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Build Thread FastEddys XB8 Build

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Imbroken,
I'm impressed with the fit of everything so far. No hangups or rough spots in the diff. They are smoother than my broken in Storm diffs. I did place 1 super thin shim in all 3 diffs as mentioned above. In reality they didn't need it but it made me feel better.

Your camera is just fine! Ill post a shot of my light stage setup, It does all the work. All I do is press the button.
 
looking good so far eddy. glad to hear you'll be joining the Xray/OS camp as well :thumbup: may i recommend a 086 or 2050 pipe for that motor. from what the guys on the Sgrid are telling me that combo is the cat's pajamas.
 
Installing the rear A-Arms in itself is easy. Trying to get the setup procedures the way I want them still has me a bit confused. Ill explain this as it comes up.

First thing is to screw on the front lower suspension holder. Use the two long screws.

x22.jpg


The next step is to decide what eccentric bushing to use. Others have suggested to use 3 degrees of rear toe-in. To accomplish this I installed the #0 bushing, one on each side.

x23.jpg


Next slide the hinge pin into the lower A-Arm and forward into the bushing.
I'm impressed with the beefy arms and pins.

x24.jpg


Here is where I'm getting a bit confused on the setup. Eccentric bushings need to be installed into the front suspension holder. These are to adjust the rear squat. I wanted to set the anti-squat to 1 degree. To do this would call for a #0 bushing. Here is the issue I'm confused about. So far the kit only included 2 #0 bushings that I used for the toe. I'm hoping that there are more un-used #0 bushings in the kit. If someone can tell me I'm doing something wrong or if there are more bushings that would be great.

I installed #1 bushings facing up to give me an anti squat of 2 degrees. I will change it later once I find more bushings or correct any errors I have made.

x25.jpg


Slide the suspension holder over the hinge pins and use the 2 short screws to secure it into place.

Use the fat set screws (Down Stop screws) in the provided holes in the A-Arms close to the hinge pins. The setup calls for 3mm of the screw to stick out the bottom. We got lucky here. 3mm of the screw will be sticking out the bottom when the top of the screw is exactly flush with the top of the A-Arm.

x26.jpg


Once everything is put together check to make sure that nothing binds up. It should all move freely.


_______________________________________________________

Several people have asked how I get good looking picks.
I wrote an article a while back and will place the link here.
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19423&highlight=Studio
I'm using a Canon Digital Rebel with a 28-200 72mm lens.

Here are a few pics of my home made studio. Everything minus the camera and tripod costs well under $50.00 and is available at home depot.

studio1.jpg


studio2.jpg
 
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I gotta find that article again. I really wanna take some nice digital pics of my cars when their lids are still new. Especially when I take so much time to work on them.

BTW, nice ultrasonic machine. I didn't realize how small it was. I can probably stick that entire unit in our Branson cleaner.
 
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eddy, since your changing the setup from the one included in the manual (as recommended) look in the last bag of parts you have. you will find spare parts and extra tuning items like your bushings you need also in .5 increments for finer adjustment, heavier clutch springs, firmer shock springs, the 0*-2* rear toe block, etc.
 
The More I Read About This Build, The More I Want A Buggy...
 
FastEddy, How much did you spend on this?? I am tallying up a christmas list, the XRAY XB8, RB WS7 II, Jammin J2? Pipe, and i still gotta find a good set of great servos. I saw this kit on ebay for 650.00. good god thats alot lol. let me know, and is this to hard for a begineer to kits, i got common sense though. i just saw somethings in the pics that seemed a little hard. lmk is it hard for me to build it. and what set up i should get, I'm gonna sell my buggy and some other things to help buy it. later
 
Corrado,
I knew you would have the answer. :)
Everything that I read raved about the tuning options. It was hard for me to believe they would short the kit on bushings and shims.
I got your PM and and will most likely take you up on your offer for help in the build. Members like you prove that RCNT is a great community.

Thanks,
-Ed
 
Diver6127 said:
I gotta find that article again. I really wanna take some nice digital pics of my cars when their lids are still new. Especially when I take so much time to work on them.

BTW, nice ultrasonic machine. I didn't realize how small it was. I can probably stick that entire unit in our Branson cleaner.

I posted the link above.

The cleaner is 6x6x6. Large enough to fit 99% of all the parts I need to clean. I did a lot of research on cleaners. There is $49.99 units for home jewelry use than you make the jump to an industrial unit. In the industrial units you have small and expensive then larger and even more expensive. For my needs this seemed to be a good choice. So far it seems to work well. I'm still experimenting with different chemicals for different cleaning needs.
 
no problem eddy, i start work at 5pm today so any call ill answer before that. after that leave a message and a time after which i shouldnt call.
 
great pics. very well put together build project nice job Eddy!! shop looks like bob villas!!
 
Nice work space you got there eddy! Mine didn't arrive today but I did get a tracking number so I guess it's a little closer to getting here. keep the build pics coming and update us on any problems you incounter.
 
The next step is to install the sway bar.
Installing the threaded rod into the ball end is easy. One side of the threaded rod is fitted for a hex wrench. I followed the directions and screwed it in with 6mm or so exposed.
x27.jpg


I love having the proper tools
x29.jpg


Screw the second half on to the exposed rod just until they touch.
Make sure you use the proper ends. Repeat this process for the other side.

x28.jpg


Use the single screw to mount the sway bar standoffs onto the A-Arms. One on each side Check for binding.

x30.jpg


Hold the sway bar in the proper position centered evenly and pressed into the grove on the back of the bulkhead. Place one end of the bar into the ball end of the stand off. align the end of the bar with the ball end and tighten with a set screw. Use lock-tight on the set screw. Do the same on the other side. Once the sway bar is completely installed (Later) look to see that the ball ends are aligned with the bar. Use a pair of pliers to move the top ball end to be square with the bar as pictured below.

x31.jpg


Holding the sway bar in place install the holding tabs to the rear bulkhead using the provided screws. Don't over tighten.

Once the tabs are in place and secured install the set screws into the remaining hole. The purpose of the set screws is to adjust the amount of play between the bulk and the holding tab depending on the size of bar you are using. Tighten the screw down just until it touches the bar and back it off 1/16th of a turn. There should be no restriction in movement of the sway bar. Check everything to make sure it moves freely. Double check the ball ends again and make sure they are square with the bar.

x32.jpg
 
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eddy what brand of calipers? the plastic molding looks like mititoyo, but the button colors arent right for it.
 
hmm, ill have to take a picture of mine when i get home. a $130 0-12" set of mitutoyo's. you will be surprised and the similarities. i know i am.
 
I love tools almost as much as women., All of them are good for something. Just like women,the ones you use the most you need to pay more for. Theres no substitution for a professional model. :whistle:
 
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