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First 10 things to upgrade on Maxx

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X_Gamer7

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I have one of the older T-Maxx's with the newer Widemaxx A-Arms, Turnbuckles, RPM front/rear bumpers, Wasp .18 slide carb, Traxxas .15 to 2.5 conversion kit, and a Dynamite Terra Crusher inline exhaust system. What are the next 10 things that I should upgrade (make stronger, look better, faster, more durable, etc). I was thinking aluminum bulkheads and a better steering servo. What do you guys think?

-X_Gamer7
 
Aluminum bulks.
Spring steel skids from RC solutions. (major major help)
RPM shock tower for the front.
Aluminum shock tower rear (ask some for suggestions)
CVD instead of weak plastic axles.
Steering servo.
Ahhg! Proline ballbearing steering kit (bellcranks)
Tires and wheels with less weight and rotating mass.
Gotta have a recharrgable 5 cell hump pack (mine fits in battery box)
Ofna fuel tank mod for consistant temps.
 
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get a fuel filter if u dont already have one. upgrade ur air filter to like a motor saver. for a steering servo i recomend the hi-tech 645 ball bearing, metal gear high torque servo. for bulkheads i recommend, from what i heard the GH 7075 bulkheads or the RC Solutions bulkheads i run Integy bulkheads and they work great, for the price.

later
 
Lykan has this list that I built my truck with! That's weird.

Anyway, what lykan has is the list that will get you closer to bombproof. The al bulks are the first thing I would go for.

Just start at the top and go down.

Aluminum bulks.
Spring steel skids from RC solutions.
RPM shock tower for the front.
Aluminum shock tower rear

These parts will save you more than they cost in the long run.

As for the steering kit and servo's... they are nice to have, but slow steering is still a drivable truck. If any of the above parts fail, it's not drivable without replacing it.

RPM arms are also a good thing to start with. I see that you have wide-maxx arms, but I'm not sure who's those are. I know proline makes a set, stock 2.5 and of course RPM. RPM is the best around.
 
i have the stock 2.5 a arms. I'll keep them till they break. Are the RPMs cheaper than the Prolines?
 
Not sure, but I would have to think they are stronger and less likely to break.

I think they are $12 a corner for the 2.5 maxx. Which would be $48 for the whole truck.
 
1. Failsafe
2. Temp gun
3. TRS (Throttle Return Spring)
4. MS air filter
5. RPM everything
6. RRP Double Disk Slipper W/Plastic spur
7. FOC
8. Traxxas BB shocks
9. Stiffer springs
10. Glow starter (ditch the blue wire)

Personally, I stay away from aluminum parts, they weigh too much and while they don't break, they will bend and screws will get stripped inside them.
 
Originally posted by TT120
1. Failsafe
2. Temp gun
3. TRS (Throttle Return Spring)
4. MS air filter
5. RPM everything
6. RRP Double Disk Slipper W/Plastic spur
7. FOC
8. Traxxas BB shocks
9. Stiffer springs
10. Glow starter (ditch the blue wire)

Personally, I stay away from aluminum parts, they weigh too much and while they don't break, they will bend and screws will get stripped inside them.


umm actually aluminum parts dont weigh that much more then the stock plastic parts. in ur truck ur suppose to have "weak points." Also the high quality aluminum parts wont bend.

I have Integy aluminum bulks, RPM a-arms, titanium hinge pins; weak point a-arms. i have yet to bend analuminum parts, or strip a screw in an aluminum part.

IMHO,
later
 
I forgot to mention that I have a RRP slipper clutch steel spur gear. and i have a Dynamite fuel filter....for right now i'm lookin 4 the cheap way out. So i'll prbably buy aluminum skid plates, but does anyone know if those RPM bulkhead protectors work? Or if they will work until I get enough money for the aluminum ones? I'm probably going to get some new trinity hard springs for my maxx soon. As soon as I get some replacement parts for my hitec servo (140oz/in torque), I will use that for my steering servo. I did coat all my servos in that plasti-dip, so those should be ok for now.

thanx,
l8r
 
I wouldn't buy aluminum skids. The rc-solutions spring steel skids are so much better for bashing. The aluminum bends and doesn't bend back. The spring steel ones do, and they are relativly cheap. I think they are $19 for a front and $19 for a rear.

Also, if you go titanium, they don't flex hardly at all which will rip the screws of of almost anything they are bolted to, plus they are more expensive.

Just my .02

I have stripped screws in my bulkheads. Only when I had RPM protective skids. On a hard front end landing, the skid acts as a shovel. Over time it strains the bolts that are holding it on. I had an insane wreck where I hit the lip of a piece of concrete. The only thing that caught was the RPM skid. It peeled it off like a crowbar and ripped all the threads out of the front bulkhead. Needless to say, I don't run rpm skids anymore. If I hadn't had them on, it would have glanced off the piece of concrete. Maybe made a dent, but it more than likely wouldn't have caused the damage it did.
 
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1. fuel filter, air filter, and failsafe. these are just preventitive items everyone should have to make their nitro truck last.

2. rechargable batterys. AA's are a pain. get some thing reusable that provides more power to start with.

3. high torque servo and proline steering kit. the stock one blows, this setup puts you in control of what ur driving.

4. A-arms, RPM is the only way to go, get them on all corners top and bottom.

5. shocks. stock shocks blow, get some bigbores and put r/c raven dual rates on them, then u got performance. or maybe those new "powerstroke" shocks from proline will dominate...

6. aluminum bulkheads. the front bulks are the main priority, so get some nice ones.

7. exhaust pipe. traxxas plastic--no good, get a cvec.

8. wheels/tires... sort of a person all preference, but id say to get he offset rims.

9. RPM shock towers/body mounts

10. a good allen head screw kit.
 
1. The single most important item.....full roll cage..my opinion. Save your body and parts beneath it.
2. Front aluminum bulks and TI hinge pins. Rear bulks rarely get damaged.
3. Failsafe
4. Onboard temp gage (gives you max run temp, not final. Temp is critical for motor life.
5. Big bore aluminum shocks. You'll get tired blowing off your plastic caps.
6. Fuel filter.
7. High torque steering servo (130 oz/in).
8. Aluminum bumpers (I must have broken 5 or 6 sets of stock units).
9. Rechargable battery pack
10. Aluminum exhaust. (Stock unit melts internally at 260 F + (Oh well.....it happens to the best of us)

Check out www.misbehavin-rc.com for lots of good tips and recommendations.

Bass_Master1
 
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