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First revo run, questions

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Pliko

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Just my first impression and questions.

1) Are the brakes supposed to be so weak? It seems like it takes forever to slow down.

2) Idle screw, no matter which way i turned it i couldnt stop it from moving forward at an idle on flat pavement, is this right?

3) When doing the 3 second to full throttle pull, and then 2 second hold, it was shifting into 2nd at about the 2 second mark, at about 20mph or so? I dont think I am too lean, i have a nice blue plume.

4) Replacement for after run oil for now? I didnt think to order some when I got this bad boy.

5) Sometimes when i was doing the 1/4 pull it wouldnt move, or would barely move, sometimes even at 1/2 pull it doesn't take off, it just kinda growls and starts to stall, until it gets moving then it buzzes.


Thanks guys!
 
For your brakes you can tighten them up the adjustment is on the throttle linkage. as for the idle pull off your air filter and watch down the carb it will move if I'm remembering right turn to the right to open it left to close it you want it at about 1mm. If you didnt mess with the neddles it shouldnt shift to second if it did it should have bogged down but if i remember right it shouldnt hurt it? and alot of guys on here say wd 40 works for after run but i dont use anything. i thought after run was for long storage but i could be wrong but i have 3 1/2 gallons though mine and it all still looks new. the buzzing could be the bell clutch the stock shoes arent the greatest i would upgrade asap of it could be the slipper slipping mine new was way loose try tightening it. hope this helps.
 
You've got the low needle too lean and possibly the high needle as well.

Look online and get a mental picture of what the carb gap should be, then next time you run it make sure it warms up. Temperature is very important for break-in and tuning. Once it hits at least 200 degrees bring it in and see if richening the low needle helps it idle down. If it's cool outside you'll need to partially cover the engine head so it can warm up.
 
If the needles were too lean would I get liquid all over my hand when i put it behind the exhaust? I noticed it spitting some liquid and leaned it a little bit but its still pretty wet.

Scary high pitch at full throttle.
 
Last edited:
Throttle/brake whatever it's pretty straight forward stuff. There should always be a little spit coming out of the pipe.
I would suggest looking in the manual for linkage adjustments, sounds like you also have the high needle set lean.
One more thing to check is the clutch, roll the truck backwords with the engine off, does it roll freely, or is there some binding?

Got a video?
 
Will bug my wife into taking a video tonight, with sound. Thanks for all the tips
 
sorry mud i called it the throttle linkage because its hooked to the throttle servo so i thought it would be the easyest way to point it out to him
 
Getting a slow take off and spitting a lot of fuel while idling means you need to start leaning the LOW speed needle.
That needle and the idle adjustment work together.
 
Revo Repair question

Ok about 40% of a gallon in and i already need to do a repair :P

I started bashing in my back yard after some street and short grass runs. i build a small ramp, was trying to jump it and get down the brake/gas to land right, and ended up switching up to full backflips. Cake, fun, and neat as heck.


Well after a major cartwheel when my friend put the ramp to like 70 degrees, I noticed a slightly different engine noise. Shut it down immediately took the top off (missing 2 pins, heh, heh, heh), and noticed....

The blue foam that is zip tied between the muffler and the pipe was cracked severely. Also the muffler was loose, normally attached by a pin but it was free hanging. Well I swung that pin back around and slid it through the hole on the tab of the muffler, but the foam... should i just electrical tape it? or get something else. Does the muffler just free-hang on that pin or is there a way to attach it more securely?

my buddy convinced me to leave gas in the engine rather than run it dry with the muffler disconnected like that, was he right?

Thanks in advance.

---------- Post added at 11:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:52 PM ----------

Also. I see tons of videos where people with the 3.3 are popping wheelies on pavement. Even if i full throttle it out the gate on pavement i dont get any wheelie, just a nice fast acceleration, is this indicative of a bad tune, or did they hop up some stuff.

Video is incoming.
 
The "foam" thing is actually silicone,connects the header to pipe. You should replace it ASAP, being cracked can effect tune by leaking off back pressure which is needed to pump fuel from the tank to the carb. Also the back pressure pulses,changes to the pulse changes how the engine runs. Shutting it off was good,leaving gas in for a short time is not a problem.
 
How should I replace it? Order part online and just be patient for it?


Also here is video, any feedback on tune ish elpfull

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cg0hGgQEuiI"]YouTube - 00005[/ame]
 
I had the same promblem with my muffler i went to walmart and got that mightie fix it its a silacone wrap that bonds to itself it works perfect for that it was on tv it works real good you can use it for mufflers car hose's its a neat product.
 
Pliko said:
Also the muffler was loose, normally attached by a pin but it was free hanging. Well I swung that pin back around and slid it through the hole on the tab of the muffler, but the foam... should i just electrical tape it? or get something else. Does the muffler just free-hang on that pin or is there a way to attach it more securely?
Click to expand...

Hello, I'm completely new here, but can hopefully offer you some advice regarding the bit of your post thats been slightly overlooked.

It shouldn't just hang free on there, as when you do any bashing or jumping its just going to put strain on the silicone sleeve and likely split it again (probably why it has happened in the first place).
There should be a little grub screw which goes through the hole in the exhaust pipe and holds it tight onto the pin (See pic below).



Make sure this is still there. If it is make sure you apply some threadlock to it and tighten it up well.

If its come completely out then your best off ordering some new ones when you order the replacement sleeve.

The part number of replacement grub screws is TRX-4897.
The one for the new silicone sleeve is TRX-5245.

can't really recommend an online parts supplier as I'm from the UK, so maybe someone else here can, but the bits you need will only be a couple of dollars each.
 
You can order them from towerhobbies.com, horizonhobby.com or various others. liquidrc.com has $1 shipping, but they tend to take a while.

Something you may want to look into getting is the spring mounted header vs the bolted on header that hard mounts to the engine. The spring mounted header allows for some extra flex in the exhaust system. With the hard mount header (stock), it forces the silicone coupler to take all the abuse. Eventually, the header itself will crack and then your stuck buying one anyway.

When I was running a rear exhaust revo, the spring mount header was the only way to go. Also, instead of the traxxas coupler, I use nylon reenforced silicone tubing. I have no idea where to buy it though. My father in law worked for a hose company and grabbed me a 6 foot piece quite a few years ago... been using it on all my rigs ever since.

This is the spring mounted header: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUTG4&P=7
Requires a spring, teflon washer and thicker o-ring as well:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUTF5&P=M

Save money now and get that if your getting a new coupler, get two. ;)
Coupler: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFU8&P=M

I had better luck with the black one above than I did the blue one below:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDU0&P=M

The black one seemed to hold up longer.

This is the "bolt on" header you should avoid:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGA3&P=7
 
Ebay is the cheapest way to go they have ever thing for the Revo cheap!
 
MudWild680 said:
Pliko, You didnt happen to read any of your Traxxas manual did you?
Click to expand...

Yeah I read the first half then missplaced it, I value real-experience opinions as well as standard data on a sheet, sorry if I'm asking stupid questions but I do appreciate the time anyone takes to respond to me.

I found an online copy of the manual and read up on some stuff that I obviously missed and asked questions about, thanks :)
 

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