Few bits of advice needed

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OverDrive

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I'm new to nitro and love it! Used to race electric about 8 years ago. Just got a Hyper PBS about a month ago, nowhere to race but ace BMX track for flying/bashing just around the corner.
Got a few questions now though.
1. Why do the front drive shafts pop out of the joints after hard landing. Any way to stop this?
2. Engine revs high when it comes to a stand still then slows to a normal idle. Any advice?
3. Whats the best way to remove motor mount screw when the head is slipping.
Thanks in advance.
 
The only way to keep the drive shafts from poping out is to tighten the palls from the pbs.

The engine sounds like you have the idle set correct it idles high then drops that is perfect.

Take a dremmel to the head of the screw to make a slot for a flat headed screw.
 
Ditto, ditto, ditto, couldn't have said it better myself.

Definitely tighten your balls on the PBS 1-2 mm. It may look like the bones are in correctly, but one hard landing or crash can pop them out if the track is set too wide..

-Jon
 
reason for popping out is cuz the arms do flex a little.. and that will make it move that much more.. and they pop out.. so.. like he said.. screw in the pillow balls on each side.. be sure to screw the same amount each.. as to not upset the setup too much..

ditto on the rest..
 
OverDrive said:
.
1. Why do the front drive shafts pop out of the joints after hard landing. Any way to stop this?
2. Engine revs high when it comes to a stand still then slows to a normal idle. Any advice?
3. Whats the best way to remove motor mount screw when the head is slipping.
Thanks in advance.

I have a little different take on this, but take it as a grain of salt because there are great answers here.

1. Use o-rings (P4 I think) in the inner and outter drive cups to take out the play, also I would suggest CVD's as they would not pop out like dog bones.

2. Like people said that is normal, you might be a tad rich on the bottom but I would leave it if performance is good, temps are in a good range, and it it stays running (doesn't flame out).

3. I got confused with this one, is your engine moving and messing up the gear mesh between the clucthbell and main diff gear? Or is your head lose on your engine and you want to remove it for maintennace? Not really sure what is happening there care to expand?
 
sorry it wasn't very clear. I meant the head of the screw, the hex has stripped and now it doesn't undo. I think the dremell trick is going to be best. Havn't got one though.
The reason I need to take the engine out is coz the clutch is playing up.
When I bump the car the wheels turn. Hope the clutch isn't melted?
 
Another trick for a stripping hex is to wrap the end of the wrench in that light grocery bag plastic material. One or two layers might give you the bite you need to break it loose. A dab of JB Weld from a toothpick into the head of the screw is another method. Set the L-wrench into it and let it cure.

I've renewed the bite on hex wrenches by simply grinding 1/16" off the end of the wrench. (With a Dremel, of course.)

If you stay in this hobby ya gotta get a Dremel. They're indispensable.
 
Brack himself said:
If you stay in this hobby ya gotta get a Dremel. They're indispensable.

i second that.
 
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