hoot
RCTalk Member
driving earthquake 3.5 today and for some reason every time i press the brakes not locking them up tapping them the motor dies
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earthquake 3.5 shuts off once brake is pressed
- Thread starter hoot
- Start date
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Could be a few things.
1) Idle screw is set too low and when you apply brake, it's actually snuffing out the engine.
2) Your clutch spring(s) have broken and are causing the clutch to drag constantly on the bell, so when the spur stops/slows down, so does the engine.
3) Your clutch bearings are shot and causing the same problem as #2.
The idle is easy to check. Without the truck running, take off the filter and neck, turn on the radio, look down the carb and apply the brake. If you see the slide in the carb move when you move the throttle on the remote from 'neutral' to brake, then turn your idle screw in until you get a 1mm gap or so when you apply the brake. Then adjust your remote/linkage so that at neutral, there is a bit of pressure pushing against the throttle holding it against the idle screw.
2 and 3 require the engine to be pulled and the bell to be taken off.
1) Idle screw is set too low and when you apply brake, it's actually snuffing out the engine.
2) Your clutch spring(s) have broken and are causing the clutch to drag constantly on the bell, so when the spur stops/slows down, so does the engine.
3) Your clutch bearings are shot and causing the same problem as #2.
The idle is easy to check. Without the truck running, take off the filter and neck, turn on the radio, look down the carb and apply the brake. If you see the slide in the carb move when you move the throttle on the remote from 'neutral' to brake, then turn your idle screw in until you get a 1mm gap or so when you apply the brake. Then adjust your remote/linkage so that at neutral, there is a bit of pressure pushing against the throttle holding it against the idle screw.
2 and 3 require the engine to be pulled and the bell to be taken off.
hoot
RCTalk Member
- Thread starter
- #3
got a new rear diff in that day and now my front diff is clicking when i press the brakes so when u aint got money like me you can't pay for stuff like this so i was wondering if it would be worth it to take the good running motor once i fix the brakes problem and put it in a better truck body and if so does anyone know what kind of truck it would fit in
PS: thanks olds97 i will take it apart tomarrow
PSS:could it have dirt in there causing it to rub when i press the brakes
PS: thanks olds97 i will take it apart tomarrow
PSS:could it have dirt in there causing it to rub when i press the brakes
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- Location
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Turn your throttle trim ALL THE WAY DOWN. Then, while holding the trigger in full brake, adjust the idle screw.
If you try to gently pry the ends of the shoes that don't have the post through them away from the center and they snap back via the springs, then it's not the clutch.
With your air filter and carb neck off the carb, press the slide of the carb with your finger into the carb until it stops. It should stop before the carb closes too far, like this:
Unless you have a rotary carb, then you twist the throttle arm, but the image is relatively similar and the result should be the same. Too small of a gap will allow it to die when the throttle is at neutral (when linkage and trim is set properly) and definitely when you apply brake.
This site will show you what a typical 3 shoe clutch looks like when assembled:
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/clutch/clutches-index.html
It also explains how to shim the bell properly near the the bottom of the page.
Click on the images to see them blown up.
With your air filter and carb neck off the carb, press the slide of the carb with your finger into the carb until it stops. It should stop before the carb closes too far, like this:
Unless you have a rotary carb, then you twist the throttle arm, but the image is relatively similar and the result should be the same. Too small of a gap will allow it to die when the throttle is at neutral (when linkage and trim is set properly) and definitely when you apply brake.
This site will show you what a typical 3 shoe clutch looks like when assembled:
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/clutch/clutches-index.html
It also explains how to shim the bell properly near the the bottom of the page.
Click on the images to see them blown up.
Last edited:
- Messages
- 35,104
- Reaction score
- 1,854
- Points
- 2,198
- Location
- In my recliner
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Flying
First things first. Have you checked and adjusted the throttle/brake? If not, you're just wasting time checking anything else.
Edited your post. Instead of useing "url", you use "img", you had [ url ] image link [/ url ].
As rolex said, check your linkage and idle setting. With that said, the shoes/spring look good. It's a simple continuous spring clutch that is fairly fool proof. If it was broke, the spring wouldn't be holding the shoes in nice and tight... and you would see the spring being broke.
As rolex said, check your linkage and idle setting. With that said, the shoes/spring look good. It's a simple continuous spring clutch that is fairly fool proof. If it was broke, the spring wouldn't be holding the shoes in nice and tight... and you would see the spring being broke.
