda like having my truck break the cheapest things, and not the most expensive. (shocks, chasis plates... ect...) well now his truck is sitting in our lhs getting repaired.. i can't wait to laugh at him for the large $ bill!!!
 
i like my t-maxx...but i will havto admit i had to put 1500+ dollars into it before i can drive it as hard and fast as i can my savage..which I've put about 300$ in, and the parts i got for the savage are jsut for more power and better steering. (xtm 24.7, pipe, servo, mp servo saver, diff mod, etc). and even after having replaceded every part for increased durability, NOT for bling factor on the t-maxx...i still dont have that fully confident feeling when i jump it high and dont land right like i do with the savage..and the savage is stock when it comes to chassis/suspension! but this isnt a savage VS t-maxx thread..

from what i have learned in my experiece with the t-maxx in stock form, is that it is built from rather brittle/weak plastic, the tie rods are made from pot metal steel it seems as the stock ones break every time the truck cartwheels..that is if one of the stock plastic rod ends doesn't go first. there are no braces for the suspension control arm pins, putting all the stress on the badly desighnd bulkheads right at the part the pins go thru. the bulks themselves have only two small tabs coming off the chassis about 1/2" to hold them on..jsut not enough contact for a secure hold on a major chassis component. the lower bulkhead is secured to a flimsy plastic "chassis brace" and the plastic skid plate. hey they did throw in a pot metal bulhead cross-member down there though.
the stock shocks will blow out after you get brave with the truck, and seem to get real stiff like the oil inside has solidified, and the caps will break right were the hole for the screw to go thru is.
the body mounts....they cannot handle any roof-style landings whatso-ever...mainly the rear body mounts...the break every time i land on the roof. (comon..everyone does that now and then right)
many people say the driveline is bad..but in my opinon it was desighnd for the trx 2.5...and i did not break any driveline components while running that mill. the xtm 24.7 that is on there now has basically destroyed anything traxxas in the driveline since then though.
the stock gas tank, i had broken two of them before finally going to an ofna 125cc tank..which sits lower being more proteced on top of giving me a more consistant tune from bottem to top.
TRX 2.5....nice mill when it isnt pissed off at you, makes good power and actually did pull the wheels here and there...and topped the maxx out nicely full clamp. but dayum...thats the hardest to keep well tuned mill I've ever owened....RTR or aftermarket bought. adding a GH cooling head helped..but it jsut did not have enough overall torque/dissplacement to do the work of pushing a monster truck around off-road without heating up to scary temps (355 degrees anyone??)
there are a few other things i do not like..but are mainly opinion and did not effect truck in terms of reliabilty/performance that much, like reverse, easy start.
my t-maxx was my first nitro and r/c..i still like the damn thing...and i have to admit its a freakin beast now in the form its in (basically 95% aftermarket)..it gets my attention more than any of the other nitros..wether thats good or bad i wont say...and even though i seemed to complain about adding so much $$$$ jsut so it can be drivin like i drive my basically stock savage without calling for the medic....i dont regret buying/modding it one bit.
 
The one that I still have is great, 99% aftermarket. The few stock parts on it are the plastic diff housings and wheel hexes and they're next on the list and will probably have to be replaced this summer.
The most interesting part about it is that it doesn't really resemble a T Maxx.

In stock form the T Maxx would not be 1st on my list.
 
well, last night I changed just about every screw, with allen head
black screws.
The truck, when I got it, had striped screws, and a few cuts in the chassis from notching screws with a dremmel, so that they can be removed.
Also I have to easy out a couple of screws out, because the heads are broken off.
After that, I have to put in a steel spur gear and check if the FOC Is steel or plastic.
I bought the Wasp .21 sb, that i will put in after the spur and FOC are done.
I have aluminum bulkheads and shock towers, with a titanium chassis plates, and a titanium chassis.
I put the Hi tech mg servo to throttle, and put an airtronics 957 hsmg servo for steering.
Also just added the proline steering kit, aluminum servo mounts on both servos.
this is just the begining I'm sure
 
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