First day with my first Nitro, rode her hard and put her away...

[Narzick]

... very well cleaned and taken care of, of course

I got the Traxxas Nitro Rustler with the TRX 2.5, and I love it so far.

There was two issues I found with it though. One of them being when I pull the throttle if I pull it all the way in it closes the throttle like I'm not pulling it at all, fully closed. Has anyone else experienced this and is there a way to fix it, or do I just have to remember it's point where it lets go?

The second issue I had with it is that everyone I talked to suggested the OS#8 glow plug for it comma but when I was done breaking it in today and putting it away for the night I went to change out the glow plug just to find out that the head on the glow plug is too big for the glow plug wire. Is there a way to fix that since I had ordered 4 of those clothes and would hate to see them go to waste?

I'm not sure if these are noob questions or not, but I appreciate any help that you guys can give to me since I'm just getting into the hobby.

Thank you!

P.s. I didn't ride her hard at all. Took my time properly breaking it in, just thought it'd make a good title

 

[Certified Mike]

If you're using the traxxas radii, you can set the throttle servo endpoint. There are instructions on how to do this in the manual for your car. My traxxas is a much older radio than yours so I can't tell you exactly how to do it but it's in your manual for sure.
I'm not really sure what problem you're experiencing with the plug and the glowplug. Maybe if you could post a pic or explain a little more I could help you with that too.

I read your other post, I understand now... I would suggest maybe taking a dremel to the tip to try to reshape the glowplug tip. Its either that or find a plug that will work (thinking a hobby shop or even radio shack, fryes? Electronic supply) and solder that in place of the traxxas plug.
The other option would be to leave that traxxas plug off entirely and buy a separate glowplug igniter to use on those plugs. So you would be using your wand with the ez-start and the separate igniter together to start your rig. Igniters are cheap enough and not a bad thing to have around anyways.

 

[SchrodeMode]

I would recommend going with the stand alone igniter, the EZ-start wand is known to stop heating the plug. Until then though, you can try to stretch the connector until it fits.

 

[ninnon]

What do you mean about the throttle closing when you accelerate? Do you mean it closes when you brake?

 

[SchrodeMode]

What do you mean about the throttle closing when you accelerate? Do you mean it closes when you brake?

I read it as the throttle closes if he goes full throttle.

What batteries are you using? It could be weak batteries causing it to go into failsafe.

 

[Narzick]

I read it as the throttle closes if he goes full throttle.

What batteries are you using? It could be weak batteries causing it to go into failsafe.

Sorry for the late reply, but is exactly the issue.

When I go full throttle it puts the pin on the carb from wide open to fully closed like I'd let off the trigger completely even though its full throttle.

I'm using cheap batteries, so that could be the issue. I'll try some good batteries and get back to you guys!

 

[hamz9561]

Sorry for the late reply, but is exactly the issue.

When I go full throttle it puts the pin on the carb from wide open to fully closed like I'd let off the trigger completely even though its full throttle.

I'm using cheap batteries, so that could be the issue. I'll try some good batteries and get back to you guys!

Try using a good rechargeable hump-pack (6v 5-cell) that's the best suggestion I can offer.

 

[SchrodeMode]

I'm using cheap batteries, so that could be the issue. I'll try some good batteries and get back to you guys!

I would try that before you start messing with the end points.

Like @hamz9561 said, look into a rechargeable hump pack. Don't go with 4x rechargeable AAs in the stock setup though. You won't have the full voltage which will cause your servos to be slower and weaker. Rechargeable batteries are 1.2v and normal ones are 1.5v, 4x1.5=6v 4x1.2=4.8v. The hump pack will have 5 batteries in it so it be the recommended 6v.

 

[Narzick]

Sorry for the SUPER late response guys. Havent been able to mess with my car much due to life stuff.

I ran it with the 4x 1.5v energizer industrial batteries in the 4 battery cell it has and 4 of the same batteries in the remote itself. Still have the issue of it closing throttle when I pull the trigger all the way down.

Any other suggestions?

 

[ninnon]

Sorry for the SUPER late response guys. Havent been able to mess with my car much due to life stuff.

I ran it with the 4x 1.5v energizer industrial batteries in the 4 battery cell it has and 4 of the same batteries in the remote itself. Still have the issue of it closing throttle when I pull the trigger all the way down.

Any other suggestions?

Would you be able to record and show us a video?

 

[hamz9561]

Sorry for the SUPER late response guys. Havent been able to mess with my car much due to life stuff.

I ran it with the 4x 1.5v energizer industrial batteries in the 4 battery cell it has and 4 of the same batteries in the remote itself. Still have the issue of it closing throttle when I pull the trigger all the way down.

Any other suggestions?

Sometimes even alkaline batteries are low even out of an unopened package. Try a good 5-cell rechargeable hump-type pack in place of the alkalines in the rig. This usually helps with the servo problems like you've described.

 

[Certified Mike]

I agree that you need to have good power to both the transmitter and receiver prior to doing any diagnosis! Whatever is going on, it won't get fixed until the basics are 100% covered. The rechargable cell is the way to go imo as well.

 

[Prophet216]

Never use trim on radio to set stop points. Set your idle screw higher, Set it so it keeps running when u keep bumping the throttle to like 10 percent very quickly, if idle is to low it will load up and stall, then tune your hi end so it smokes nice and RPMs sound nice. Then try to tune your low speed to where it takes about 3-5 seconds to stall when your fuel line pinched. Pay attention to how responsive your low end is, should be chrisp and fast responding, and the engine should load up after about 8-12 seconds at idle and revs drop a lil and get a little quieter. Once you get that u can slowly reduce idle speed and keep doing the rapid 10-15 % throttle blips to see if your idle keeps it running or if it is loading up to much and stalling. Easiest way I can tell you to tune that engine.

Um check your linkage and your springs make sure nothing is bent or broken. Make sure your springs are there and everything is tight. Also make sure your on 50/50, 70/30 is more for electric. Can u male a YouTube video and post it. That will help us help you