engine gets hot

[RobH]

The "Torq16" in my Maximum ST seems to run from 280 to 300 degrees no matter where the needles are set. The guy at my lhs mentioned that this engine has the tendancy to do so.

How can I check for the air leaks Christian mentioned in another thread (where the engine runs hot even with rich settings)?

Also, would putting a better head on the engine help? I also read on rccaraction that a tuned pipe can cool the engine. How much of a difference does a pipe make in engine temp?

I know you guys don't run duratrax but I'm sure someone has had a problem like this. Any ideas how to cool it down?

PS that temp gun is a must get for those that don't have one. Thanks to guys that convinced me to get one.

-rob

 

[mjime714]

Does your car run normally or does it rev up at idol? Is there a lot of smoke coming out of the pipe?

I just got a pipe with a larger header and the car runs great, but I cannot say that it runs cooler. The new pipe allows the engine to rev up to top faster, and because does this, I tend to be running on higher rpms longer making the engine hotter.

A larger head will help to dissipate the heat better and more efficiently.

 

[FLATTOP]

Rob, putting a bigger head would help but the drawbacks of a bigger head are.....higher center of gravity and some aftermarket heads can actually cool too much.

Some people don't understand that an engine running too cool is just as bad as running too hot.

As for airleaks, the common places are the engine backplate, carb base and HSN assembly. before you break out the sealant, have you checked your fuel tank, fuel lines? did you make sure your head bolts are tight and the gloplug is tight?

As far as checking for an airleak, with the engine running at idle, get some motor cleaner or brake cleaner, or even some Windex and spray around the problem areas, if the engine stalls, congratulations, you just found your air leak.

 

[mjime714]

Originally posted by FLATTOP
Rob, putting a bigger head would help but the drawbacks of a bigger head are.....higher center of gravity and some aftermarket heads can actually cool too much.

Some people don't understand that an engine running too cool is just as bad as running too hot.

Question that I have and never really gotten a straight answer from my LHS or the yokomo board..

If the head cools the engine, does that really allow you to lean out more to compensate? I mean, temp is really just a means to get into the ballpark of a good tune, when in reality the perfect tune is the right amout of fuel for the right amount of air. An efficient head will mislead you into leaning out too much and vise versa for a small head. Am I correct?

 

[RobH]

FLATTOP, those are some good tips for checking for airleaks -- definate keepers.

The car doesn't rev at idle. There is plenty of smoke coming out the exhaust. If the carb was too lean, I could understand the heat. The hsn and lsn, however, are very rich (almost break-in rich)

I just had a big battle with my gas tank. I overhauled the whole thing. I replaced all the fuel lines and tested the tank for leaks. I put the tank in water and applied pressure to the tank, holding one gas line closed. No air leaks. (a suggestion I read from NCNitro) The overheating was there before and after the gas tank thing.

I donno is 280-300 that hot? I was told to try to keep it around 240 is all.

I've been trying to figure out if I can put an aftermarket head on this thing but I'm having a hardtime trying to figure out what would fit. Is there a standard? I'm sure engine size changes the size of the head and .16 is a weird size it seems.

-rob

 

[RaCinJason399]

I Had the same problem with the torque 12.. It ran super hot.. so i bought a tune pipe... it cooled it down and mccoy mc59 or os a3 plugs will cooled it down. Do you have that standard exaust thing on it?

 

[RobH]

yeah, I have that thing that looks like a soda can on the end of it. I didn't know glow glug choice would matter. A tuned pipe seems to be where I'm headed with this. I saw the standard pipe they ship with the pro version:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXVG89&P=V

I was also reading this webpage where the guy said he put one of these on:

an associated pipe with a rc10 header

i donno what that means. Are the pipes somewhat universal?

Also I was thinking about getting that yank eliminator. It looks like the tuned pipe might prevent access to the shaft.

 

[RaCinJason399]

I have one of those pipe sets... i dont use it.. buy that header but a diff pipe.

 

[RobH]

the header is what mounts to the egine and thats the critical part? After that you have a piece of hose or something you attach to the actual muffler. I think that's the deal from the pictures I've seen.

 

[x_789]

You could toss in the nearest deep pool of water to cool it off .. Like a Great lake or a river or something...X

 

[RobH]

you have any experience with this one: ??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXVG89&P=V

made by duratrax so it can't be that great :x

 

[RaCinJason399]

Yeah i have that one its sittin in a drawer... along with my torque 12... thats a good setup for the torque 12, and 16.. but id go with what i have on my o.s. right now.. The Duratrax Big Tube Header and a at pipe.. then you will be rockin.

 

[M@xximillion]

Originally posted by mjime714


Question that I have and never really gotten a straight answer from my LHS or the yokomo board..

If the head cools the engine, does that really allow you to lean out more to compensate? I mean, temp is really just a means to get into the ballpark of a good tune, when in reality the perfect tune is the right amout of fuel for the right amount of air. An efficient head will mislead you into leaning out too much and vise versa for a small head. Am I correct?

Absolutely correct, Cooling heads IMHO are not a good idea. Engines are designed to work with their original cooling heads. You would want to learn how too tune you engines rather than compensate by changing dynamics.

 

[NCNitro]

I have to disagree with you Maxximillion. Then why would HPI change the head on their 15 fe from cast to billet? If it was designed to work best with their first head there would be no need to redesign it. IMHO in many cases is a cost issue, not a performance issue. My OS CVX .15 with that crappy little square head did NOT provide adequate cooling even with the body off. Once I replaced it with a Hardcore Racing Mutant head my engine ran much cooler and I was able to tune it for performance. With the square head it ran extremely hot unless I had it so rich it was spitting more fuel out the pipe than it was burning, and had no power. With the Mutant I have it running 220 - 240, nice stream of smoke, and plenty of power. Why does the CVX hyper have a billet head and not that crappy square head? Because it is a better head, thats why. Just because an engine comes with a certain head that does not make it better, or right. If that was the case you would never need to get different shocks, or tuned pipes, or headers, or any other after market part because what the manufacturer gave you was the best. I wish it worked that way but it does not. Just my .02 cents.

 

[x_789]

Originally posted by NCNitro
I have to disagree with you Maxximillion. Then why would HPI change the head on their 15 fe from cast to billet? If it was designed to work best with their first head there would be no need to redesign it. IMHO in many cases is a cost issue, not a performance issue. My OS CVX .15 with that crappy little square head did NOT provide adequate cooling even with the body off. Once I replaced it with a Hardcore Racing Mutant head my engine ran much cooler and I was able to tune it for performance. With the square head it ran extremely hot unless I had it so rich it was spitting more fuel out the pipe than it was burning, and had no power. With the Mutant I have it running 220 - 240, nice stream of smoke, and plenty of power. Why does the CVX hyper have a billet head and not that crappy square head? Because it is a better head, thats why. Just because an engine comes with a certain head that does not make it better, or right. If that was the case you would never need to get different shocks, or tuned pipes, or headers, or any other after market part because what the manufacturer gave you was the best. I wish it worked that way but it does not. Just my .02 cents.

DITTO man its all about price point not to mention this biz is driven by aftermarket products hence no copyrights on the parts ... The crappy head issue was shown prefectly by NC I can't elaborate any better....x

 

[mjime714]

Finally... Just what I wanted to hear... Thanks M@xx, NC and X!

Now this brings up another question, And sorry for jacking this thread, but I believe this does have something to do with your topic Rob.

Can a engine like to run hotter than the figures that are thrown around. 200-220 for .12, 230-260 for a .21... I helped a guy tune his .12 car and it ran like crap at 215-220, but when we got it to run where we felt it was running right, the temps were like in the 250's.

Why would a company that makes engines, make it so that the engine would not run at its best with the parts that it comes with. That is why I ask the question above. If an company that makes engines does not make an upgrade like a new head, why would they make it so that it runs crappy with what it has? Not to support other companies who do make aftermarket upgrades. Also, why would you get an engine that does not perform right out the box? As far as car kits, they are designed to perform right out the box, but just barely. The manufacturer of the kit wants you to buy their better upgraded parts.

 

[Rob D]

I also agree
Nc and X you can't tell me the pro scrap 15 head was the best...

Now where as Nc has had problems with his Os Square head i run the stock heads on both the losi and tmaxx 250 temp on losi and 265 on tmaxx.

Still might chage heads on tmaxx since it is a slower beast and i dont run it wide open as much as the losi

mjime714 yes it can run hotter than what the figures say to run the best thats why Os says tune for power not temps as long as most power isnt 290-300 degress in my book you should be ok

 

[mjime714]

Great topic, I'm learning a lot!

 

[NCNitro]

Rob D you bring up another good point. One mill is not going to perform the same in different vehicles. An OS with the square head might run at perfect temps and have good performance in a street car or losi as both those vehicles weigh only a fraction of what a T does. In those application the factory cooling head may be sufficient, however the stress a big heavy 4wd truck such as the T-Maxx is going to put much more stress on that same engine, causing it to run hotter. If by replacing the cooling head then tuning for performance will allow you to run at 220 - 240 where as the stock head will have you at 300 or more, than I feel it is a very good investment. What would you rather have, the same engine making the same power but with the better head running at 220-240 or that same engine at 300 or above? Which engine is going to last longer between rebuilds? I'll take the cooler engine anyday.

 

[mjime714]

Agreed! Nice NC!!