I have a NTC3 RTR. I just got done with the engine break in process. I'm on my 6th tank. Every time I go full throttle the engine dies. If it doesn't die at full throttle, then it will die when I release it quickly. Seems that this will happen when the engine gets hot. The temp is around 200-230.
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engine keeps stalling out....HELP!
- Thread starter GDOMe
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i have the exact same problem as u do with my fusion , i took it to the shop for the guy to tune and have just now took it out like two days later and it stalls on full throttle
which screw do we adjust?? is it the high speed one?? just want to make sure
which screw do we adjust?? is it the high speed one?? just want to make sure
Domination
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if it doe it when your giving it gas then lean out the HSN if it does it when youlet go of the throttle leanout the LSN
If it does it immediatly when you let off the throttle or when your running at high rpms, your probably running lean on the high side.
Also, if when you let off the throttle it tends to stick with the high rpm's for a second, then drop down to idle, your lean on the high.
If you pinch the fuel line while it's idling about 2 inches from the carb, it should start to stall around 3-5 seconds. If it's more than this, it's to rich on the low, if it's less, it's to lean on the low.
Also, on the low, if you let it sit and idle for a 30 seconds to a minute, then peg the throttle and it blubs on you, then opens up, your to rich on the bottom.
If this continues after checking the above, replace your fuel lines and seal the carb neck where it goes into the block with high temp sensor safe silicone.
Also, if when you let off the throttle it tends to stick with the high rpm's for a second, then drop down to idle, your lean on the high.
If you pinch the fuel line while it's idling about 2 inches from the carb, it should start to stall around 3-5 seconds. If it's more than this, it's to rich on the low, if it's less, it's to lean on the low.
Also, on the low, if you let it sit and idle for a 30 seconds to a minute, then peg the throttle and it blubs on you, then opens up, your to rich on the bottom.
If this continues after checking the above, replace your fuel lines and seal the carb neck where it goes into the block with high temp sensor safe silicone.
nitrotruckn
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Make sure........
idle screw is set correctly as well........around 1-2 mm gap depending on the engine and tuneup.:thumbup:
idle screw is set correctly as well........around 1-2 mm gap depending on the engine and tuneup.:thumbup:
ok guys , just took her out again , and there was no need for a tune , it was pulling well and not stalling when (on or off) carn't remember lol, full throttle
so its all good , why did it do this the other night , it was much colder! would the temp drop of knocked it out of tune slightly?
the only one problem was as the car was doing a few doughnuts the rear right tire just shot up in to the air haha
seriousiuly fast car that is !!!! i love it
so its all good , why did it do this the other night , it was much colder! would the temp drop of knocked it out of tune slightly?
the only one problem was as the car was doing a few doughnuts the rear right tire just shot up in to the air haha
seriousiuly fast car that is !!!! i love it
Temperature plays a big part in nitro tuning. You get large fluctuations of engine temp and rich/lean settings.
I notice it a lot when the temps drop below 40degrees. Personally, i'm going to probably not drive it anymore when it's below 35-40 outside. It just isn't worth the risk of burning up an engine and breaking parts to me.
You can tune to handle colder temps, but it's difficult to get the engine up to 200 degrees without going to lean. But it's hard to tell your to lean when it's cold out. When an engine is running less the 200, your not getting it warm enough to run correctly. You get a prematurely worn piston/sleeve.
I notice it a lot when the temps drop below 40degrees. Personally, i'm going to probably not drive it anymore when it's below 35-40 outside. It just isn't worth the risk of burning up an engine and breaking parts to me.
You can tune to handle colder temps, but it's difficult to get the engine up to 200 degrees without going to lean. But it's hard to tell your to lean when it's cold out. When an engine is running less the 200, your not getting it warm enough to run correctly. You get a prematurely worn piston/sleeve.
Hey, i'm not telling you what to do. I'm just telling you what i do. I've downloaded tons of winter running movies, but i don't know the temps they are running. Just because there's snow on the ground doesn't mean it's 10 degrees out. I just know when i try to run when it's below freezing (32 degrees) i have a hard time getting it to run right.
This is on a OS 21 RG. I remember last year, when i didn't have the maxx, i ran my losi xxx-nt in the snow and didn't have near the tuning issues i have with the 21. I'm running an OS 15 cv-r(x) in the nt. Could just be due to the fact that it's smaller, less surface area to cool as fast.
Don't know for sure. But like i said, this is my way, not everyones.
This is on a OS 21 RG. I remember last year, when i didn't have the maxx, i ran my losi xxx-nt in the snow and didn't have near the tuning issues i have with the 21. I'm running an OS 15 cv-r(x) in the nt. Could just be due to the fact that it's smaller, less surface area to cool as fast.
Don't know for sure. But like i said, this is my way, not everyones.
Domination
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just gotta tune it right last week i was runnin my maxx no problem in 5 degree weather
I can get it to run and run well. I just don't like to see the temps running below 200.
Like i said, my way, not everyones or anyone elses way.
Like i said, my way, not everyones or anyone elses way.
